Finally got the bike running, but...

[cmattina1]

So, I ended up taking my bike to the shop, and I guess it wasn't starting because it had lost compression due to me over adjusting the valves... Which, i admit is embarassing. Regardless, the reason i was adjusting the valves and cam in the first place is still there: that damn rattle. So, when i went to pick the bike up, and started it, I told the guy, "it's still rattling". I was advised to come back and speak to the mechanic who worked on it, and he came and listened and hmm'd a bit... Anyways, I was kinda given, "thats the way these old bikes sound" reasoning. they admitted and confirmed it was coming from the valves, but, but still, why is it there?

Should I worry about it?

Pics to come.

 

[ann0yed]

This may not be related to your rattling noise but my motor noise was reduced dramatically when I properly adjusted my cam chain tensioner, which was way out of adjustment.

-j

 

[XSLeo]

As your mechanic says, that's the way they sound. A bit of valve noise is part of the charm. They have a taping noise. A rattle sounds more like cam chain.
I adjust mine while the bike is warmed up and idling. Remove the cap. watch the plunger it should move in and out about 1-2 mm. It should come out to even with the end of the adjuster. No movement is too tight. if it don't come out even too loose.
Leo

 

[sreimer]

Another possible reason for a rattling is the cam chain guide. When that breaks down and they will as these machines get older they make a lot of noise

 

[cmattina1]

Hmmm. All makes sense and could be possible. As for what leo was saying, i was under the impression that one is to remove the cap, get it to TDC, then adjust it so the plunger is even with the end of the hex. So, it should move 1-2mm out and 1-2mm in, so 4mm altogheter? Or, should it be 1mm out and 1mm in, with the even point being the middle?

 

[XSLeo]

With the engine stopped set the plunger flush. With it idling the plunger will move in and out.
The 1-2 mm is measured from flush with the adjuster. Well not exactly measured, just by eyeballing it.
The big thing is that it moves in and out some. With it on the out stroke coming flush with the end.
Often what the book says is a good starting point and is enough. Over the years owner/mechanics have found ways to improve over how the engineers did things.
Most engineers just work in a design lab somewhere and have little contact with the product after they are done with it.
Out in the real world things don't always work just as the engineers in thier labs figured they will.
Going by the book works. Often doing the adjustment at idle quiets the cam chain better than the static setting. After all it won't make any noise while stopped.
As the years of tinkering on these bikes or anything you will find easier, cheaper, more efficient ways of doing things. We all do. Those that work well we pass on those that don't we leave behind.
Leo

 

[cmattina1]

I totally assumed that mechanics know, but was just making sure. I guess I'll have to check that out tomorrow, so the plunger only goes as far as flush OUT, and 1-2 mm IN?

Regardless, with the charging problems I have no, this will have to wait. Checking the brushes tomorrow also...

OTHERWISE it runs great and is fun to ride...around the block, at least!