First XS650 Build, What to Look For

Also, in your last pic is the front pulley nut. How much torque is that supposed to get? My local shop said it didn't really matter and as long as you bend the washer tab securely, but I have a tough time torquing it at all since it spins.
 
Once you have the pins ground flush, you can tap a screwdriver between the outer plate and inner links then pry the plate off, or you can drive the ground pins and back plate out of the outside outer plate with a punch. Or use a combination of both - start the outer plate coming off by prying and finish by driving the pins the rest of the way out.
 
Yes, the master link has it's own pins. Just look at one, you'll see. It's made to slip through and join two inner links.

Yes, the front sprocket nut has a torque value, and it's very tight - 72-94 ft/lbs. You'll have to wait until the chain is on and the rear brake is hooked up. Then you put the bike in gear along with stepping on the rear brake while tightening the sprocket nut. That holds it from spinning.
 
Your master will have the pins, outer plate and clip.
What 5twins said, but with new chain I wouldn't think they would be super hard.
I tighten the nut to 87 ft lbs. Lock it place by chalking the chain and sprocket. Grizld1 uses a rag between, I use a plastic wedge and then locking the rear wheel with the adjusting nut.
It can't be too tight and do NOT depend on the lock tab to hold it.
 
Ok guys, got some more work done last night, didn't have time to get the chain on, but I did get the rear fender and sissy bar mounted up.

z3oqd7u.jpg


Dk2KwYE.jpg


Still fussing with a few other things as well. I'm worried that maybe something is wrong with the way my kickstarter shaft is installed because it seems that when I put the right side cover on it isn't sitting flush. I can't be 100% sure what's keeping it from seating all the way, are there any common issues that have caused this?
 
Alright guys, I think this is what I have been looking for to get my wiring straight.

https://www.delcity.net/store/ATC-&...p_kw=&mp_mt=&gclid=CP-xlajWss8CFQNZhgodVqAPTQ

This fuse block will let me create what I see in this picture below. One hot wire running from capacitor, through a 20 amp inline fuse, into the ignition, then into this block. From the block, I run a wire to each piece in the system and that's it. Right?

dq0Ob9v.jpg
 
Hey guys, going back to work on the bike this Wednesday and wanted to get a few things cleared up before I get there. Wiring I'm all set, I have that fuse block coming and the diagram above makes complete sense.

I'm getting a little held up with the right side cover. This is the best picture I have for the time being that shows the kickerstarter assembly which I believe is what the right side cover is pivoting on, preventing the case from sitting flush against the bottom end.

Dbvqfey.jpg


If anyone has had a similar issue, I'm wondering what you did to fix it. I found a thread on here about another user (also a 1976 owner) who was saying something about an extra washer, maybe that's the problem? In the photo below from a youtuber who demonstrates proper installation of the kickstarter, you can see that same c clip (with the two holes in it) and nothing in front of it. In my case, there is a washer in front of that clip, it was like that when I opened the motor, so I left it on. I haven't yet tried installing the hardware and tightening the case on, as I figured it out to sit flat without additional pressure if installed correctly.

https://www.google.com/search?q=xs6...=HbHyV7HTE8XNmwHY0qegDA#imgrc=UmE-8lM2XJ1iOM:

Also, as you can see in the picture the Jumpstreet mids I'm using may have some clearance issues. I think I can fix it by moving that tab (the one that holds the brake rod) counterclockwise so it sits further back on the controls. The problem I'm having is with the throw distance, I'm not able to get it to pull far enough to actuate the brake entirely. Maybe this can be solved with proper kinks made in the rod? I will continue to experiment and see what I can do.
 
Last edited:
There's also a hollow alignment dowel just below the kickstart shaft that can be difficult to line up, prevents the cover from fully seating. The kickstart spring shoves the shaft over a bit, misaligning the cover. The members here found that if you slip on the kickstart lever, and rotate it CCW while final fitting of the cover, the cover will shift and slip onto that alignment dowel...
 
Hey 5twins, took a look at post #8 and I don't believe it's that. We're talking about a milimeter or two off, whereas that boss would be pushing it out a lot more. I do remember your post being SUPER helpful when I was installing it too. Thank you!

2M, that's a trick I've not heard yet. I'll give that a shot tomorrow night and see if it gets it on there. Like I said, it's so minimal, the amount of play we're talking about, I wouldn't be surprised if that was the hangup.
 
Can you tell if the cover is being held out at the rear around the kicker or more towards the front? If it's towards the front, your oil pump gear in the cover may not be mating with the gear on the motor. You may need to spin it a little to a different spot so the teeth mesh.
 
That's a good question actually, and the answer is that it's more than likely the rear which has the holdup, as I'm able to rock the case to the front and back and make the ends meet but not both at once. However, to your point, does this gear need to be in place on the case? http://lauraszoo.com/yam650/images/xs650oilpump.JPG

I've removed that gear with the tach rod, but it sounds like I'll need to put it back in or I won't be pumping any oil.
 
Oh my, yes you need that gear, lol. You won't pump any oil without it. Another guy did that recently and burned up his whole top end.
 
Shit lol, I better go find where I put that piece then, do I need the piece that spins the tach drive too? Or can I just use a nut and lock washer since there's no tach.
 
You may need the smaller gear too, as a spacer to hold the large gear down in place.
 
Alright guys, another great night of progress. Got the wiring mainly in place, and boy is it ugly haha. Here's a few shots.

cF97KBS.jpg


05j51vS.jpg


8J6sgfp.jpg


I wired it using the diagram I posted above. As you can see it's running off an ON/OFF toggle that I've located within the rear motor mount.

A few things I noticed...
The wires on the PAMCO are so thin it's actually very surprising that it's made for a motorcycle. I will probably splice them into larger wires coming off the e advancer since my connectors don't work with wires than thin, also very worried that with their proximity to the engine, they will melt. I lost the screwdown pieces for my coil somehow, so I've gotta get new ones before I can actually wire those lines to the coil. Just need to find an appropriate brass nut.

The wiring is a bit difficult to hide being that there is nothing in the back end of the bike. I really wanted to do this without using a "fake" oil bag or something like it, but if the current setup looks unsafe or super shitty maybe it's worth finding some unique piece to hold it all. Also realizing that having amassed these parts over several months, I've paid zero attention to color and have quite the hodgepoge going on lol.

All that's left now is to wire in the headlight and taillight, so progress has been made and that's exciting, despite the visual flaws I see.

With regard to the right side cover, I found my oil pump gear so that's good news. What I can't find is that swirly gear that drives the tach, or the woodruff key that holds the drive gear in place. If anyone has either of these parts, I will buy them from you. I also realized that the old advance rod cylinder thing fits the oil pump gear with a perfect fit. If the swirly tach drive is only there as a spacer, I could trim down that advanced rod piece and use that as the spacer, but I would still need that woodruff key.
 
Back
Top