First XS650 Build, What to Look For

I think your 7.5 amp fuse is in wrong place. I put one of the 6 fuse box in mine. the fuse box gets its power from a main toggle switch so the 7.5 amp fuse goes up to my kill switch and back down to red wire (switched power) for the pamco. I can kill power to ignition from either the main toggle switch or kill switch. then out of the pamco wires the black goes to a main frame ground that is also directly connected to battery ground. All of my grounds are connected to a bolt that is also connected to the battery. then the red and green from pamco goes to input side of advance unit the black from advance unit also goes to that bolt on battery/frame ground negative. red and green go up to coil spade connects.
I may be wrong but where you have what looks to be a in line 7.5 amp fuse just protects the coil. mine protects the pamco and advance and coil.
And my bike is not stock and did not have a good place to put the blue box for the advance unit so I made an enclosure for my advance that goes around the large down tube.
http://www.xs650.com/threads/pamco-e-advance-mounting-enclosure.45105/
I think this link will show you what I mounted my advance in.
 
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Cruzin, is your bike running yet? I ask because I'm not sure it will the way you have it wired. The Pamco red is a "power in" not a "power out" wire. Connecting it alone to the coil won't power the coil. You need a switched power feed from the harness for that, and for the Pamco red as well.

As I mentioned, I'm not crazy about the idea of pulling power for the Pamco off the powered coil terminal and here's why - Pete likes to see the Pamco fused. I talked to him privately about this a couple years ago and he said what he really likes to see is the coil being fused. Apparently, if your coil shorts out, it can back-feed high voltage through the green wire and fry the Pamco. Fusing the Pamco alone won't stop this. Fusing the Pamco protects the "front side", where power is fed in. To protect the "back side" that connects to the coil, you need to fuse the coil. The way I see it (and maybe I'm wrong), if you power the Pamco off the powered coil terminal, now you have two paths (red and green wires) back into the Pamco instead of just one (green wire) if the coil melts down. Maybe it makes no difference. I suppose one high voltage back-feed would fry your Pamco just as good as two, lol. But, if you're wiring from scratch, how hard is it to put the Pamco and coil on separate feeds? Fuse the coil feed for sure, fuse the Pamco one too if you like.
 
5twins, you've mentioned this in one of my threads and I meant to follow up. I think I'm following but not positive. Are you saying to put a fuse on the green wire before it gets to the coil? Perhaps an inline fuse?
 
No, just fuse the coil. If it has a meltdown, that fuse should blow and that would protect the "back side" of the Pamco.

I have a Standard with just the one main 20A fuse. When I installed my Pamco years ago, that's all I had in there, the one 20A fuse protecting the whole bike. Then I heard Pete talking about fusing the Pamco. After talking to him, I installed a 7.5A fuse on the power feed to my coil. The 20A main fuse is still the only protection I have for the Pamco. I've toyed with the idea of adding a fuse block like the Specials have but it would involve a lot of wiring work. I've never had any major electrical problems or blew a fuse so I guess I'm content running around with just the one main fuse. Heck, all the Standard models ever made have been running around like that for 30+ years.
 
5twins said:
... put the Pamco and coil on separate feeds? Fuse the coil feed for sure, fuse the Pamco one too if you like.
Click to expand...

I totally agree with this.

In addition to the destructive fail scenario described by 5twins, the coil induces voltage spikes on its feedside, simply from its high current on/off action.

Sourcing the electronic ignition's power from a point closer to the power source will help isolate it from typical feedline ignition noise...
 
I didn't know about the coil voltage spikes. Obviously, that's another very good reason not to power the Pamco off the coil.
 
5t, ya it runs fine. I had to think about it. I may have got it wrong off the top of my head without looking at the diagram I used. I ran from my fuse block a 7.5 fuse to the kill switch then to coil and pamco . I used a schematic I got from wiring diagrams on this site. The diagram does not have the e advance unit drawn in but thats just hooking it in with the red and green wires and black to ground. sorry for any confusion.
 
650Skull said:
View media item 25396
Click to expand...

So does this diagram represent the fusing of the coil that 5twins was talking about? That 7.5amp fuse before the coil should protect it since it's between the power and the coil itself right? I won't be running a kill switch but the hot wire will come from the key, through the fuse, and then splits to both the e advancer red and the coil red.
 
Hey guys, was gone for a week in Italy but I'm home now and off to see the bike again for another night of work. Going to be putting the chain on, doing a few more welds and hopefully starting the wiring though I'm still not certain if my diagram is correct or not. With regard to the chain, I purchased this one from TC Bros.

http://www.tcbroschoppers.com/530-g...0-links.html?gclid=CN-dwKqgsM8CFYcmhgodldkJbg

It says that the chain comes with a master link so "cut to length and you are ready to go." I've never owned a chain drive bike before so this is all new to me. Do I just use an angle grinder to cut the links I don't need, and the master link will clip the remaining two ends together? Is there any procedure for getting the chain on? I could remove the alignment bolts on the axle and slide the rear wheel forward I suppose, then move it back once it's slipped on.

Any tips for this process would be greatly appreciated, as well as any confirmations about the wiring diagram I drew up.

Thanks!
 
Move the tire forward as much as possible .
Feed the chain over the rear sprocket and drive sprocket.
With both loose ends on the bottom pull as hard as you can to remove slack.
Mark the outer link that is matched to/ mates with the inner link.
Grind the pins flush with the outer plate with a bench grinder or side grinder.
Use a punch to remove the outer link you have ground down.
Insert your master and clip with the full rounded end of the towards the direction of chain travel.
 
If you want I can get pictures as I just did this last night and the loose bits are still laying round the shop.
 
This illustrates proper master link installation .....



A chain consists of inner and outer links. The master link is like a removable outer link. Therefore, your cut-to-length chain must have each end ending with an inner link. Also for this reason, you can't shorten a chain by just one link. You have to go in "twos", removing an inner and outer each time so you always end up with an inner on the end.
 
If I pull the loose ends tight with the wheel and axle as far forward in the axle plates as possible, wouldn't that make the chain too tight? I'm not sure how much slack I ought to have.

I do understand the idea of needing two "inner" links to bond together with the master link. Hopefully I can find a creative way to get it out after grinding the pins flush because I don't have a chain breaker.
 
Or 25 maybe.
This isn't to be taken as correct proportions. I just put together some stuff laying handy.
After fitting the chain and pulling as tightly as possible I get the inner links together. If the inner link is 1/4 inch away I go to the next where they will touch.
The clip is put on by fitting the closed end and one side of the open end in the slots. Then I pry the other open end over the pin. It is possible to fit the open ends to the side of the pin and then pinch it on with pliers but his spreads the open end too much in my mind pushing both ends over the pin. That is also how I refit the clip spring to the #4 starter gear. One side on the other pried over.
The picture shows the inner links together. The link I would remove and the master link with the clip ready to finish.
The last picture is of a master link clip installed with the closed end towards the direction of travel.
IMG_20160927_151722_113[1].jpg


IMG_20160927_151728_904[1].jpg


IMG_20160927_151737_393[1].jpg

IMG_20160927_151802_204[1].jpg
 
Unless you have bionic arms or something to pull the chain together I always end up with slack. I can't pull it tight enough to get all the slack out.
But you might check to see if anyone else has another/different way. Or has had the problem of it being to tight.
 
Thanks for posting this, I think I understand what you're saying now. Only thing I'm still confused about is where you get the pins to push through the two "inner links" that the master link and clip go on. In your first picture I see one exposed inner link facing a completed link. The inner link has no pin running through it anymore. Does that master link have it's own pins that you slip through there?
 

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