Fresh rebuild - no fun running

[XSLeo]

On a PMA system the reg/rec should be wired straight to the battery. Then from the Battery/PMA to the rest of bike. The way your first diagram shows.
With the PMA wired in after the fuse, as in others posted, if the fuse blows the battery gets eliminated from the PMA circuit. This unbalances this circuit and the reg goes wild and can send power surges into the system exceeding 20 volts. This happens because the power floing from the PMA bypasses the fuse. Not A good thing.
In your original diagram if the fuse blows all power stops flowing from the battery/PMA. This is a good thing.
Leo

 

[ChopperRobb]

Now im thoroughly confused...im not sure which of the many drawings i posted is considered the first one :/ i fucking hate wiring! And im lost again..

 

[XSLeo]

Post 27 was your first diagram you posted. It shows a wire from reg/rec to battery with a wire coming off that wire to the main fuse.
Leo

 

[ChopperRobb]

Gotcha...i just switched it. Now i have battery and regulator going to one side of the fuse together and the main kill on the other sending power to the other systems.

 

[ChopperRobb]

Like this now

 

[XSLeo]

Correct.
Leo

 

[ChopperRobb]

Yay! finally it’s possible i have a good solid working diagram to use...also making a ground harness (so to speak) so everything is grounded to one spot...i was told a particular bolt on the case and that all grounds should go there. So thats what im doing, lol

 

[ChopperRobb]

Thanx to all of you for helping out, i’d have been lost without the help. Now to get this puppy wired up and running right

 

[ChopperRobb]

So, no luck. I am totally lost, im sad and embarrassed to say. I can not get my bike running and im stuck. I dont think there is anyone local to hampton roads va that can help me figure out this bike and im even more sad just staring at it.

 

[peterg]

Send some photos of your connections so we can help you out. Have you done any continuity tests?

 

[ChopperRobb]

Holy crap, eureka...so this am i started eliminating all possibilities of problems. Toggles-gone, all wiring except ignition and regulator battery - gone, all fuses except 20a straight to 8a to ignition -gone. Checked all points of contact and got good 12.6 readings. Fired her up, and crap...checked my voltages again and had awful readings of less than a volt. Checked voltage at connection of battery to poistive/negative of bike then to 20a then to 8a then to ignition coils...all less than 1v fluctuating...then i realized it was my stupid jumper connections from battery to bike. Used a pair of auto jumper cables since that is all i had around and checked voltages at all points again and all had strong 12.6 readings. Fired her up and she ran really well. So now to slowly add the rest of the switches and fuses back one at a time and make sure i get good readings at everything and fire her up each time to make sure all is still well. Also ill check voltage at battery next i start her and make sure im getting better than 12.6 while she’s running. Im hoping it was my little jumpers the whole time.

 

[Paul Sutton]

When the bike is idling at approx 1200rpm you are likely to see a voltage of approx 13V at the battery and this should rise to about 14.2 - 14.7V when running at above 2000rpm.

 

[ChopperRobb]

I checked at the battery and am getting a steady reading around 14.2 but the idle was pretty high at the time...

 

[ChopperRobb]

So, I accidentally left a spark plug wire off one of the spark plugs and started the motor...im hoping i didnt fry the coil because of it not being attached to a plug. Is it an automatic instant fry the coil type thing or is it more like it can happen so dont chance it type of thing??

 

[figure8]

So, I accidentally left a spark plug wire off one of the spark plugs and started the motor...im hoping i didnt fry the coil because of it not being attached to a plug. Is it an automatic instant fry the coil type thing or is it more like it can happen so dont chance it type of thing??

You may have gotten lucky, but that could’ve fried the Pamco plate.

 

[ChopperRobb]

Whew...i think the pamco is good and coils are good...i timed it after the mishap and all seems good. It still advances to the advance mark and stays on the ‘fire’ mark during idle dodged a bullet there.

 

[ChopperRobb]

So here’s another question...for anyone using the 277 pamco/pma setup...in order to time my bike (have the timing mark line up with ‘fire’) my pamco is turned hard clockwise...is this within ‘normal’ range or does it indicate some type of problem (like cam and crank not synced, badly adjusted valves or something??)

 

[5twins]

Running out of timing plate adjustment on a normal 650 can be an indication of a stretched timing chain. I don't see why it would be any different on a re-phase. But if you just did a rebuild, you should have a new chain in there, right?

 

[ChopperRobb]

Yep, new chain :/

 

[ChopperRobb]

So i sent emails to Hugh and Pamco Pete asking if my timing plate is within normal range or if ive done something off...hopefully one of them will know or at least have an idea...we’ll see...