Front Fork Rebuild

BMell

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I am re building the front forks on my '79 and now that I have disassembled the forks but for some reason I can't get the fork seals out. I have read all kinds of how to articles but I can't find one that address this specifically. The Haynes Manuel that I just had to have doesn't ether. To all the guys that have done this, how do you get the seal out?

All so what grit of emery cloth do you polish the forks to get the blemishes off?

How do you reseat the seals after they are removed?
 
Welcome to the forums BMell. You have removed the clip(6) and washer(5) above the seal?
 

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All so what grit of emery cloth do you polish the forks to get the blemishes off?

Personally, I used "Blue Magic liquid metal polish" on my chrome and aluminium and it does an excellent job. It's non-abrasive so it could be used on plastic too. Here's a pic of the bottle if you want to try it. Mine is black instead of white but it's the same thing.

8ozliquidmetalpolish.png
 
Yes I have removed all the clips and washers, also removed the fork tube, but seal does not come out. Even with a strong hook I can't pull it out...is this normal?
 
Yes, the fork seals are very difficult to get out. I've done them a couple of times. I did not have a proper tool, so I ended up cutting through the metal in the seal. Last time, I used a dremel tool with a small grinding wheel to cut through the metal. Once they are cut through in one spot, they come right out. You have to be very careful not to damage the lower fork itself.

Here's a picture of a seal puller tool that is supposed to do the job. Available at automotive parts suppliers.
 

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There is some small pitting on the forks so i want to sand them out, does any know what grit emry cltoth to use?
 
There is some small pitting on the forks so i want to sand them out, does any know what grit emry cltoth to use?


On my fork tubes I used 1000 grit and wet sanded with WD40. I made sure I kept it wet at all times and it did very well on smoothing out the pitting. I couldn't even feel them when I ran my fingers over them.
 
Be careful if you get that pulling tool to protect the top the tube that it presses against for leverage. You'll dent it if you don't protect it (ask me how I know :D )
 
Any pitting is likely to ruin your fork seals, pitting is rust marks & like any rust will return unless removed completely and sealed to stop it rusting again. Difficult with a hard chromed stanchion.:( People have repaired these using epoxy glue as a filler but not sure how long it will last. Prob best just to buy new stanchions. MikesXS has them at $129 a pair :bike:
See here
 
I just got home and attemped to remove them. Thanks Travis for the heads up ( i learned it too) but i still cant get em out. I dont have dremel but i used a small saw blade and went at it with my hand (next time buy a blade holder) but yet again this bike build up is teaching me some things (the hard way). My wife just lost her job so the bike went for a budget build to used what ever is left over waa whaa:( oh well I will keep you guys posted on my progress once i remove the seals i am going to shave the front forks. Once again i dont know why i waited so long to join, cuz these people are the best!!!!!

oh and the WD40 and 1000 grit wet/dry paper was what i was thinking so thanks for letting me know it works
 
You can drive a screw into the seal and pull it out with pliers. You don't want to be in there with cutting tools - you want a good 'seal' between the fork lowers and the new seals.

Keep the old seals to drive the new ones in with too, or get a section of PVC pipe the right diameter and tap them in with a big rubber mallet.
 
I just did the seals on my 79 and got them out with a heal-toe pry bar. The one I used is about 16" long and I had to work the seal at 2 or 3 spots.
Walt
 
A tip I learnt from an old biker - when levering out old fork seals, attach a jubilee clip(hose clamp) around the outside of the fork casting level with the top. This prevents the aluminium cracking out or warping, BUT don't overtighten it!
 
A tip I learnt from an old biker - when levering out old fork seals, attach a jubilee clip(hose clamp) around the outside of the fork casting level with the top. This prevents the aluminium cracking out or warping, BUT don't overtighten it!

Good to know, I've done a little crack on one of my tube while changing the seals...
 
Any Issues taking pitted fork tubes for sandblasting?

More work than you want J. I went from 400-600-800 grit. Then put them on a buffing wheel. They were mirrors when I was done. Can't tell now, their all finger printed but, will polish up pretty easy.
 
More work than you want J. I went from 400-600-800 grit. Then put them on a buffing wheel. They were mirrors when I was done. Can't tell now, their all finger printed but, will polish up pretty easy.

Lol I figured. Since I was planning to use fork covers, they don't need to sparkle like diamonds in the sky :laugh: I'll try with the 400-600-800 grit wheel just to get rid of the pitting. I've bought new seals and don't want to mess them up. I didn't want to spend the 100+ for new tubes
 
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