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Front Wheel/disc free play?
- Thread starter prmurat
- Start date
jayel
#9 Guru 74 TX650A
xs2 has a floating disc setup I don't know much about it but someone will have a explanation
jayel
#9 Guru 74 TX650A
found this read parts news #329
http://thexscafedotcom.wordpress.com/2011/03/11/xs650-xs2-parts-news/
http://thexscafedotcom.wordpress.com/2011/03/11/xs650-xs2-parts-news/
DougXS2
XS650 Addict
- Messages
- 107
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yeah...the xs2 has some play. at least mine did too.
I asked around about this and was told that originally there was a 'damper' or spacer or shim in there? and you can see this if you go to a site that has an exploded parts view of the front wheel. cant recall what they call it but its in the picture.
I shimmed mine with a piece of fiberboard paper that I had ...which is basically like really tough, thin carbboard. not saying that's correct....just what I did. so don't take my word for it.
and not sure what would happen if you ran it with no shim? if anyone has any other experience with this let me know too.
I asked around about this and was told that originally there was a 'damper' or spacer or shim in there? and you can see this if you go to a site that has an exploded parts view of the front wheel. cant recall what they call it but its in the picture.
I shimmed mine with a piece of fiberboard paper that I had ...which is basically like really tough, thin carbboard. not saying that's correct....just what I did. so don't take my word for it.
and not sure what would happen if you ran it with no shim? if anyone has any other experience with this let me know too.
picker
XS650 Enthusiast
Yep...I have the same thing. Same amount of play. I am wondering if the 73-76 or any other year wheel or hub will fit my lowers, If not I will have to do some re engineering on this wheel.
Received an answer from Mike's: rubbers are not available anymore, fill the thing with silicone.... guess I will try to kave some rubber made...to be continued!
jayel
#9 Guru 74 TX650A
depending on the needed thickness of the rubber it would be easy to cut some out of a old tire, that would be my thought (member of the cheap bastards club)
yellowdog
yellowdog
Hi ,did you ever solve this problem?
Did you make some rubbers or fit a new wheel
Thanks
Did you make some rubbers or fit a new wheel
Thanks
DougXS2
XS650 Addict
- Messages
- 107
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kinda....
I ended up using silicone rubber sealant.
I coated the space with 'more than enough' silicone then reassembled.
it worked for awhile the first time. did it again and its still working.
I bet a nice couple of layers of teflon tape would work better. folded up maybe.
I ended up using silicone rubber sealant.
I coated the space with 'more than enough' silicone then reassembled.
it worked for awhile the first time. did it again and its still working.
I bet a nice couple of layers of teflon tape would work better. folded up maybe.
yellowdog
yellowdog
This is worrying me a little as I have got to this stage in my
rebuild,should I be worried ? Its hard to see how a thin strip of rubber
about 2mm thick can make a lot of difference.
By the way I need to replace the seals in the front caliper but I
cant seem to get them apart are they stuck together somehow
or is it just old age ( the calipers not me ) or may be second thoughts .........
rebuild,should I be worried ? Its hard to see how a thin strip of rubber
about 2mm thick can make a lot of difference.
By the way I need to replace the seals in the front caliper but I
cant seem to get them apart are they stuck together somehow
or is it just old age ( the calipers not me ) or may be second thoughts .........
Just the bolts and o-rings to seal. A member had a scathingly brilliant idea, bolt the halves back together but reversed so both pistons are exposed, then you can work them out with hydraulic pressure (or a grease gun if they are really stuck) stopping the one that frees up first with a c-clamp. be very careful if you use air pressure those pistons can become serious projectiles.
Check the bearing the rotor rides on, it can be bad also.
Check the bearing the rotor rides on, it can be bad also.
I think but I'm not sure but a 73 up wheel should bolt into the 72 forks. I think the only difference was the way the rotor mounts to the hub. I think the rotor offset for the caliper is the same.
Leo
Leo
73 wheel into 72 fork; The lower RH leg is different also, I have not tried to match them up but I'd be a bit leery. On the 72 the axle rides in a sleeve with a take up nut on that side.
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That's why I said I think. I don't have a 72 to experiment with. Perhaps some one who has both a 72 and a later bike can try swapping wheels and report back if it can be done.
In the parts fiche for the 72 it shows two ways the front wheels were made. The main one shows it with the 72 loose rotor, the small one shows it with the bolt on rotor. The 73 uses the same fiche. In 74 they show the bolt on only.
From comparing part #'s the axles are the same for both wheels, so either should fit the fork.
It may be as easy as just swapping the complete 72 wheel for a complete 73 up wheel.
Anyone game to try?
If it works then a lot of 72 owners might like to know.
In the fiches there does appear to be a difference in the fork lowers. On the 72 the lower is round. On the 74 it shows a flat spot above the axle hole on the right fork.
What year did they change from a steel fork lower to an aluminum lower? From lloking at the fiches the steel was used with the drum brake. The disc brake got the aluminum.
Leo
In the parts fiche for the 72 it shows two ways the front wheels were made. The main one shows it with the 72 loose rotor, the small one shows it with the bolt on rotor. The 73 uses the same fiche. In 74 they show the bolt on only.
From comparing part #'s the axles are the same for both wheels, so either should fit the fork.
It may be as easy as just swapping the complete 72 wheel for a complete 73 up wheel.
Anyone game to try?
If it works then a lot of 72 owners might like to know.
In the fiches there does appear to be a difference in the fork lowers. On the 72 the lower is round. On the 74 it shows a flat spot above the axle hole on the right fork.
What year did they change from a steel fork lower to an aluminum lower? From lloking at the fiches the steel was used with the drum brake. The disc brake got the aluminum.
Leo
I have all the parts to check this out, I'll try to get to it later today.
72 lowers are aluminum. MikesXS reports the calipers don't fit either but I think that is just a minor "change a mounting stud" deal.
I looked through the fiches too. The thing is you can't trust the 73 fiches very much, even the ones on the Yamaha site have some errors. Yes the 72 axle # is superceded to a newer number that is "probably" the universal XS650 front axle but again I don't completely trust Yamaha on this one, hold breath, stay tuned to this channel.
What is indisputable is that Yamaha changed this design after one year for good reason, among other issuess the parts count was very high on the 72.
If the bike may be a restoration someday having the "correct" brake will matter.
The thing is I don't think the issues are very big, make those rubber pads, possibly replace the bearing (standard parts house bearing is my guess) and set it up properly and it's good to go.
72 lowers are aluminum. MikesXS reports the calipers don't fit either but I think that is just a minor "change a mounting stud" deal.
I looked through the fiches too. The thing is you can't trust the 73 fiches very much, even the ones on the Yamaha site have some errors. Yes the 72 axle # is superceded to a newer number that is "probably" the universal XS650 front axle but again I don't completely trust Yamaha on this one, hold breath, stay tuned to this channel.
What is indisputable is that Yamaha changed this design after one year for good reason, among other issuess the parts count was very high on the 72.
If the bike may be a restoration someday having the "correct" brake will matter.
The thing is I don't think the issues are very big, make those rubber pads, possibly replace the bearing (standard parts house bearing is my guess) and set it up properly and it's good to go.
From looking at the fiches the take up nut and sleeve looks to be the adjuster for the disc brake rotor carrier. Or center section. This carrier has a bearing that rides on the sleeve the axle goes through.
If the wheel from a later bike fits, a bit of shimming on the rotor or caliper may be needed.
I think the change in fork lowers may have something to do with the later style rotors and being able to run a dual disc brake. The 72 wasn't set up that way, the 73 up were. The extra parts of the 72 ststem plus wanting to use a dual disc could be why they changed it. The later stuff was much simpler.
I agree that with good bearings and some make shift pads it will work fine. It will just reguire a bit more attention than the later wheels.
Leo
If the wheel from a later bike fits, a bit of shimming on the rotor or caliper may be needed.
I think the change in fork lowers may have something to do with the later style rotors and being able to run a dual disc brake. The 72 wasn't set up that way, the 73 up were. The extra parts of the 72 ststem plus wanting to use a dual disc could be why they changed it. The later stuff was much simpler.
I agree that with good bearings and some make shift pads it will work fine. It will just reguire a bit more attention than the later wheels.
Leo
