Help. Getting back on the road.

Kool thanks.
This is like my catch all post so I'm going to be looking for help and satisfying my curiosity.
One thing I would like to know..is why are so many motorcycles carbed for each cylinder. Like why not just do an intake manifold and one carburetor.
 
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More/better performance with a carb on each cylinder.
 
joebgd said:
One thing I would like to know..is why are so many motorcycles carbed for each cylinder. Like why not just do an intake manifold and one carburetor.
Click to expand...
Buyers demand it mostly, on a 360 degree twin there is little penalty for a single carb and maybe even some advantage of smoother flow, although separate straight intakes probably are good for flow also.
 
Got it running amazing. I don't remember what jets I have in there and I have the tube baffles out of the air boxes and I think xsjohn early p prototype needles, which is an honor. But I feel like it's one of the probably strongest otherwise stock engine out there. It's a beast. Brass sa bushings and tapered steering bearing. My opinion if your steering is not Sandy leave it alone. It was better before I did that. I'm going to try tightening it after inspection.
 
The left blinker is spots, something in switch, can I spray lube in the switch assembly?
 
pull the switch apart, a failed solder blob, easily resoldered, is common.
I used to have to go in and tighten tapered steering bearings several times, I have a home built bearing driver now and after cleaning the bores and races lightly greasing i don't stop driving til the tone changes. I still need to get in and snug up survivor's bearings (pre special driver install) one more time.
 
Oh okay sweet, that's probably it than cause I'm the only one I ever heard wish I kept original steering bearings.
 
Does anyone have a good leed on key blanks? I think I can get one made if I had the blank. I havnt really searched hardware stores I just remember years ago asking to get a key copied and the blank wasn't available. I can look at the stock in a few stores and see if there are any comparable.
 
I'm thinking there are 3 or 4 different blanks used on the XS650's left and right style for sure.
 
Would clutch slip be more in higher gears? I'm almost sure my clutch slips in the higher gears when I get on it. I'm ab to read up on worm gear adjustment. It might be a fuz tight.
 
Yes, the clutch is more prone to slipping in the higher gears at higher speeds and RPMs. There's more strain on it under those conditions. The usual "fix" is heavy duty aftermarket clutch springs, about $10 to $15 a set .....

https://www.ebay.com/itm/EBC-CSK-Cl...201818&hash=item4d6bdfa182:g:vZMAAOSw2tFaXgSY

As far as key blanks go, your 1980 model is right around the time Yamaha changed from a 4 number key code to a letter and 5 numbers. If you can find that code number on one of the locks, that will tell you which blank you need, as per these old Yamaha tech bulletins .....

3PL6T02.png


rvaxJhS.jpg


If you can determine the Yamaha key blank number, I can probably tell you it's aftermarket equivalent, maybe even supply you with a blank or two.
 
Oh wow, that's good info. I think the key or the seat lock or ignition have a # on it. Ill check it out later.
 
Is the lock nut on the worm gear adjuster reverse thread? It's not moving. I feel it flexing something and of course I don't want to break it. I was using a 12 socket. Next thing I'm going to try is use an open end and hold the Philips while I turn the nut.
 
The earlier locks with the 4 number code usually have that number stamped on the lock face next to the key slot like so .....

oYSe2qY.png


Later locks with the letter-5 number code aren't stamped on the lock face. That could have been a security thing or maybe simply because the longer code wouldn't fit on the face. The code was moved inside the lock or in the case of the ignition, a sticker was applied to the bottom .....

edwSjrp.jpg
 
The worm gear lock nut is a normal thread but is often stuck. The nut and adjuster screw are just plain steel and tend to rust together. Do you have a drywall screwgun? If you can get a socket holder for it, often it's minor impacting action is enough to break the nut free. On really stuck ones, you may have to remove the male worm part and clamp it in a vice.

Once off, anti-seize the threads on the screw so the nut won't rust on there again. Also, when installing, don't tighten the nut down really tight. It doesn't need to be too much tighter than just past snug.
 
Okay, its stamped on the ignition key cylinder not on the seat latch like your photo.
It's an 80sg special with fork lock and the seat latch has a helmet lock also like your pic. The ignition cylinder is stamped, 3295.
 
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OK, according to the chart above, that lock number would use a #1214 Yamaha key blank. My bike happens to use the same one and it cross-references to an aftermarket Ilco/Silca X118 or YH49. See if you can locate one of those locally. If not, they're readily available on-line, like from eBay .....

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fr...8+key+blank.TRS0&_nkw=x118+key+blank&_sacat=0

You can probably still buy the blank from Yamaha too but they cost $10 to $12 from them now.

Here's another chart I put together showing the key styles used and the aftermarket numbers for them .....

VQvfXxv.jpg
 
I noticed when i turn my keys past fork lock the break light comes on. Is that just a "okay you've gone far enough" light?
 

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