Heritage apecial conversion

fossilrider

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Hey guys,more questions for "those in the know".I have made some headway on my conversion of the '82 Heritage Special into something a little less Harley-esque.Now I have a few small items I need input on.First,I'm looking for a set of low bars that I can fit all the switchgear,grips etc. on between the end and the bend.I have a nice set of "W" bars that would work if it weren't for the clutch safety switch being in the way when I try to slide the perch up far enough to get the grip on.The safety switch wire that sticks out of the clutch perch hits the left light switch housing.Next,the seat latch on the '80 special seat that I got off ebay unlatches the right side but not the left.It seems that when I pull the lever,the right side disengages allowing that side to rise up before the left side unlatches.Then there is the front brake light switch.I would like to install a single line from the master cylinder to the caliper and do away with the junction block,but what do I do for a switch for the front brake light? Thanks for any help.Steve
 
Most any of the bars the standards used will hold everything just fine.
The clutch switch shouldn't hit the switch if the switch housings angled edge is positioned right. You can unplug the switch from the lever perch and put in a jumper wire and tuck it up in the headlight bucket. The po did on my 81.
On the front brake switch it should be in the housing by the lever.
On the seat the part that actually goes into the catch may be bent or the seat pan where that part bolts on may be bent.
Leo
 
Sorry to be so late replying.I have had trouble finding this thread since I thought I posted it on the forum under "frame" and it somehow ended up elsewhere.Now the only way I could get back to check for replies is to search for the title (which I didn't realize I had misspelled).Being a fan of several different marques,I visit a few different sites/forums and am always at a loss as to why they are so different to navigate around.Since I am really quite computer illiterate,it seems to take me forever to figure each one out. But thanks for the input guys.I am making headway and wish now that I had taken pics before I started,showing how bad (cosmetically) this bike was.I have found a set of Super Bike bars which I can get for $10 from a friend and don't know the difference in them and a the Euros.Must be the bend since the rise and pull back on the ones I have found on the internet are basically the same.The seat latch mechanism,I found,is evidently bent since the two little hooks are not aligned,so I am working on that.I have polished all the aluminum engine parts,put a SS bolt kit on,am changing the oil/filters,getting the carbs back any day to reinstall and am waiting on shorter cables for the lower bars.I have also installed a set of smaller turn signals and a Lucas style tail light.Right now I am just trying to get it rideable and in some less-obnoxious configuration than the stock Heritage Special (sorry guys who have/like that style,it's just not me).Eventually,I would like an even more standard style with 18"/19" aluminum wheels and a flatter seat (something between a standard and a cafe racer).I might eliminate the side reflectors soon also.I don't want to "hack" this bike because these things are now getting unbelieveably hard to find that are even close to stock.Anyway,I will get some pics soon and post them.Later,Steve

Posted via Mobile
 
Easy way to find your post.

Right click on your name, open link in new tab.

Profile come up, then click on statistics.
 
I think the super bike bar is a single bend the euro has a double bend or the bend are just a bit more well bent. They both work fine the euro might be a little easier on your wrists.

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I had the super bike bar on my heritage and it tweaked my wrists just a bit. But they have been through hell and back over the years.
 
The difference between the two bends is slight and, yes, it has to do with the grip ends. They droop down a bit more on the Euro bars and this turns your wrists to a more natural position. I had a set of superbike bars for years. I would put them on pretty much any new bike I got to get low bars on there but only for a short time until I could acquire some Euro bars. I finally sold the darn things for, you guessed it, $10. Must be the going price for those things, lol. Can't say I miss them, can't say I miss them at all. Now a fresh set of Euro bars hangs in my shed awaiting whatever comes along next. They will be promptly replaced once installed on something.

Yes, just adding low bars pretty much transforms the Special and makes it almost like a normal bike. That 18" rear wheel will help as well, quickening the steering and most likely improving it's cornering manners. There's really nothing wrong with the Specials that a few minor changes and tweaks can't fix.
 
.Next,the seat latch on the '80 special seat that I got off ebay unlatches the right side but not the left.It seems that when I pull the lever,the right side disengages allowing that side to rise up before the left side unlatches..Steve

Have the same issue with my 80 and 83. Hard to describe because i do it without thinking,

From the left side, I lay my left for-arm on the seat holding onto the rear, Lean over and as i pull the latch lever i push down with my arm and pull the seat forward and up.
 
Try putting an 1/8" gasket between the seat and the hooks.
It helped my special standard.
 
Mike's XS #68-6906 is a possible replacement for stock seat. Virago 535 front reflectors with very little modification will bolt right onto to your 650 fender mounts, if you want to preserve that function while removing the stock ones from the frame downtubes. :bike:
 

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Thanks guys,I'll try the seat fix.I have always been able to get the seat off albeit with a lot of swearing.Also I didn't know about the reflecors from Mike's,though I'm not really a fan of any side reflectors.I know there is the outside chance that it might help someone see you,but I just hate do-dads hanging all over a bike.I kinda figure the reflectors have to have a light shining on them to do their job and most likely if there is a headlight snining on them,the driver SHOULD see you and the bike (I know,occasionally they still don't).Started to remove the mufflers from the headpipes today and see if one of the sets of mufflers I have will fit,but don't see how they are clamped to the headpipes.? It appears there is a sleeve over the connection.? I didn't spend that much time on it as I had other stuff going on.I'll look closer tomorrow.Still undecided about the bars.My carbs are ready to be picked up but before I can install them there is one little issue that the guy who rebuilt them didn't know how to fix.The connecting tube between the two carbs leaks and the part is discontinued.I noticed a set on ebay that apparently had been tapped and a threaded elbow installed in each carb.Has anyone here tried this fix or is there a better way to solve this problem?Steve

Posted via Mobile
 
The fuel "T" needs to be installed so it is snug between the carbs and will not easily rotate by hand. This is what seals it, the pressure of the carbs pushing against it. To achieve that, you need to loosen the fasteners in the top and bottom brackets that tie the carbs together, apply a clamp of some sort (just enough to tighten the "T" so it won't turn), then tighten the bracket screws .....

Fuel-T-Install.jpg
 
More thanks for more good info_Of course,this often brings on more questions.Such as,my carb only has the angle iron brace between the two carbs,should it have the "butterfly" brace on the top or another where there are two holes on a flat boss on each carb? I did do a search on the forum and saw the fix someone did by useing some neoprene tubing to replace the stock rubber "bushings" on the ends of the "T".Looks like a very good fix.I also found the choke rod fix useing the spring and ball from a zerk fitting.Something else I love about a site like this,so many of the guys make Mcgyver look like a school kid.I guess,as I get older,I am getting a lot more like my dad.He believed everything should be repairable,not disposable.You use it,fix it,and use it some more.And,if you have that mind set,these forums are a wonderful tool.I am taking all this great info and making headway with my project.Thanks again Guys.I will post some pics soon.Steve

Posted via Mobile
 
Yes, your carb set should have a top butterfly shaped bracket. It needs it more so than some of the older sets because of the need to hold that fuel "T" tight .....

34AlloyTops.jpg


The castings on the rear above the bell mouths were not used on the 650 BS34s. That doesn't mean you couldn't, though. It would probably be easier for you to fab up a flat bar for across there than make a butterfly shaped top plate .....

34AlloyTops2.jpg


Then there's always the classified section here. Maybe someone has a top plate from a junk set of carbs they'll sell you.
 
Thanks for the reply.Pics are always great.I'm always fabricating something,so the "butterfly" brace should be no problem.It also appears that it might be in the way less than the flat bar would be.?My carbs have the stamped sheet metal tops instead of the aluminum.When did this change?Were the tops the only difference or were they totally different carbs?Steve

Posted via Mobile
 
The "tin tops" came on 34's. The aluminum on 38's
But they can be swapped so that isn't "proof positive".
5twins likes the look of the aluminum better as the picture shows.
 
I seem to remember someone offering brass "butterflies" for sale, probably on eBay. Shouldn't be too hard to find someone here on the forum with a spare stock one.
 
Be aware that the BS38 aluminum tops don't fit the BS34s. The ones in my pics came from XS750 triple carbs. Others that work (that I know of, probably more) are XS400 and GS400-425-450 Suzuki tops.
 
Mike's XS #68-6906 is a possible replacement for stock seat. Virago 535 front reflectors with very little modification will bolt right onto to your 650 fender mounts, if you want to preserve that function while removing the stock ones from the frame downtubes. :bike:

love that seat Aldo.:thumbsup:

Is it a straight replacement for the original with no mods required ?
Would love to see some more images of it if you have any. Its the most sexy seat I've seen yet.:bike:
 
It's a "drop-in" replacement with no mod required & has the same type of document holder underneath as the OEM Special seat. Here's some more pic's, 2 of my bike and 4 of others' bikes. I find this a very comfortable seat. It eliminates the ability to carry a passenger - you can remove the rear footpegs.
 

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