hooking up engine on the stand for testing??

Equalizer

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I've been looking and can't find anything on setting up an engine on a stand for testing. I'd like to do something like Hughs Hand Built test stand.
I need help with what all is needed to hook it up and make it run.
Thanks and sorry if this has been covered before.
 
To hold the engine, if you can weld, and have a welder, go to a scrap yard and get tubing, weld er up.
Search for 'some wiring diagrams'. And there you go
 
G/Day Equalizer.
Just my 2cents worth, if it's a newly rebuilt engine it'll generate a lot of heat quite quickly, so think about a cooling fan of some kind to keep the beast cool then you'll have longer to set up carbs and the like. I know they run hot but lets try to look after them as best we can. Try to picture in your mind what they do on a Dyno as far as cooling and exhausts are concerned.
 
Downeaster
Thats exactly what I'm wanting. I'll try to study your pic a bit more. Is there a simple hack wiring scheme to get one running on the stand.
Thanks guys.
 
Hi Solo: Your advice is right on point, although not nuanced, except for those of us who in winter have a warm space to build and an outdoor unheated garage to install.
 
I agree. I just want to play around with tuning on a spare motor in the garage over the winter.
What do I need from the stock stuff to chop a harness to make it work.
 
I took the easy way out: I grabbed the entire wiring harness from the same parts bike the engine came from.

Which specific parts you need depends on which engine you're running.

Points, TCI, PAMCO or other aftermarket ignition all require slightly different components.

Edit to add: Notice there was a box fan right behind me in front of an open window to help with engine cooling.
 
I'm using something similar to one of Hughs stands that I've seen. It's almost done. I've always wanted to do something like this. I just now got around to doing it.
Sorry that the pic is side ways.
 

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I have a different complete engine that I'm going to use for this project.
I believe it's a 79' engine but I'll have to check to be sure.
DownEaster I might just pick your brain some if your up for helping someone that's a little slow when it comes to the electronics.
I'll get a pic of what type of ignition I have shortly. Sounds like that will help out. I still have all the components from the donor bike as well.
 
I'll have to meditate on it for a bit to come up with the minimum to make it run. Coils and a battery, obviously.

Couple of questions come to me tho.

1. Are you going to use electric start? That'll add a couple of components.

2. I'm not sure it's a good idea to run it with the alternator wiring harness just hanging in the breeze. I don't think it'll damage the alternator, but I don't know that for sure. A "total loss" system (not bothering with the charging system topping off the battery) is the simplest but can affect running if battery voltage is allowed to drop too much. These bikes NEED full rated battery voltage to run properly.

3. Running open headers really throws off the tune, especially the carburetion/jetting. I just wanted to be sure my engine was back together right and would run, I wasn't trying to "tune" it.

4. Solo, while perhaps a bit blunt, is right: No point in "tuning" it without a load on it. For anything you do on a test stand to mean anything, you need to have the exhaust and intake system (stock airbox, pods, whatever...) in place and have a representative load on the engine.

Still, I'm happy to work up the minimums to get it to run on a stand if that's what you want.
 
I will be doing it with a starter if possible. I still want to do this even if it's of no big use. I believe it will be beneficial to me.
 
I think you are asking how its hooked up?
OK here is what is done in my video.
First I always have spare harness that I cut up with just the plugs for ALT/TCI/COIL/REG-REC. This setup was with a 1981 TCI and if you don't have a harness you can buy one from TC Brothers and that's all you need to fire up bike. When I build motors for sale I bench test them and put hours on them before they leave so I have a setup I keep on the side (alt/tci/coil)
You really don't even need the reg/rec hooked up but I did it to test ALT for sale so it does more than one thing.
If you have a spare harness for a TCI setup just cut it up but first plug in the ALT/TCI/reg-rec/Coil plugs and after you are done you will end up with a BLACK (ground)RED (12 volts) BLUE (neutral light) BROWN (12 volts to key on) NOW you have a stand alone wire harness for CHARGING and IGNITION
Now you need a battery and a toggle switch for OFF/ON so you can kill it. If you want to test starter just tap the heavy black wire onto the positive side of battery and starter will spin . If you are making it with a switch for starter just use a starter relay in between and that will work but really not needed for testing.
If you just follow the diagram for TCI that's all you need to fire up. If it was a PAMCO or POINTS motor all you need is 12 volts to unit and it will fire. I have a spare BOYER and I use that also but TCI setup is faster and the easy way to go for testing.
If you need personal help you can contact me at DADDYGCYCLES@YAHOO.COM
I had bought a simple rolling cart and put a TC Brothers motor stand on it and mounted the TCI/COIL/REG-REC/COIL and gas bottle and just use that also as a test cart. This way I just roll it out of garage and let motor run . If you are going to run more that 5 mins its good to have fan running on motor to keep cool.
Hope this helped a little.
Rich
 

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I'm trying to sell an engine that I have sitting in my garage. It has no ignition as of now but I've got a spare set of points that I could put in it. Is all I need 12v to the ignition and gas to the carbs to test the engine to make sure it runs?
 
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