hot wire

in the headlight nacelle or under the tank? Under the tank, the red/whites going to the coils to power, and you're good to go. I think it's the same in the headlight nacelle.

Edit: warning: you won't be able; to shut the bike off if you do the under the tank method. pretty sure the red/white in the nacelle goes to the kill switch.
 
So I just got to touch the red an d white together. I'm just going to run a gas tube up the frame so it will probably run out before I need to shut it down. I just want to see if it turns over/ will run. So I can take it apart and ditch the stuff I don't need. I'm running out of room fast in the garage. Thanks sundie I test the theory tomorrow!
 
Is it just me or would it not ake more sense to just unplug the ign switch and jumper the red to brown and red to blue? That would basically give you your ign "on".

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I ditched my key long ago.. I have a "hidden" toggle that supplies my power to the coil. this runs through the kill switch, so I can shut the bike off at any time.
 
BUMP

I am dealing with this same issue out in the garage... Tryna get it started to see what she will do before i go investing all my time'n'money...

This is what I have going :

Jumper cables on the starter solonoid -- its turning over nicely.

A red and white wire under the tank I have spliced a 12v jump into.

I yanked the ignition, and its just sticking out like a bad hair day...

Additionally, I have spark at the points, but none at the plug.

Help ?

((sorry idk why my pics are upside down))
 

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I assume your 2nd pic is the wires that were connected to the ignition switch? I would try connecting your 12v power to the double brown in that bunch of wires. That will run power through your kill switch and to both coils. It will also allow you to cut power to the coils using the kill switch. You don't want your coils wired up "hot" and "on" with the engine not running for an extended period of time. They can overheat and burn out.
 
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