I "kinda" thought that, and in the back of my mind remembering someone actually checked?
Glad it was you Gary.
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Could this make the bike run hot?
- Thread starter Tully
- Start date
Glad it was you Gary.
I
had an old L-16 Datsun make me look stupid (not that hard anyway) on that exact thing.
Yes. I am glad. How does this affect the principle, my friend? While motor rolls how do you listen to the leaks? I do appreciate all your help though. Best!
Before you call it a bad head gasket, get a good compression tester and see what that is.
If you sprayed something and revs increased, it's prolly an intake leak
This is the other motor. Kick not electric start was 120 per side after I retorqued head. But it wasnt the fastests kicks. Put in new plugs moved needles back down as it would not idle. 2 clicks from the bottom. Bike started ran. Idled fine. went about 100 yards and bike backfired a few time jerked died. Cant even try to kick keeps back firing like a shot gun. Done for the night. What a nightmare.
When to check timing chain amd valve adjustment. All seemed good. To spec. When I went to to check timing static timing the light turns on way out of time on both sides of the the bike. And the light stays on for a long period of time. I am not sure how the hell that happens?
Well i figured out how part of it happens. Big nut on right side of head came loose pin fell out knocked timing out. Reinstalled pin and nut tightened more this time left cylinder is timed right but light stays on doesnt shut off left side stays on constantly when trying to static time. Bike doesnt run. Gremlins and more gremlins!!
Brand new points. Just installed. Will regap and adjust accordingly.
Could the engine have spun fast enough to move the point after the pin fell out?
As long as the points set mounting screw was tight, I don't think so. Each points set mounts with one screw. The post that the moving half of the points rotates on sticks out of the back of the bracket a little bit. You fit that into a hole on the points plate. This allows the points set to be rotated when you loosen it's mounting screw. You rotate it towards or closer to the points cam to increase the gap, away from the cam to make it smaller. It sounds like your points set is rotated in too close to the points cam and is never fully closing.
Light never shuts off ever
Power always finds the easiest path to ground. With the points open the only the only path to ground is through the light, turning it on.
When the points close, that's the easiest path to ground... power goes that way and not through the light.
To simplify:
Light ON= points open.
Light OFF= points closed.
If you used an oily feeler gauge when you set the points gap, you may have contaminated the points faces so even when they close, they aren't making contact. Try cleaning them to see if that helps. Cut 1/4" wide strips from a business card, spray with electrical contact cleaner, and drag them through the points like a feeler gauge. You will probably need to pry the points open a little with your finger or the wet paper "feeler gauge" will just tear.
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Odd possibility #2: the test light is not a traditional test light, but a continuity light (has it's own battery) and lights-up when the points are grounded. If so, back to wire position or the little bolt is grounding on the base inside the hole (it happens)
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last evening I took point plate off off bike. Unwired coils and points. Rewired all back together. Than was able to static time the bike. Seems to run good. No road test rained and small fender on front none and back make for a dirty ride. Will take back out this evening. Test light is just a 12 volt bulb I wired to gator clips too.
