Could this make the bike run hot?

[Kevin Werner]

I also have the jet kit from mikesxs in the carbs. I am running at this time the biggest main and idle jet they had in the kit.

What year are the carbs? What size are the jets you used? Black plugs suggest way rich mixture. See in the chart below that there are many variations over the years. Each jet combo works pretty well. Richening more than a step or two on a stockish motor will cause problems.

 

[Tully]

This is the kit purchased and because I ran pod filters and straight pipes I used the biggest main and the biggest pilot. I was also chasing a heat problem. the 34s Im running were set to correct height for the brass floats. I believe 27mms.

 

[Wingedwheel]

I dont have any room for a battery. Would this need a battery?

On my Bobber I ran a small AGM battery that was about the size of a cigarette pack. Plenty of power for a kickstart. Just don’t leave your headlight on……

 

[jpdevol]

I will switch wires and see what come of it. The carbs never skipped a beat with other ignition but I did change out the needles back to original needles. Ill be back.

There's your problem: the "Dynotune" kit with the 145mains has to use the Kit needle or it's way too rich with a stock needle.

Left to right: Dynotune, stock, 51X11

Also, did you get the carbs synched?

 

[Tully]

Sorry all I did run the needles to the kit. I replaced back to needle from kit when I synched carbs

 

[5twins]

Then I would lean them a step or two (move the e-clip up). If that doesn't work (improve plug color) then I'd say you need smaller mains. #145's are pretty big. The biggest I can run in my BS34's with the stock needle are #137.5's. I tried #140's but got upper midrange break-up under heavy throttle applications. That's an indication that you're too rich. If the stock needle was adjustable, you would lean it a step to "fix" the break-up, but it's not.

 

[40north]

I tend to agree about the mixture...but let us also assume more than one problem may exist at one time.

Hint about check compression. Make/buy fixture to apply compressed air through spark plug hole...they make kits for this. Use also a regulator, at BDC on a powerstroke in the cycle add air pressure and note the blowby coming from the dip stick hole...you unscrewed that first, right? Then try the other side same same. Obviously the blow may also be from valves... or whatever. Be systematic. Take notes. Never mind kicking the engine... Against the possibility of a leaky intake...you probably ought to open the throttles a bit too. Smoke check cigarette flow check feather... Ought not to have much blow... symmetry is important too, gives qualitative left right condition.

 

[Jim]

...they make kits for this. Use also a regulator, at BDC on a powerstroke in the cycle add air pressure and note the blowby coming from the dip stick hole...

BDC on the power stroke has the exhaust valve open. Not much in the way of compression there. ...

Differential compression tests are done TDC after the compression stroke.

 

[Tully]

BDC on the power stroke has the exhaust valve open. Not much in the way of compression there. ...

Differential compression tests are done TDC after the compression stroke.

I am also going to buy new plugs today. Is there a certain plug I should buy? Factory 77 points and coil.

 

[jpdevol]

Is there a certain plug I should buy

NGK BP7ES will be fine. As 5twins suggested; try Dynotune needle with clip in top notch and fuel screws about 1.5 turns out. I'd also test the diaphragm slides to make sure they take ~14sec to drop from full open with the oval air port covered with your thumb.

 

[jpdevol]

The BS34's are good carbs, but they do have some critical peculiarities: they require a rubber plug in-place over the pilot jet nozzle, a correct brass washer under the main jet and the nylon spacer under the needle clip. The chokes have to seat & seal properly or it messes with the slide (diaphragm test will show that issue). Doesn't take much to mess them up

 

[Tully]

The BS34's are good carbs, but they do have some critical peculiarities: they require a rubber plug in-place over the pilot jet nozzle, a correct brass washer under the main jet and the nylon spacer under the needle clip. The chokes have to seat & seal properly or it messes with the slide (diaphragm test will show that issue). Doesn't take much to mess them up
View attachment 246030
View attachment 246031

Everything in pis what I have. I will try those changes.

 

[40north]

BDC on the power stroke has the exhaust valve open. Not much in the way of compression there. ...

Differential compression tests are done TDC after the compression stroke.

ok, I am at your service. Nevertheless, as detail may vary, the principle remains...yer never gunna get honest comps from a kicker, and the leaks can be nice to know about...

 

[Tully]

ok, I am at your service. Nevertheless, as detail may vary, the principle remains...yer never gunna get honest comps from a kicker, and the leaks can be nice to know about...

I can run my starter off a battery anf some cables.

 

[Tully]

The specs I read having brass floats at 27mm seem like there would need to be a bit of fuel in bowls to shut off the gas flow. If I remember correctly?

 

[Jim]

I can run my starter off a battery anf some cables.

If I had to guess, I'd say compression reading's between kick and electric would be pretty close.... prolly within 5-10% of each other.
Done properly with the kicker will work just fine.

 

[Tully]

If I had to guess, I'd say compression reading's between kick and electric would be pretty close.... prolly within 5-10% of each other.
Done properly with the kicker will work just fine.

Bad head gasket guys. Or need to retorque. Spray around head with something I probably shouldnt have. Bike RPMs went high.

 

[gggGary]

DID electric/kick compression comparison testing on an XS650 motor
With enough kicks I could get a higher reading from the kick starter.
Prolly makes sense cuz you time you leg effort to give maximum umph through the compression stroke, while the electric start has X # of watts of power and it's applied equally through all 4 strokes, it's lowest speed will be at the end of the compression stroke.

 

[Tully]

DID electric/kick compression comparison testing on an XS650 motor
With enough kicks I could get a higher reading from the kick starter.
Prolly makes sense cuz you time you leg effort to give maximum umph through the compression stroke, while the electric start has X # of watts of power and it's applied equally through all 4 strokes, it's lowest speed will be at the end of the compression Retorqued head bike wont barely run at all now. Misses spits backfires. Did the needle change and wont run.

 

[jpdevol]

You gonna try the other motor?