Brennecke
Cellar Rat
I have a leak that appears to be around the front sprocket (chain flings oil). I have searched, but not found an answer, and a manual is on its way. How to I snug this up properly?
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How to tighten drive sprocket?
- Thread starter Brennecke
- Start date
I think it's a 36mm socket. If you have non-spoke wheels, put a wrench or piece of wood through the wheel and against the swing arm to block the wheel from turning. Avoid the air valve! Blue locktite (in combination with the lock tab) will keep the nut from coming off, or at least from coming off sooner 
It won't keep it tight though. With spoke wheels somebody could probably stand on the brake. With the nut tight, the leak should stop. I have to tighten mine periodically. It's a pain because I have to clean the old locktite off and then clean all the oil off for the new locktite.
It won't keep it tight though. With spoke wheels somebody could probably stand on the brake. With the nut tight, the leak should stop. I have to tighten mine periodically. It's a pain because I have to clean the old locktite off and then clean all the oil off for the new locktite.C-Los SD
XS650 Addict
If you have an oil leak, it may be the oil seal behind the sprocket or the clutch push rod seal.
You don't even have to stand on the brake.
The adjuster nut will lock it down. If you are working by yourself.
The adjuster nut will lock it down. If you are working by yourself.
Brennecke
Cellar Rat
The nut I am looking at is definitely not 36mm. Can anybody link to a picture of what I am looking for? I see a bolt with a phillips cut into the end and a nut on that. Is the nut I am looking for behind that?
1974jh5
Curmudgeon.
Hmmm? Sounds like you are describing the clutch adjuster?
Countershaft sprocket:
That's the clutch pushrod just ahead of it and the shift shaft just below. You have to remove the left side cover to see all this.
Clutch adjuster:
That's under the small chrome cover that snaps into the left side cover.
There's three seals back in there: the clutch pushrod seal, the countershaft seal and the shifter shaft seal. The clutch pushrod seal is generally the one that leaks the worst, it's not hard to replace. You lean the bike to the right so the balls won't fall out, pull the pushrod out, then use a screwdriver in the center hole and pop it out. When installing it, you have to make sure it starts and stays dead square with the bore. In fact, get two because you will probably booger one of them up. If it's the countershaft seal tightening the nut won't fix it, the seal will need to be replaced. I did mine with an air impact, that makes it a lot easier. The shift shaft seal is not hard to install but removal can be a pain, unless you remove the shift shaft which I don't recommend. I wound up using a small pocket screwdriver with the blade bent at a 90 degree angle, stuck it between the shaft and the seal, then pulled on the screwdriver with pliers.
Countershaft sprocket:
That's the clutch pushrod just ahead of it and the shift shaft just below. You have to remove the left side cover to see all this.
Clutch adjuster:
That's under the small chrome cover that snaps into the left side cover.
There's three seals back in there: the clutch pushrod seal, the countershaft seal and the shifter shaft seal. The clutch pushrod seal is generally the one that leaks the worst, it's not hard to replace. You lean the bike to the right so the balls won't fall out, pull the pushrod out, then use a screwdriver in the center hole and pop it out. When installing it, you have to make sure it starts and stays dead square with the bore. In fact, get two because you will probably booger one of them up. If it's the countershaft seal tightening the nut won't fix it, the seal will need to be replaced. I did mine with an air impact, that makes it a lot easier. The shift shaft seal is not hard to install but removal can be a pain, unless you remove the shift shaft which I don't recommend. I wound up using a small pocket screwdriver with the blade bent at a 90 degree angle, stuck it between the shaft and the seal, then pulled on the screwdriver with pliers.
Brennecke
Cellar Rat
Got it. That is what I needed to see. Thanks
Hint; remove the sprocket nut completely, check the bendable lock washer. It is easy to assemble with the lockwasher inner tabs not aligned with the slots in the shaft. This can cause the nut to not be correctly tightened or loosen up.
A bent up one can usually be straightened, cleaned up and reused and MikeXS sells replacement washers.
Lock Tab - Front Sprocket
Lock Tab - Front Sprocket
OEM Reference #
• 90215-26024
• 256-17464-00
• 256-17464-00-00
• 90215-26024-00
Part #22-0650
$6.50 USD Ea
A bent up one can usually be straightened, cleaned up and reused and MikeXS sells replacement washers.
Lock Tab - Front Sprocket
Lock Tab - Front Sprocket
OEM Reference #
• 90215-26024
• 256-17464-00
• 256-17464-00-00
• 90215-26024-00
Part #22-0650
$6.50 USD Ea
