How to undo Locktite on front forks?

[northernsoul]

Guys, need a little advice here. I bought a set of used XS650 front forks on eBay that were in great shape. Trying to lower them a couple of inches. I opened them up and I'm able to get the spring out but can't get the locking hex screw in the bottom to come out of either fork slider. I've gotten both of them to turn but I think they are simply turning the damper inside the slider tube. I think someone may have applied Locktite and I have no idea how to get it to break free. Any thoughts?

 

[hmusket]

Not locktite, just plain tight. Go to the tech section of the forum, check out the threads under suspension category.

 

[retiredgentleman]

Welcome;

You need to insert a tool to hold the damper rod from turning.

1970 to 1977 , top of damper looks like a bolt head, has 2 flats 10 mm across..............you can use a length of flattened tubing as a tool

1978 to 1983, top of damper looks like a 12 point socket. Put some nuts on a threaded rod and lock them together................use 7/16" rod and 7/16" nuts ( 0.679" across the flat)

 

[northernsoul]

Gentlemen, thanks very much - i think i've got the idea now. will give that a try and i'm sure i can get it to work. Greatly appreciate the help.

 

[5twins]

There was some sort of thread locker or sealant applied to the threads of the lower bolt by the factory. Upon re-assembly, I don't apply any new stuff, I just go with the remnants of the original.

 

[Liftrat]

And make sure you turn the allen bolt and not the damper when loosening. I broke the head off a damper ass'y turning the wrong piece once. Use whatever tool you need solely to hold the damper.

 

[griinder]

might try putting the spring and the cap back in, the pressure is usually enough to hold the damper in place so you can loosen the hex bolt. (with an impact gun)

 

[xjwmx]

might try putting the spring and the cap back in, the pressure is usually enough to hold the damper in place so you can loosen the hex bolt. (with an impact gun)

If you get it loose that way, do you not need the home made tool on the other end when you tighten it back up anyway? So you might as well use the tool to take it loose? I'm trying to figure out how to do this before I start it myself, in a couple of days.

 

[azman857]

"XS 650 tech" tab up near the top > Suspension>" How to rebuild your forks/install lowering kit "or something like that. Looks very informitive. You can use the "search" tab and put in "Rebuild forks" and search the 100+ results and fine one or 2 to your likeing.

 

[xjwmx]

^I have looked before and not found the answer to my particular question. But I've found what's been stated here many times over.

 

[Gordon]

Use the impact after re-assembly, it will go alot easier. When re-assembling, use what tool you need to hold the damper rod. I mean to re-assemble them now, before you remove the bottom bolt. On my '80, I have a 17mm allen head from Snap-On that I've had for years. It is an old VW tool, for removing the trans plugs. I do believe thats the dimention RG gave you. He also ment that the diameter of the threaded rod is 7/16". The nut's measure out to 11/16".That is a smidgen bigger than 17mm.
And you can use the impact to put them together, but only if you are skilled enough to 'feel' the proper torque, which I do doubt.

 

[xjwmx]

^Ok, so you can't tighten it without the tool, unless you tighten it with an impact wrench.

 

[retiredgentleman]

There's no need for an impact tool, for removal of the bottom allen head bolt, or for re-installation. The allen head bolt in/out is the easy part of fork work. The hard part is removing the seal.................that is a real chore.

 

[xjwmx]

removing the seal.................that is a real chore.

What's the technique? It looks like it would flip out with a screwdriver like a wheel bearing seal.

 

[griinder]

ha, yeah looks like it would just pop right out. it doesnt.
i have put forks back together using the pressure from the fork spring. still holds the damper in place just fine. and no need to make a 17mm nut/bolt/driver or extension.

 

[azman857]

NOPE. WAY more difficult to get out than wheel bearing seals. In a shop I worked in, we would heat up the seal area carefully so as to not discolor the clearcoat, then pry the seals out with a screwdriver. Of course this is after taking out any c-clips and rings first.

 

[retiredgentleman]

azman857..............heating the seal area of the fork to expand it, sounds like a good way to go.

First time I removed a fork seal, it was just impossible to get it to come out. Finally I used diagonal cutters to cut through one part of the metal seal. Not a fun job.

The second time, I used a dremel tool with the smallest cutting wheel. That worked quite well. You must take care not to cut into the fork itself.

 

[5twins]

Fork seals are about the hardest seals on the whole bike to remove. For some reason, they can become very, very stuck in there. A couple simple "special" tools will make the job much easier. Get a big old screwdriver and file the tip round so it won't gouge the inside of the leg as you pry the old seal out .....

Make a protector for the top of the leg from a piece of aluminum angle with a "finger" bent down in the middle. This will sit right in the top of the fork leg and allow you to pry to your heart's content without damaging the leg top .....

Work your way around the seal, prying in many different spots. Don't try to pop it out by prying in one spot only. With these couple "special" tools, fork seal removal has become quite simple for me now. I've done probably half a dozen in the last month or so with no problem. One set was even baked in when the idiot owner had the legs powder coated with the old seals still in place, lol. Needless to say, those were stuck pretty good.

 

[tadd442]

Fork seals are about the hardest seals on the whole bike to remove. For some reason, they can become very, very stuck in there. A couple simple "special" tools will make the job much easier. Get a big old screwdriver and file the tip round so it won't gouge the inside of the leg as you pry the old seal out .....

Make a protector for the top of the leg from a piece of aluminum angle with a "finger" bent down in the middle. This will sit right in the top of the fork leg and allow you to pry to your heart's content without damaging the leg top .....

Work your way around the seal, prying in many different spots. Don't try to pop it out by prying in one spot only. With these couple "special" tools, fork seal removal has become quite simple for me now. I've done probably half a dozen in the last month or so with no problem. One set was even baked in when the idiot owner had the legs powder coated with the old seals still in place, lol. Needless to say, those were stuck pretty good.

More awesome shit from 5...

 

[retiredgentleman]

5twins.................the "protector" is a super idea...................fork seal change out is just a nasty job!