Hugh's Speedo Delete troubles

hal26

hal26

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Installed my new Speedo delete and now the wheel refuses to turn. Yes,I removed the drive gizmo! Tried everything I can think of. If axle nut is loosened,wheel turns fine. 1981 SH. When I put the stock speedo drive unit back on and tighten everything according to torque specs it rolls freely. Front brake caliper is not installed yet,so that isn't the problem. I wonder if I am missing a spacer or something. All the parts are from rt. to left-threaded axle end-axle nut-flat washer-then the rt. fork leg-(no spacer)-then a large one piece cap over wheel bearing-then on to other side-Hugh's speedo delete-(no spacer)-then the fork leg-axle end with hole-cap underneath-recommended torque 61 ft.lbs. for main nut and 13 for axle cap nuts,if memory serves, and tighten front one first with arrow pointing forward. Can't find a decent pic anywhere. HELP!
 
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That's the one. Beautiful piece. Was a little snug on the axle initially but it quickly smoothed out. I would like to keep it if I can only make it work.
 
Put some black marker on the aluminum wheel just under the area outlined in yellow all the way around.
re-install spacer on axle, not on bike not necessary, press hard and see if it gets rubbed off.

might be wrong size here or some where else.

Keep testing with back marker for interference.

Added;
Just install it like the picture looks here, with black marker on the wheel for a clearance check, push hard on the end of the axle and twist.
If rubbing occurs that is the problem, it should not touch the wheel in this area or inside on the stepped down area. Only contact should be with the shoulder of the axle bolt and the bearing inside.

That's my 2 cents. (canadian)
 

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Thanks for the idea. I'll give it a try later today. I also sent an email to Hugh and I'm sure he will get back to me soon. I know they are super busy over there right now......I only have a zillion other details to attend to on this build!
 
Nah I'd been running it already for a couple hundred miles. Didn't bother though I'm sure Hugh would've been helpful.
 
Hal,

Some hubs had a little bit more "flash" in the castings, lightly take a file, die grinder, flap disk, etc.. to the outermost flange of the wheel where it contacts the spacer. Smoothing that out and removing any casting flaws should get you back into action. Yamaha didn't always have the quality control in castings that Honda had at the time, so the fit and finish of lots of cast Yamaha parts can be a bit lackluster. If you can't solve it, let me know, and we'll make it right. PS - I responded to your emails and PM's as well, hope you get them :bike:

Hugh
 
Hal
don't give up to easily.

Try the black marker test and find the high spot and file down.

Aluminum files very easily.

You need about 6 thousand clearance under the hat, your new spacer, so a flat file will easily take that part of the hub down.

If it spins free, the new spacer, when installed like shown in the picture that means the inside diameter is good and the pressure is just squeezing it a little too much under what i call the hat.

Don't file the spacer, make the small adjustment on your wheel.
 
Thanks everyone for your kind help. I think I got it close enough. Took the wheel and gently filed across the hub a little with a nice flat file. Loosened all my pinch bolts on the forks,greased the Speedo Delete and the axle (no brake or fender,it's in the build stage-check my album) and carefully reassembled and torqued down to 61 lbs. LOTS of drag on the wheel but better than before-it would not even roll. Put on some super trick gun lube and Tq and re-Tq many times while turning the wheel so as to wear it in. Tightened everything carefully up to spec and now it turns OK. Won't spin freely but I think that when (if!) I ride it,it should wear in the rest of the way.
 
I have not done this mod but I don't think you are going at this the right way, the spacer and wheel should not touch. Close but no rubbing, you may get galling action and bad things can happen after that. If the parts rub the metal will get hot and expand possibly creating enough friction, damage to stop the wheel, might put a crimp in your day.
 
I have thought of that. It seems that the more I spin the wheel the looser it seems to become. The change is so gradual that it might be my imagination. Yesterday I was unable to even push the bike because the wheel was so tight. It will be quite some time before I actually ride the bike to know for sure. When the speedo drive is on it,it spins freely with zero resistance. Should I just bail and get a refund? Hugh seems to be a great guy and this is not a negative for him. Sometimes sh&t happens...check out my album
 
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Dont bail and get a refund.....just take the darn thing off and put a file to your wheel on the "rought/high" spot....should only take a matter of minutes.
 
I have already done that. Surface is flat and I don't want to possibly screw it up by filing off too much material. It seems to be binding up evenly,if you know what I mean. I think it might be OK after I ride it a couple of miles. Hugh has been great in helping me out,good dude.
 
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hal26 said:
Thanks everyone for your kind help. I think I got it close enough. Took the wheel and gently filed across the hub a little with a nice flat file. Loosened all my pinch bolts on the forks,greased the Speedo Delete and the axle (no brake or fender,it's in the build stage-check my album) and carefully reassembled and torqued down to 61 lbs. LOTS of drag on the wheel but better than before-it would not even roll. Put on some super trick gun lube and Tq and re-Tq many times while turning the wheel so as to wear it in. Tightened everything carefully up to spec and now it turns OK. Won't spin freely but I think that when (if!) I ride it,it should wear in the rest of the way.
Click to expand...

I'd file the wheele some more yamaha wheels are rough and not very true.custom bikes
thake a lot of fit, refit, and refit some more to make it right remember we are working on
30+ year old bikes, casting wern't that good back then( not like the us stuff was ha,ha,ha):D
 

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