Is this the Chrysler Regulator? I can't find how to wire this.

[Leejin]

So, I went to NAPA and THOUGHT I ordered the correct Regulator. I gave the gentleman the Part Number that Pampco Pete has listed several times. So he ordered it, it came in, and I got it.

Turns out, this has 4 wires.. Not the 2 female bullet connectors like the one I've seen.

The box says VR1010.. I google that and find none related images is all.

Here is the new and old. Old one was in baaad shape. Can't believe it ran. Ha.

 

[I am Carbon]

When I made change I used the parts from this thread. and the info worked for me
link

 

[650Skull]

..............

 

[Leejin]

This is it a link to the Napa regulators that Pete recommends.

Aussie model 80SG with points. Had to change the screws that mounted the brushes to nylon. There is another regulator similar that doesn't require the nylon screws at the brushes for points models. RG has done this.

And here are my rectifiers..

Made the plate so i could mount it where the old rectifier mounted to the battery box. Used the nut as a spacer so there is just the right amount of thread to go through the box for another nut

Mounted the regulator where the old one come off

I get a no results page when I use that link.

 

[5twins]

What you're holding in your 1st post is the original rectifier and an automotive regulator. The two don't swap. Look through this thread .....

http://www.xs650.com/forum/showthread.php?t=21485

 

[xjwmx]

I think the vr1010 is the same as the vr291 (regulator!). So look for 291 circuits. Look about halfway down for a photo

http://650rider.com/index.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&t=7644

My original stock regrec charging sys is still going strong.

 

[xjwmx]

Without gettin too far into it, maybe this:

 

[650Skull]

....................

 

[5twins]

The type of replacement regulator you need depends on the charging system you have (before or after 1980). Since you didn't provide that info, it's anybody's guess whether or not you bought the right regulator.

 

[YL82]

His profile indicates that he has a "1972 XS650".

The burden is on him to convey up front what he's working on though...

 

[Leejin]

The type of replacement regulator you need depends on the charging system you have (before or after 1980). Since you didn't provide that info, it's anybody's guess whether or not you bought the right regulator.

His profile indicates that he has a "1972 XS650".

The burden is on him to convey up front what he's working on though...

Unfortunately, my bike is an amalgamated Frankenstein hand built by a 4x4 enthusiast. So I have no idea what charging system is in place. It's registered as a '72, just to get by without blinkers I think. The motor is from a '78 I think, the carbs, no idea. Nothing really matched up. Nothing on the frame to go by. :/

 

[Leejin]

Without gettin too far into it, maybe this:

Thanks.. This is what I was looking for. Not sure, but I remember reading somewhere that if you get the right regulator, you don't need the nylon screws.

Is there any way of finding out if that's true?

 

[xjwmx]

^My understanding is there are two kinds of charging system regulators. One supplies 12v when it needs to energize the rotor, with the other brush connected to ground; and the other type supplies ground with the other brush connected to 12v. A little bit of searching should should turn up which the 291 is. I think the nylon business is to prevent one or both brushes being connected to the case (ground) if that isn't desirable. I would find out how my regulator works, then I would use a meter to see which if any of my brush screws are grounded to the case already, and proceed accordingly. From that diagram I can't tell how the 291 works, but I can say a green wire typically goes to ground. So it could be the 291 is the ground supplying type.

 

[650Skull]

Thanks.. This is what I was looking for. Not sure, but I remember reading somewhere that if you get the right regulator, you don't need the nylon screws.

Is there any way of finding out if that's true?

Yes there is i had posted a link.

 

[XSLeo]

In your first pic the old part you show is not the regulator. It's the rectifier. I'll post a pic of your regulator. In this pic is the regulator and rectifier for a 70-79. The regulator has the long round green tube along one edge. It was mounted on the side of the battery box.
The rectifier is the thing that looks like thing in your pic. it mounted up on the bottom of the battery box.
It appears your bike fits in the 70-79 years. If so the regulator you got is the right one.
Wire it up as shown in the diagram xjwmx posted.
No need for the nylon screws. It function the same as the stock regulator. It reads the voltage on the brown wire from the bike. It uses this reading to determine battery voltage. If voltage is low it send full battery voltage out on the green wire. At the brush this voltage goes through the rotor and out the other brush to ground. This starts the charge cycle. When battery voltage reaches the preset voltage it turn the power off. This cycle happens hundreds of time a minute to keep the battery at the proper voltage.
The alternator creates AC voltage. The rectifier converts this AC to DC. The alternator output is sent out on the three white wires where diodes, electrical one way valves do the conversion to DC. The Dc is then sent to the battery on the red wire and to ground on the black wire.
Leo

 

[Leejin]

In your first pic the old part you show is not the regulator. It's the rectifier. I'll post a pic of your regulator. In this pic is the regulator and rectifier for a 70-79. The regulator has the long round green tube along one edge. It was mounted on the side of the battery box.
The rectifier is the thing that looks like thing in your pic. it mounted up on the bottom of the battery box.
It appears your bike fits in the 70-79 years. If so the regulator you got is the right one.
Wire it up as shown in the diagram xjwmx posted.
No need for the nylon screws. It function the same as the stock regulator. It reads the voltage on the brown wire from the bike. It uses this reading to determine battery voltage. If voltage is low it send full battery voltage out on the green wire. At the brush this voltage goes through the rotor and out the other brush to ground. This starts the charge cycle. When battery voltage reaches the preset voltage it turn the power off. This cycle happens hundreds of time a minute to keep the battery at the proper voltage.
The alternator creates AC voltage. The rectifier converts this AC to DC. The alternator output is sent out on the three white wires where diodes, electrical one way valves do the conversion to DC. The Dc is then sent to the battery on the red wire and to ground on the black wire.
Leo

Phew.. Thanks Leo. You've helped me out a few time and you're always great. This is exactly what I needed.