Kickstarter and clutch adjustment

[mikeh36]

A couple of weeks ago I did the electric starter fix and had some issues getting the side cover back on. I'd inadvertently let the kickstarter slide out enough that it wasn't seated properly. I fixed it by putting the lever back on and rotating the assembly until it popped into place. I'm 90% sure that I checked that the starter engaged and rotated the crankshaft but I never tried starting the bike with the kickstarter as that wasn't what I was fixing.

A couple of days ago I started after wiring up the pamco ignition and while it was on the center stand put it gear and noticed the clutch cable was really loose so I popped the adjustment cover off on the left side and attempted to adjust the clutch. Everything I've read said to turn the screw until it stopped and then back it off a bit. I was merrily turning the screw when I heard something pop and went "Oh Shit!". I back the screw off a 1/4 turn and tested the clutch lever and it was working as it should so I didn't think anything of it.

This afternoon I want to fire it up to show my wife how it sounds with the new exhaust, forgot that I'd actually used the kill switch earlier, so when it wouldn't start I tried to kick start it. I got nothing. The lever just rotates and returns but there's no resistance to it.

Before I drain the oil and pull the cover off, is there a chance that the popping sound I heard when I was adjusting the clutch and the kickstarter not engaging are related? Can I fix it by backing the adjustment screw off further? Or have I potentially done something really bad am now funded?

 

[TwoManyXS1Bs]

Maybe, but try this first. With the bike on the centerstand, put it in any gear, then do these 2 tests.

Rotate the rear wheel.
If it spins, your clutch is disengaged.

Push the kickstart thru a cycle.
If the rear wheel spins, your kickstart is probably ok.
If not, the kickstart's drag clip may be the problem...

 

[mikeh36]

I'll give that a shot. I was also going to try backing the clutch adjustment screw out to see if that made a difference. It's been a few years since I done much with the bike and I can't remember, under normal circumstances, would the bike kick over with the clutch disengaged?

 

[TwoManyXS1Bs]

No. The kickstart gear drives thru the transmission's 1st gearset, then thru the clutch...

 

[mikeh36]

Just came in from looking at the bike. Put the bike in first and couldn't rotate the wheel, tried the kickstarter and wheel rotated. Back into neutral and still no compression (or at least very little) when tried turning it over with the kickstarter. Backed the clutch adjustment screw way out to the point that the clutch lever didn't return when it was released and tried the kickstarter again. Lots of compression now! Turned the key on, gave it some choke, kicked it and it fired right up.

New, but related, question. With the bike on the center stand, running, and in first gear should I be able to stop the back wheel from spinning if I pull the clutch lever in? It's been a long time since I worked on/rode the bike. Problems with my left foot made up shifting difficult but I want to give it another shot. Anyways I've forgotten a lot of the little idiosyncrasies of these bikes.

 

[TwoManyXS1Bs]

Well, good, the kickstarter's fine. So, now you'll need to pull the left sidecover and do a good clean and inspection of the clutch actuator (worm mechanism)...

 

[mikeh36]

Thanks 2M. I'll take a look actuator tomorrow. I did take it off the center stand, fired it up, and put it into first. It didn't stall out but the clutch is dragging pretty good and I couldn't get it back into neutral until i turned it off. So the actuator is sort of working.

 

[5twins]

Clutch adjustment and setting on these bikes is touchy. Get it too loose and you have the dragging and difficult to find neutral like you have now. Set it too tight and you get the problems you had just previous to your current ones. The assembly gives very little clutch plate separation, barely enough.

 

[mikeh36]

You're definitely right there 5twins. I went back out a bit ago and turn the adjustment screw in a couple more turns and it seems happy again. Still have to hunt for neutral but this bike has always done that. This sucker is almost back on the road.

 

[XSLeo]

When you adjust the adjuster in the side cover you should back off the adjuster at the lever, have plenty of slack in the cable.
Now down at the side cover adjuster back the screw out some, enough so you can turn it in/out with much resistance. Now turn it in/out till you get a good feel for how much effort is needed to turn just the screw. Once you get a good feel for it turn the screw in till you just feel any increase in resistance. This is the point you have removed all free play out. You need to add a bit back in. The book calls for 1/4 turn, I have found 1/6 turn works better. With the lock nut backed of a bit it turns with the screw, watch the nut as you turn the screw back out. One flat of the nut back out is what I use.
This gives you enough fee p[lay heat expansion won't effect the adjustment but minimize the free play to get the max opening of the clutch plates.
This helps with finding neutral and reduces clutch drag.
Leo

 

[mikeh36]

When you say to back off the adjuster at the lever do you mean screw it out of the lever or in? I just want to double check that I'm going the right way.

 

[angus67]

In is loose

 

[mikeh36]

Great, then I was doing something correctly.