low rpm miss?

Yes, that's not a stock regulator, and from it's condition looks ready for the trash bin anyway, lol.
 
Weekendrider and 5Twins are right, mine is the same as the one posted by WER, flip the thing over and lets have a look at the other side...(please post picture up).
looks like you have quiet a "Frankenbuild" going on there, you cannot just put in a regulator that "looks the same" into the charging system. From what you posted I was thinking that the regulator was from another year, so I spent my time looking at the diagrams and found that they are the brown, green, black wires throughout the diagrams until they changed in the later years....

Do you understand how the regulator and rectifier work at all? Again have a good look at the wiring diagram, it's the key to getting your charging system working.....with the right components

cheers Mick
 
Now would be a good time to switch to a newer automotive regulator (VR-115).
Search keyword regulator, VR-115 and authors Retiredgentleman and 5twins.
Look for the wiring instructions so you might even throw that on the keywords.
 
image.jpg
Picked up the correct one yesterday, guess this is what happens when you bike cheap resto bikes that you don't know the history of who built it...

Also found this today, is this the reason the rear breaks aren't working?should be around the other way in my head or will it not matter which way they are rotated? Should be on the bottom and rotating anti clockwise not on the top rotating clockwise.
 
Ditto with Mick, take it apart, check the shoes and brake cam.
I've seen a couple of customs in here running the rear brake thataway, but I wouldn't recommend that. The tension from the brake rod will add torque to the backing plate, and increase tension on the brake stay, reverse of the proper loading. The brake stay also needs to be shortened a bit, so that the axle/stay-post/stay-bar form a 90° angle.
 
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