Still may want to check the actual gas height with the clear tube.

Oh yeah, it’s in my plans. I’ve got my left carb all set to do it.
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I have no idea why I did not buy two of these brass nipples so I could test both carbs simultaneously! I’m going to have to test one, drain both carburetors and then switch parts around. :doh:
 
Oh yeah, it’s in my plans. I’ve got my left carb all set to do it.
View attachment 139170

I have no idea why I did not buy two of these brass nipples so I could test both carbs simultaneously! I’m going to have to test one, drain both carburetors and then switch parts around. :doh:

I’m no carb guru for sure but I’ve found it can be a few tries of adjust, re-assemble,test,repeat. I’m ok with one at a time. You’ll get er done!
 
So I’ve been working on getting my engine case repainted, so I could put everything back together. I’ve spent a few tedious days on it, not full days, but a lot of hours. I removed my cam chain tensioner and sanded all the wrinkled paint off of my case , just really a pain in the ass trying to do this with the engine in the frame. I then spent another day masking , trying to be really careful so I don’t get silver overspray on my frame. Which brought me to this point.
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Then I wiped everything down with paint thinner and got ready to shoot it. I set my fan up, got my respirator on and started spraying the silver. WHICH IMMEDIATELY WRINKLED!!!! All I could do was grab a can of lacquer thinner and a rag and start scrubbing the fresh paint off. I am not sure what happened, maybe when I wiped off the case with paint thinner, I didn’t give it enough time to gas off. I don’t know, all I do know is I’m back to square one, I’m going to have to re do most of the work again.
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I think I’ll just go in and look for some old Star Trek re runs. Sigh........:(
 
Not trying to tell you what to do, but I will.:p
I think I would get the carbs sorted out before worrying about the cases. Hate to see you have to repaint them twice.
 
Not trying to tell you what to do, but I will.:p
I think I would get the carbs sorted out before worrying about the cases. Hate to see you have to repaint them twice.

Yeah, I’ve been waffling over what order to proceed. I had that very same thought, it’s just that I already have the bike so stripped back down and open right now. What I thought I would do , with the cases painted, was cover them with plastic to protect them, while I was working on the carbs.
 
Check your cans Bob. Sounds like a lacquer over enamel mismatch. Or vise versa... can never remember which way it goes. Once you get the case re-prepped, shoot it with a coat of grey primer/sealer... then go with the silver and clear on top.
 
Check your cans Bob. Sounds like a lacquer over enamel mismatch. Or vise versa... can never remember which way it goes. Once you get the case re-prepped, shoot it with a coat of grey primer/sealer... then go with the silver and clear on top.

Yeah thanks Jim, I have thought about the merit of going first with a primer. The weird thing is this is the same paint I used to paint the cases with originally. I’m still thinking! :cool:
 
Bummer.
When you wipe some relatively fresh paint with a solvent, it can soften the paint and get into it, requiring an extended off-gassing or drying process.
To wipe down paint, I use a less aggressive liquid called Fin-L-Wash by Martin Senour (NAPA) made just for that purpose.
A primer coat might be helpful, but then you are adding more coats, and they can interact with each other.
Generally, lacquers can cause problems when sprayed over enamels; their solvents are "hotter", and can interact with the underlying paint.
Most rattle can sandable primers are lacquer-based.

When you spray the silver, I suggest doing light coats, maybe 2 or 3, allowing good drying time between them.
If you use Spray-Max 2K for the clear coats, your finish will be gasoline resistant.
 
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Misery loves company? Near exact same situation, gas was spilled on "period piece" tank, sanded, wiped with mineral spirits, waited sprayed from same rattle can as first paint job, wrinkle, wipe off, repeat, wrinkle. :banghead: Good thing she wanted a rustic paint job LOL maybe gas is still IN the first coat?
 
Misery loves company? Near exact same situation, gas was spilled on "period piece" tank, sanded, wiped with mineral spirits, waited sprayed from same rattle can as first paint job, wrinkle, wipe off, repeat, wrinkle. :banghead: Good thing she wanted a rustic paint job LOL maybe gas is still IN the first coat?
Yup, gas might be in the paint. Or mineral spirits.
Also: Sanded/feathered edges are vulnerable to wrinkling, unless the paint has excellent adherence to the primer, which is hard to achieve in the home shop.
Sometimes its best to remove all the paint and start over.
And use a clear coat which will be gas resistant, like Spray Max 2K (epoxy 2-stage).
 
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When it is unworkable to strip off all the paint to do a re-spray, such as in the case of a car, you could consider using a sealer.
For my Ghia, it needed a re-spray 4 years after the initial paint job.
After sanding the imperfections,
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I gave it 3 coats of red oxide sandable primer, and sanded most of that off, then 2 more coats, then a light sand.
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and then the sealer coats.
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and finally the color coats.
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The sealer coat prevents the various layers of paint from interacting with each other.
.
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