Minimalist battery with boyer ignition

[kazdika]

Hey

I recently got my bike running but ended up leaving my switches on and now my 12v minimalist battery that I bought from 650central is almost drained. I'm running a boyer ignition, Hugh's PMA with regulator rectifier and kick start only. I was able to start and run the bike but had to leave my headlight and tail light switch off in order to start. After it was running I can turn my lights on and it still seems to run fine

Can I cause any damage to the ignition or coil or anything runing my battery like this?
Will the system charge the battery while I'm riding or should I charge the battery separately?
And if I need to charge this battery can I use a normal 12v charger?

I searched the forum but couldnt find anythin similar and I'm kinda confused when it comes to this so any help is much appreciated!

Thanks

 

[junkshow]

Do not use a 12v charger. You will over charge it a ruin the battery. I have the same battery's and needed to charge it a few time trying to re-wire the bike. I've used my 1v trickle charger for 3-5 minutes and it reached 12v in that short time.

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[bearcat]

Im running the same set up as you, except for the battery. Im running a Ballistic. Not a minimalist and not cheap. Plenty of power for the Boyer and a lot smaller than a standard battery

 

[kazdika]

Thanks!

Ill have to buy a new trickle charger, mines fucked!

If this minimalist battery keeps giving me trouble ill look into a Ballistic. As long as i keep my switches off i should be ok

 

[IowaBoy]

Are you running a battery just to keep the electric start? I have a Hughs pma and a sparx cap instead of a battery. runs great doesnt matter if you kick it with the headlight on or off, it starts no matter what.

 

[kazdika]

No I already removed my starter. I could run a capacitor but was advised that I needed to run a battery with the boyer to run the blue micro power ignition box.

IowaBoy: Are you running a boyer ignition?

 

[IowaBoy]

Ahh, I am not sure on the Boyer. I have a Pamcoe on mine. I will tell you what that Pam ignition is great. I seriously have one switch for everything, I start with the headlight on with no probelms, and save the weight of the battery.

 

[bearcat]

I was given the Boyer, brand new. It went bad on me within a year, had to send it back to England to be told it was bad. They me a new replacement... Took a month for the whole turn around. Haven't had any more problems, but would never recommend it, especially given the need to run a battery and the logistics of warranty issues. I'll definatey go Pamco next time

 

[IowaBoy]

ive heard great things about both. I have been persuaded to a Pamcoe by Hugh when I was visiting him in November. Its good to have friends like him that know way more then I could ever try to.

 

[kazdika]

I would have ran Pamco but waited and waited and Mikes never had any for the longest time so i went with Boyer. Paid more for the Boyer too. And then I read about a bunch of negative feedback about the Boyer on this site so its got me a lil suspicious. But so far so good.

Currently Im running three switches, one for my ignition, one for my kill-switch and one for my headlight and tail light. If I were to wire it again I would wire only 2 switches because the kill switch is pointless, IMO

 

[XSLeo]

From the things I have read about the Boyer it is more voltage sensitive than the stock ignition or the Pamco. Using a battery, even a very small one supplies the needed voltage.
A PMA makes power even with a dead battery. With a dead battery starting can be hard because the dead battery draws a good portion of the PMA power at kicking speeds. Turning off the lights causes less draw on the PMA. Lees draw from other things lets more power go to the ignition.
On charging your tiny battery a 12volt charger is what you want, you just want one with a very low amp rating. I have A 7 amp/hour battery I use on my boat to run the depth finder. It came with a 12 volt 500 milliamp charger. The 500 milliamps is 1/2 amp.
A general guideline for a charger is that the charging rate should be 10% of the amp/hour rating of the battery. As in the stock battery is a 14 a/h, 10% of 14 is 1.4. A 1.5 to 2 amp charger is great for them.
Your minimalist battery is .8 a/h Even my 1/2 amp is a bit large. It will charge your battery but do it very quickly. Maybe in as little as 1/2 hour. If your charger is larger, I mimight hold the battery in my hand, hook up the chager. If the battery gets warm unhook the charger. This will charge the battery but holding it in your hand you will kniow when the battery is in danger.
Trying to use a much larger charger will be too much, damaging the battery or even blowing it up.
Doing as you do with the lights turned of, start it up and that tiny battery should charge up quickly. Just let it run a few minutes before you turn the lights on.
Leo

 

[kazdika]

Thanks XSLeo,

So hold it in your hand and next to your face and use a car battery charger?

I used a 12v 2a trickle charger and charged in for about 20-30min checking periodically and was good to go

 

[XSLeo]

Not exactly what I meant. Use a typical motorcycle charger of 1.5 or 2 amp. When it gets warm stop charging. Holding it in your hand makes it easy to tell when it warms up.
Let it cool while you check the charge. If it needs more, charge more.
Leo

 

[kazdika]

So hold it in your hand and next to your face and use a car battery charger?

Its a joke Leo