More electrical research!

[motorbreath]

Couldn't figure how to use video but heres one of it running

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?...703026&type=2&theater&notif_t=video_processed

Im running hughs PMA, standard pamco ignition, and TC bros capacitor. 1981 xs650

This is the diagram i used but the other black blobs are inline fuses i added, any way here are my readings i have.

From the red wire on the regulator i got 14.82-14.89V

Regulator to Capacitor i have 14.33-14.78V

Capacitor to B position on Key switch i have roughly 14.83V

L position on key switch to my kill switch i have 14.55V

Now from the other on side of the kill switch to coil i have an obscure number collection ranging from anywhere such as 3V-12V

Thanks

 

[retiredgentleman]

View attachment 46189
View attachment 46190

Couldn't figure how to use video but heres one of it running

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?...703026&type=2&theater&notif_t=video_processed

Im running hughs PMA, standard pamco ignition, and TC bros capacitor. 1981 xs650

This is the diagram i used but the other black blobs are inline fuses i added, any way here are my readings i have.

From the red wire on the regulator i got 14.82-14.89V

Regulator to Capacitor i have 14.33-14.78V

Capacitor to B position on Key switch i have roughly 14.83V

L position on key switch to my kill switch i have 14.55V

Now from the other on side of the kill switch to coil i have an obscure number collection ranging from anywhere such as 3V-12V

Thanks

That would indicate the Kill switch has a high resistance. It's liked corroded up with nasty green stuff. They can be taken apart and the copper contacts cleaned up.

 

[motorbreath]

does it make a difference if its a new kill switch i just bought?

 

[fredintoon]

does it make a difference if its a new kill switch i just bought?

Hi mb,
it just might. While most aftermarket components are OK, some are just rubbish.
Set your multimeter to Ohms and check the new killswitch resistance.
Anything other than zero Ohms for the ON position is not good.

 

[retiredgentleman]

does it make a difference if its a new kill switch i just bought?

Here is my suggestion. Disconnect the Kill switch and re-connect the 2 wires where the Kill switch was. With the Kill switch out of the circuit, now measure the voltage to the coil.

You could also use your ohmmeter to measure the Kill switch resistance, which should be 0 ohms.

If you bought a cheap Kill switch, it may be defective right out of the box.

 

[pamcopete]

Well, it wouldn't be running with those obscure voltage numbers, but those numbers are consistent with what you would read on the green wire from the PAMCO so I think you just have the meter probe on the wrong coil terminal.

 

[motorbreath]

Which setting should i have ohms on 200, 2000, 20k? Also i thought it didn't matter which end the probe was on when up a the coil

 

[retiredgentleman]

Which setting should i have ohms on 200, 2000, 20k? Also i thought it didn't matter which end the probe was on when up a the coil

Use the lowest ohms setting on your meter. Touch the 2 probes together and see what your meter reads. As an example, if it reads 0.6 ohms, and testing the Kill switch reads 1.0 ohms, then the switch itself is 0.4 ohms.

 

[motorbreath]

Well i just ripped the kill switch off and so far its not screwing up, yet lol

 

[retiredgentleman]

Well i just ripped the kill switch off and so far its not screwing up, yet lol

Are you saying the engine is running well now?

Edit: If so, post a picture of this crap Kill Switch. Where did you buy it, and what did it cost?

 

[motorbreath]

So, the bike ran good for a day, took it on a 3 hr trip, and now go to start it today it runs like shit again, it killed itself on the highway today that was fun, and if i get up on it and go its almost like its missing idk if the pamco could be off a hair or if the pma is junk, or it could even be the capacitor but i checked volts and its good, idk what to do i was planning on riding to the Tail of the dragon in 3 weeks but idk if thats going to happen if i cant figure this problem out,
Retiredgentleman, the switch was 3$ at orileys store

 

[pamcopete]

motorbreath,

Try temporarily connecting the PAMCO to a fully charged battery so you can isolate the PMA / Regulator and capacitor from the equation.

 

[motorbreath]

so when i hook the battery up what should i look for?

 

[Machi]

Since I have a similar set up, I am keenly following this thread

 

[pamcopete]

so when i hook the battery up what should i look for?

Start the engine and see if it works better.

 

[pamcopete]

so when i hook the battery up what should i look for?

Start the engine and see if it works better.

 

[motorbreath]

so just take the capacitor off, and hook the battery in that location, ill get to it about noon today and see if it goes good

 

[pamcopete]

motorbreath,

No, you want the PMA system to be complete so you can troubleshoot it with the engine running. Use a separate fully charged battery to independently power the PAMCO with no connection to the bikes electrical system. The idea is to separate the PMA from the PAMCO to see if the PMA is causing a problem.

 

[motorbreath]

So i just hooked the battery up while the capacitor, it seemed like its running beret but i have to duck tape the battery on before i take it for a spin, but i was reading that people leave the battery and capacitor on together, and i used the multimeter on the battery and when i Gave it gas and it was reading 12.8v - 14.3v so the battery is charging which is good, , i feel like I'm on the right track thanks to fellow members,

 

[motorbreath]

Okay so just hook the battery to the green,red wires on the Pamco?