My New Rotor fried already!!

[Jim]

On my rotor tooling thread, PamcoPete said he runs straight battery juice to the reg. through a relay energized by the iggy switch. That would probably be the best way to go..... My only concern with that is that we're bypassing the dirty iggy switch problem.... instead of fixing it.

 

[MaxPete]

Yup - it would be much better to clean the switch...

 

[XSLeo]

The reg doesn't draw power through the brown wire, it just reads the voltage. NO volt drop from the reg reading the voltage.
There are many other places that can cause a voltage drop before the reg reads the voltage on the brown wire.
Starting at the battery, the connection where the cable hook on. A red wire comes off the positive battery cable to feed power to the switch. There is a plug in connector before this wire goes into the harness. One possible bad connection.
Once in the harness that red wire runs up to a plug in the headlight bucket. This plug hooks to the plug on the switch, one possible bad connection. In the switch has a copper plate that gets moved around to make and break connections. Two more places for bad connections.
Back out of switch on a brown wire to the plug. Another possible bad connection.
That brown wire runs to several things but the one we are concerned with now is where it runs to the regulator. There is a plug on the regulator. Another possible weak spot.
These are the places you want to check voltages. These are the places that loose dirty connections cause the low voltage at regulator.
Most often the switch is the culprit. You can take off the switch, Disassemble and clean the contacts in the switch.
Leo

 

[gggGary]

On my rotor tooling thread, PamcoPete said he runs straight battery juice to the reg. through a relay energized by the iggy switch. That would probably be the best way to go..... My only concern with that is that we're bypassing the dirty iggy switch problem.... instead of fixing it.

That's kind of a thing. Instead of sending major loads out to the iggy then back down to the coil etc. the load bearing wires are shortened. and just the light relay coil circuit has to make the convoluted trip. On many big bikes with lots of loads the iggy switch overheats and turns into a gooey mess.

 

[XSLeo]

I use a relay like that to power the ignition. Even cleaning the kill switch didn't really help much. It still cut out now and then. The relay stopped that.
I can see where using a relay can be ok.
If building your own harness you can run lighter wire to switches and such. Lighter wires= easier to conceal. This can shorten the heavier wires and have less connections in these heavier wires. All good things.
Leo

 

[Jim]

The reg doesn't draw power through the brown wire, it just reads the voltage. NO volt drop from the reg reading the voltage.

If we're talking the type A reg on an 80 and up bike, that's correct. The brown wire feeds the rotor direct.... but the B type reg used on the 79 and older bikes regulate power going to the rotor. the 2.5 amps (give or take) the rotor needs at full charge are pulled from the brown wire and passed on to the rotor on the green wire. So... although the reg is just a glorified switch, it does see about 2.5 amps of current.

And count me as a huge fan of relays. My point was simply that I'd prefer to fix the problem than modify my way around it.