-
Enjoy XS650.com? Consider making a donation to help support the site.
XS650.com receives a small share of sales from some links on this page, but direct donations have a much greater impact on keeping this site going.
My rebuild journey. (old title: Future owner - Help me identify this 650.)
- Thread starter Sudonate91
- Start date
If it were me, I would not have any concern for the sprocket. I would replace the chain and sprockets with new. They're wear items. The sprocket on that wheel goes in the recycle bin or the trash.
Sudonate91
XS650 Addict
Would it be easy to down the spocket to a lower tooth number without other modifications?
Regarding your rear wheel search. Take another look at that pic of the brake plate you posted. See the funky brake wear switch and wire? Thats a early/mid 70's feature. Ya, you can just eliminate that but... ugly, eyesore of a feature. I'll bet you will find a suitable, usable 80' Special II chrome wheel. Then just gear it a tooth or two under the stock 34.. done.
Good looking and best performance
Good looking and best performance
Sudonate91
XS650 Addict
Yeah that would be ideal!Regarding your rear wheel search. Take another look at that pic of the brake plate you posted. See the funky brake wear switch and wire? Thats a early/mid 70's feature. Ya, you can just eliminate that but... ugly, eyesore of a feature. I'll bet you will find a suitable, usable 80' Special II chrome wheel. Then just gear it a tooth or two under the stock 34.. done.
Good looking and best performance
View attachment 180827
I'm hoping to get the carb rebuilt and on the bike tonight. I cleaned out the tank and petcock already. I need to pick up a new battery too.
Once I get everything back on the bike. What steps should I take to see if it would run? Kick it? Try the electric start (if it works). There is no dipstick so sorta hard to check the oil but I'll take a gander at that too. Use fresh fuel. Should I put octane booster in it or just use standard premium for now?
I'm sure I'm missing other things. Hopefully I'm not premature - I just really wanna know if it runs.
That carb cleaning vid is so-so. You think he might take the time and trouble to learn what all the parts are and their names before making a video, lol. There's also a glaring omission. He makes no mention of the choke feed jet and cleaning it. If it's plugged, the choke won't work and the bike will be very, very difficult to cold start.
You don't need any octane booster, just use high test gas. Kick starting may be easier for the first start. You can try the electric start but don't run it for too long. The battery isn't very big and doesn't have much of a reserve. It will run down quickly with sustained, long engine cranking. If it gets low, there may not be enough juice left in it to power the ignition, so it may still crank but won't start. The starter is using all the battery power and leaving none for the ignition. So, as I said, you can try the starter. Give it maybe 3 or 4 short 5 to 10 second cranks. If it doesn't fire up, change to kicking it. If it won't start, make sure the choke jets are clear .....
You don't need any octane booster, just use high test gas. Kick starting may be easier for the first start. You can try the electric start but don't run it for too long. The battery isn't very big and doesn't have much of a reserve. It will run down quickly with sustained, long engine cranking. If it gets low, there may not be enough juice left in it to power the ignition, so it may still crank but won't start. The starter is using all the battery power and leaving none for the ignition. So, as I said, you can try the starter. Give it maybe 3 or 4 short 5 to 10 second cranks. If it doesn't fire up, change to kicking it. If it won't start, make sure the choke jets are clear .....
Sudonate91
XS650 Addict
Great I'll make sure I get that clean!That carb cleaning vid is so-so. You think he might take the time and trouble to learn what all the parts are and their names before making a video, lol. There's also a glaring omission. He makes no mention of the choke feed jet and cleaning it. If it's plugged, the choke won't work and the bike will be very, very difficult to cold start.
You don't need any octane booster, just use high test gas. Kick starting may be easier for the first start. You can try the electric start but don't run it for too long. The battery isn't very big and doesn't have much of a reserve. It will run down quickly with sustained, long engine cranking. If it gets low, there may not be enough juice left in it to power the ignition, so it may still crank but won't start. The starter is using all the battery power and leaving none for the ignition. So, as I said, you can try the starter. Give it maybe 3 or 4 short 5 to 10 second cranks. If it doesn't fire up, change to kicking it. If it won't start, make sure the choke jets are clear .....
Also. The kit just arrived. It seems to come with two float needles. One looks thicker at the snipe ring side, the other is thinner. Is there a 'proper' one to use? I imagine it's for tuning purposes?
Honestly, you may not even need one of those kit needles. The original usually works OK so I'd try it 1st. Those kit needles are a slightly different taper and lengths than the original. They could be experimented with if the bike can't be tuned perfectly with the original, but like I said, it usually works fine. What may "throw a wrench" into your set-up is that 2-1 exhaust. They have been reported to be difficult to tune for.
Here are those kit needles (Y265 and Y267) compared to some originals. The Y267 is pretty much a copy of the 5O2 needle used in the '78-'79 carb set .....
The taper on the Y265 more closely matches an XS400 5Z1 needle than the original BS34 5HX12 .....
Also, the kit main jets may not do you much good as they are the stock 132.5 size. With the exhaust being changed, you may need bigger ones, 135 or 137.5.
Here are those kit needles (Y265 and Y267) compared to some originals. The Y267 is pretty much a copy of the 5O2 needle used in the '78-'79 carb set .....
The taper on the Y265 more closely matches an XS400 5Z1 needle than the original BS34 5HX12 .....
Also, the kit main jets may not do you much good as they are the stock 132.5 size. With the exhaust being changed, you may need bigger ones, 135 or 137.5.
Sudonate91
XS650 Addict
So. Got everything back together. New battery. Turn the key - nothing. No lights no horn no indication it's getting any power.
It doesn't seem like the clutch is working either. If I hold in the clutch and try to kick it - and it's in gear - it tries to move the back wheel.
Regardless. I out it in nuetral and gave her some kicks. The kicks are very passive as if not much is going on. Looks like im back to square one - this will be alot harder.
It doesn't seem like the clutch is working either. If I hold in the clutch and try to kick it - and it's in gear - it tries to move the back wheel.
Regardless. I out it in nuetral and gave her some kicks. The kicks are very passive as if not much is going on. Looks like im back to square one - this will be alot harder.
Last edited:
Have you checked to see if an XS650 sprocket will fit your rear hub. I mentioned this i an earlier post. Your sprocket bolt holes need to be measured and someone will help out and measure theirs..........May not be an XS650 wheel but if the XS650 sprocket bolts on then all that is needed is new spokes
On that wheel the hub is XS650 so if you want to go back to 16" then you need to buy a new16" rim. Have to buy spokes as is so it is a matter of deciding on what way you want to go
On that wheel the hub is XS650 so if you want to go back to 16" then you need to buy a new16" rim. Have to buy spokes as is so it is a matter of deciding on what way you want to go
It doesn't seem like the clutch is working either. If I hold in the clutch and try to kick it - and it's in gear - it tries to move the back wheel.
Regardless. I out it in nuetral and gave her some kicks. The kicks are very passive as if not much is going on. Looks like im back to square one - this will be alot harder.[/QUOTE]
Follow the lead from the battery + the first fuse you find check that it is there and look further if so
On the left side of the block is small cylindrical cover ca 1. 5 inch in diameter can be seen in post # 66
you can pry it out with a screwdriver from under
In there is the clutch adjustment a Phillips looking screw locked with a nut
Loosen the nut and turn the screw counter clockwise this will make the clutch free
Do this in neutral be a bit careful since it is not a Phillips. it is a JIS most likely
See if this makes a difference in kick resistance
If so try to start ( If power is up ) which can take a while after a carburetor rebuild.
And post what happens
Regardless. I out it in nuetral and gave her some kicks. The kicks are very passive as if not much is going on. Looks like im back to square one - this will be alot harder.[/QUOTE]
Follow the lead from the battery + the first fuse you find check that it is there and look further if so
On the left side of the block is small cylindrical cover ca 1. 5 inch in diameter can be seen in post # 66
you can pry it out with a screwdriver from under
In there is the clutch adjustment a Phillips looking screw locked with a nut
Loosen the nut and turn the screw counter clockwise this will make the clutch free
Do this in neutral be a bit careful since it is not a Phillips. it is a JIS most likely
See if this makes a difference in kick resistance
If so try to start ( If power is up ) which can take a while after a carburetor rebuild.
And post what happens
Sudonate91
XS650 Addict
Follow the lead from the battery + the first fuse you find check that it is there and look further if so
On the left side of the block is small cylindrical cover ca 1. 5 inch in diameter can be seen in post # 66
you can pry it out with a screwdriver from under
In there is the clutch adjustment a Phillips looking screw locked with a nut
Loosen the nut and turn the screw counter clockwise this will make the clutch free
Do this in neutral be a bit careful since it is not a Phillips. it is a JIS most likely
See if this makes a difference in kick resistance
If so try to start ( If power is up ) which can take a while after a carburetor rebuild.
And post what happens[/QUOTE]
There is a blown fuse. Its a jumble of inline fuses so I didnt spent much time tracing them. I will look into the clutch adjustment. For now I am defeated. I took the battery back out and stored her in the little home I made for her. I was so eager to see her start
. I will upload all the pictures I took to my google album. Carb rebuild was fun and easier than expected. In retrospect, I think I will need to replace some vacuum hoses. The one that looks like a spin down to the bottom of the air boxes.
Sudonate91
XS650 Addict
Some highlights of the of the carb rebuild. I did a really bad job documenting this. Was too eager to get it back on the bike. You can see some updated photos in my album https://photos.app.goo.gl/apRrYDuJB16yrt3SA. Feel free to subscribe to it by pressing the + (plus) sign on the top under the header.
XS' clutches do get "stuck" from sitting. It is a fairly commonly heard question. When I encountered this on a 79 I kicked started the bike up on centerstand, rear wheel spinning too. Then "broke the clutch loose" rather easily with the rear brake..
Sudonate91
XS650 Addict
Dang, if only i had a center stand. If there is no power (no lights, horn, dials, ect) - should it still kick start if the key is turned on?
Doesn't sound like its going to spark. Can you check for spark? Extra plug laying around or remove one? Ground it against a cooling fin and kick it over with the key on?
Well, clutch is still stuck 
so kicking it over won't work huh..
so kicking it over won't work huh..
Sudonate91
XS650 Addict
If I get it in neutral - I can make the full motion of a kick. Its just very very lax. Does the clutch mechanism have to be engaged for anything to happen (sorry for my ignorance this is a huge learning process).Well, clutch is still stuck
Clutch lever "end play" ? About 1/8" minimum at the clutch perch. Seem like there is cable "end play" up there?
Tells you that the clutch is set reasonably close.
Tells you that the clutch is set reasonably close.
