My rebuild journey. (old title: Future owner - Help me identify this 650.)

Clutch lever "end play" ? About 1/8" minimum at the clutch perch. Seem like there is cable "end play" up there?
Tells you that the clutch is set reasonably close.
The level itself doesnt have any play. I mean, when I kick the bike - the kick lever is loose. I can make the full kick motion very very 'casually'
 
The level itself doesnt have any play. I mean, when I kick the bike - the kick lever is loose. I can make the full kick motion very very 'casually'

I am 110 % certain --- Since I did that this summer after a rebuild that Exactly that phenomena Occurs if the adjuster at the side cover is to far in
I turned it loose and could kick start it -- 120 % certain
In my case --- it can of Course be something else in this case. Worm gear or sticking plates what do i Know.
Thinking out loud if the plates are stuck would not putting it in gear and pushing the bike back and forth a while then get them loose.
On another note that side cover is not that difficult to take off. Simpler than the other side.
But again in my case 110 % -- 120 % Certain that the pushrod was to far in
Once it runs readjustment can be done.
 
The kick starter transmits it's turning force through the clutch to get to and turn over the motor itself (crank). If the clutch is pulled in (disengaged) or possibly in your case, adjusted too tight, the kick starter won't turn the motor over, it will just push through it's stroke.
 
Stupid question. Can you start this bike without a battery? Can I turn the key on and kick away? Or does it need a charge to complete come circuit driven mechanism?

Also another stupid question. I remember when I was young 'push starting' dirt bikes and 4 wheelers. Is that applicable with this bike if I fixed the cluch?
 
Stupid question. Can you start this bike without a battery? Can I turn the key on and kick away? Or does it need a charge to complete come circuit driven mechanism?

Also another stupid question. I remember when I was young 'push starting' dirt bikes and 4 wheelers. Is that applicable with this bike if I fixed the cluch?

Only if it has an aftermarket PMA alternator. The stock alternator has no way to "ramp up".
The stock TCI ignition really likes a healthy 12 volts before it will rouse itself and send a spark signal. So a fully charged 12 volt battery of adequate size if it's going to spin the starter motor and make sparks at the same time.
 
Is that applicable with this bike if I fixed the cluch
Here is a thought since you are quite eager (understandably) to hear it run.
Clutch is stuck, no centerstand. If it is ready to start? You could undo the chain masterlink and see if it will kick start? Engine running, maybe the clutch would free up.
 
Since the kicker works through the clutch, you can usually free up a stuck clutch by pulling in the lever and kicking the bike multiple times. It may require lots of kicks, like 10 to 12 or more, but eventually this usually breaks the clutch free.

But as far as starting the bike goes, I don't think you'll have any luck until you figure out your lack of power issue. Time to start tracing power and checking fuses. Here's a simplified drawing showing the power path and fuses .....

050OLGl.jpg


It's also possible that the ignition switch itself is at fault, all dirty and crusty inside and not allowing power to pass through.
 
Since the kicker works through the clutch, you can usually free up a stuck clutch by pulling in the lever and kicking the bike multiple times. It may require lots of kicks, like 10 to 12 or more, but eventually this usually breaks the clutch free.

But as far as starting the bike goes, I don't think you'll have any luck until you figure out your lack of power issue. Time to start tracing power and checking fuses. Here's a simplified drawing showing the power path and fuses .....

050OLGl.jpg


It's also possible that the ignition switch itself is at fault, all dirty and crusty inside and not allowing power to pass through.
Yeah I bought a heater for my garage. Time to sit and trace wires. I'm thinking that if I'm going to do that - I might as well replace the entire wire harness array with the $60 one from xs. Give me some peace of mind. I heard some very brittle wires with the little I worked with them so far. Also it comes with a fuse box it looks like, which I want to replace anyway.
 
:rolleyes:
The level itself doesnt have any play. I mean, when I kick the bike - the kick lever is loose. I can make the full kick motion very very 'casually'
As was already pointed out, that tends to indicate your clutch is disengaged... which is damned odd for a bike that's sat. Usually they stick engaged. I think what I'd do is remove the left cover (with the clutch cable in it) and see if it'll kick over then. If that works, there's a problem in the clutch actuation system somewhere. If it stays disengaged, it's an internal problem with the clutch itself.
 
Boys... I'm the biggest idiot ever... What's wrong with this picture?
PXL_20201218_021907423.jpg



I was putting the terminals on backwards! This battery is swapped compared to the old one. And I just assumed. Wasn't until I traced the ground to the frame.... Gosh I hope I don't cause too much damage. I also need to figure out how to extend the positive temporarily
 
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