Need help setting bead on tire.

Jmiller057

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I have a mag wheel and I'm running a k70 Dunlop tube type tire on the front and I can't seem to get the tire to seal on the wheel 100%. There is a small portion on each side of the wheel where the tire is stuck in the V-shape part of the rim and won't pop out to the side to seal.

Does anyone know a trick how to get the tire to seal all the way around?

I've searched on here and only discovered the same techniques I have already tried (bounce wheel & tire, over inflate the tube, lubercation, ratchet the center of the tire, etc.) Hell, I've even tried running the tube with super low air pressure then took the bike around the block hoping the constant pressure and movement might cause the tire to seal.

Still no luck. I've never had this much trouble with one tire.

Any help, tips, or techniques would be much appreciated.
 
I have a mag wheel and I'm running a k70 Dunlop tube type tire on the front and I can't seem to get the tire to seal on the wheel 100%. There is a small portion on each side of the wheel where the tire is stuck in the V-shape part of the rim and won't pop out to the side to seal.

Does anyone know a trick how to get the tire to seal all the way around?

I've searched on here and only discovered the same techniques I have already tried (bounce wheel & tire, over inflate the tube, lubercation, ratchet the center of the tire, etc.) Hell, I've even tried running the tube with super low air pressure then took the bike around the block hoping the constant pressure and movement might cause the tire to seal.

Still no luck. I've never had this much trouble with one tire.

Any help, tips, or techniques would be much appreciated.
.................... hi you could try smearing some grease around both sides of the tyre beading it does work and may work in this instance regards oldbiker
 
In the electrical aisle at the local hardware or bigbox store is wire pulling lubricant. Pop, Pop, done. I use it to put tires on all the time. (well it's always worked for me) In the past I've had a couple of those fight me too. This time of year it's not usually an issue but warm tires help, leave it in the sun for an hour, lube then inflate.
 
Try the other suggestions, but you also have to make sure the sealing surface of the rim is clean, smooth, and in good condition.
 
I appreciate all the info!

WD40 always does the trick on the bead for me.

hi you could try smearing some grease around both sides of the tyre beading it does work and may work in this instance regards oldbiker

lube the beads with with tire soap, pump it up to 40psi, leave it sit over night

but you also have to make sure the sealing surface of the rim is clean, smooth, and in good condition.

I re-cleaned the surface with some window cleaner again then went ahead and greased the side of the tire with a little extra help from soapy water. I inflated the tube to 35psi and the one side popped on. I'm gonna let it sit at 40 psi over night and hope for the best.

n the electrical aisle at the local hardware or bigbox store is wire pulling lubricant

If it isn't on by morning, I'm gonna let the tire and wheel sit in the sun all morning while I run to the hardware store for some pulling lubricant.

Thanks everyone.
 
Petroleum products should NEVER be applied to a tire to set the bead, or for any other reason except alcohol used to remove brake fluid.

Whatever is used for mounting tires should dissipate and dry, preferably being water soluble.
 
Ditto. Petroleum products accelerate rubber rot. We only used soapy water, sparingly. Have also gone up to 60 psi to seat beads.

It's been a long time, but I seem to recall an advisory back then cautioning against mix/match of tube and tubeless tires on tube and tubeless rims. I believe the bead seat profiles were different, and would cause bead seat problems. But the advisory was mostly concerned about using tube tires on tubeless wheels and trying to run tubeless, risk of poor beadseat and leakage.

Unfortunately, I don't know what has happened over the years concerning if bead seat profiles have changed. Personally, I don't see an issue with your combination if you're running a tube. Just want it to seat evenly all around.

You could try polishing the bead seat corner where the tire bead tries to ride up to the final seat...
 
Not sure what exactly is in pulling lube but it's very gentle stuff, water based no one wants wire to deteriorate inside of conduit.

Here's the MSDS for Ideal #77 which is very popular

PRODUCT NAME OR NUMBER (as it appears on label)
YELLOW 77® Wire Pulling Lubricant
CATALOG NUMBER
All “31” Series
MANUFACTURER’S NAME
IDEAL INDUSTRIES, INC.
EMERGENCY TELEPHONE NO.
(815) 895-5181
ADDRESS (Number, Street, City, State, Zip Code)
Becker Place, Sycamore, IL 60178
HAZARDOUS MATERIAL DESCRIPTION, PROPER SHIPPING NAME, HAZARD CLASS, HAZARD CLASS, HAZARD ID NO. (49 CFR 172.101)
None
CHEMICAL DESCRIPTION
Water-Wax Emulsion
FORMULA
Proprietary
SECTION I - INGREDIENTS
CAS REGISTRY NO. %
W
CHEMICAL NAME(S)*
Listed as a carcinogen
in NTP, I ARC or OSHA
1910(z) (specify)
7732-18-5 <9
0
Water No
9005-08-7 <4 Polyethylene Glycol Ester No
61791-44-4 <1 Ethoxylated Tallow Amine No
91-64-5 / 8007-00-9 <0
.1
Perfume No
8042-47-5
24838-91-8
<1 Acrylamide Sodium Acrylate Copolymer
with Trideceth-6
No
52-51-7 <0
.1
11
Antimicrobial Agent No
1934-21-0 <0
.1
Yellow Pigment no
 
This is my new weapon of choice, works great. It's also a rubber cleaner and treatment. Wiping the sidewalls down with it after mounting makes the new tires look just that. I had used a mix of dish washing soap and water for years, finally upgraded to something I feel is better .....

RuGLYDE.jpg
 
I've always heard this, but have always worn my tires out long before any such thing as rubber rot even started to show up. How long is rubber rot supposed to take? I've greased them all my life with no mishaps at all.
 
It does not rot, petroleum products swell and soften. This can disbond the vulcanization. "Rot" is typically from acids, non petroleum chemicals, and ozone.
I'll defer to my sig line on that.
The products that Gary and 5twins posted are water based, which is all that's recommended by any tire manufacturer. Most sell their own soup, but water based lubes (Yes, even KY jelly or generic forms) of any type are acceptable.
 
I've always heard this, but have always worn my tires out long before any such thing as rubber rot even started to show up. How long is rubber rot supposed to take? I've greased them all my life with no mishaps at all.

I'm sure it depends on the composition. Back in the `60s, we used to improve our slot-car traction by putting some oil on the tires, let 'em sit for a week, wash it off, and the rubber would stick to the track from the 'rubber-rot'. After awhile you could see billions of micro cracks in the rubber, it would dry/harden, then gotta toss 'em.

Usually could tell by looking closely for those fine micro cracks to develop. It was never made public, but years ago there was a mandate that you could get your tires replaced if you found these rubber-rot micro cracks on them, within a certain timeframe...

The term 'rubber-rot' is sort of an old-school generalized catch-all phrase to handle the various types of rubber deterioration. I like JD's more modern expanded clarification...
 
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This is my new weapon of choice, works great. It's also a rubber cleaner and treatment. Wiping the sidewalls down with it after mounting makes the new tires look just that. I had used a mix of dish washing soap and water for years, finally upgraded to something I feel is better .....

RuGLYDE.jpg

I agree 5Twins, this sh*t is awesome. :thumbsup::thumbsup: 1:1 ratio Ruglyde & water makes it last longer but concentrated works for the really tough jobs.
 
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