New French (blue) member

[jetmechmarty]

the connector was green from sulfate and one ot the pin

I just replaced one of those connectors and the pins. One of them corroded and the heat melted the plug. Had I not addressed it, I expect it would have led to stator replacement. Good find!

 

[AleXS]

Now the question is : do I have to replace the dead rectifier with the same item or with the so called rectifier/regulator.
I will browse that incredible forum to find the answer

 

[Raymond]

I would go for a rec/reg just for the peace of mind of modern electrics. Others will have different opinions.

 

[AleXS]

I read that there are about as many opinions there are members on this forum, ha ha ha.

I am not so good for mecanic and worse in electronic matters.

I will seek on the internet (european websites) in order to find the graal.

 

[jetmechmarty]

I would go for a rec/reg just for the peace of mind of modern electrics. Others will have different opinions.

 

[Jan_P]

I am reading this as the rectifier is bad
The more common problem is the regulator in your case it can be the stock relay type
That one should be replaced if you ask me ...I had problems with it a couple of years ago and there are others that recently ended up replacing the rotor perhaps because of that.
I like to have them separate.regulator and rectifier

 

[650Skull]

Wiring in a Combined SS Reg/Rect for an any year points model XS650
http://www.xs650.com/threads/wiring-in-a-70-79-combined-reg-rect-to-a-points-model-xs650.52339/

Alternative separate regulator and rectifier using and automotive regulator and 3 phase rectifier

Post #5, 3 phase rectifier.
http://www.xs650.com/threads/creating-a-new-regulator-rectifier-from-scratch-1980-and-up.52990/
Ebay link for 3 phase Rectifiers
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fr...09.m570.l1313&_nkw=3+phase+rectifier&_sacat=0

Here in Aus, the go to Automotive regulator for points models, is the Bosch re55 regulator...........
ebay link
https://www.ebay.com.au/sch/i.html?...fLoc=1&_osacat=0&_odkw=bosh+voltage+regulator

Post #2 Retiredgentlemans post on the US/Candian Automotive regulator for points models............these are B type regulators. May have to look for Euro alternatives
NOTE; disregard any reference to nylon screws. not applicable
http://www.xs650.com/threads/pre-1980-regulator-non-nylon-screw-version.10699/#post-109435

 

[GLJ]

My
All in one is great until one fails, then you are replacing both. I do believe replacing the mechanical regulator with solid state is a worthwhile upgrade. The rectifier I'm on the fence about. My 49 year old rectifier still works fine. Most rectifiers back then were over engineered. If I remember correctly the 1/2 life of a diode then was 89 years, mine hasn't used up 1/2 its first 1/2 life.

 

[650Skull]

Alternative is an XS/TX 500 rectifier.
Ebay link from Aus..........would need to do a Euro search

https://www.ebay.com.au/sch/i.html?...kw=yamaha+xs500&_osacat=0&_sop=1&LH_PrefLoc=1

 

[5twins]

The TX/XS500 rectifier will work but I'm not sure about the regulator. The 500 has a different style of charging system. It has no brushes or spinning rotor with slip rings. Personally, I wouldn't chance it, not since replacement automotive regulators that are known to work are readily available.

 

[650Skull]

Thanks 5T i removed the reference to the regulators

 

[AleXS]

Thanks for the so many replies.
I ordered that on an Europe representative of a US supplier (as far as I guess) website.

I should receive it within the end of the week.
I will keep posted.

 

[650Skull]

1st link in post #87 to wire the Reg/Rect

 

[AleXS]

It's up to me!

 

[AleXS]

As I expected, it does not work...

The only question I have is : does it matter to connect the white wires at the exact position they were before changing the plugs, or can they be mixed between them?
I unplugged the 6 pins connector and measured the resistance with the ohm meter calibrated M ohm.
I read between the R/R three different values between 0.5 and 0.7 ohm.
The issue is maybe the ground. I read in the Mike's explanations, that black wire could be forgotten because the R/R was dealing with it.
But as I have no current at all, I guess that the circuit is not closed.
I checked out the shematic and saw that brown wire had to be connected to the fuse box, but the 3 pins from the R/R has a green and a brown wire...
And does the oem regulator has to be removed from the frame or can I let it, just unplugged?
So I think I did my best and that I need help.

 

[jetmechmarty]

Doesn't matter.... any white to any white. Each white is one phase of a three phase stator. The rectifier doesn't care which is which.

 

[AleXS]

Thanks jetmechmarty, the remaining problems are brown and black wires

 

[Jan_P]

Have not read the posts but if this was me arriving at a Friends garage scratching his head

The first thing to check is if it is the the right regulator ..rectifier combo pre 80 and post 80 are different
Then I would measure that there is power to the Bushes on the Alternator.
Perhaps measure slip ring resistance if not already done.
And then starting to check the Bikes wiring schematics for the bike and the Reg /Rect
Pictures and Year model we can find it if not there in Mr Skulls Link
And link to the rectifier ..sales web site we can find that

 

[5twins]

These combined units only have one ground wire and it gets shared between the regulator and the rectifier. So, you needn't worry about the "missing" black ground wire in the new unit's regulator plug. The new regulator will get it's ground from the ground wire in the new rectifier plug.

 

[AleXS]

The ref I ordered is OK, according to the Yamaha ref.
Do I have to follow the schematic I join, i. e. plugging the brown wire on the red coming from the battery?