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Hi all' thanks a lot for the warm welcome!
So, I put it back on On position and it stopped leaking. Also had to give the drain screw a little twist as I noticed it was dripping. The air filter was all rotten with the the material completely fallong apart, I would not be surprised if some pieces have been sucked into the carb.
I'm getting my registration plate next week, can't wait to take it for a ride (of the weather allows it)
Thanks for all the info on the models, very useful!
 
Great look'n standard. Correct the rear signals and keep it stock. Did you have to make it European compliant ?. We sent a couple over and had to make the full right turn on the ignition ..parking light.. functional. Dual disc wasn't required and does it have the rear 32 tooth (Euro) sprocket ?.. I convert all of my XS units and recommend.. 32.
Have you had any dealings with Investment Bikes ?... Peer ?
Well, I purchased it from an auto dealer in the Netherlands, according to the title, the bike has been registered in the NL for the first time in 1993. It is now registered as a oldtimer so no need to make it compliant to any standards, no MOT Whatsoever in Belgium for bikes (yet). I cannot tell you more about it at this point
 
Actually, a 33T sprocket was stock on the European Standard models, and it works very well with the 18" rear wheel. A 32 is a good choice if you have a 16" rear wheel.
 
And actually that's not a 447 engine, it's the very desirable European long rod motor. Can't recall the designation with confidence--503 I think? Most internals except rods and pistons (wrist pin holes in a different place) will be the same as the 447. Anyway, IMO the dark green 1978 Standard is the best looking motorcycle of the XS650 seies. I'm green with envy--congrats!
 
Most internals except rods and pistons (wrist pin holes in a different place) will be the same as the 447.

Hmmmm....regardless of the origin of this particular bike, Grizld1, I’d be really interested in learning why Yamaha build different engines for the Euro market.

Anything you can tell us about that?

Pete

PS - I agree with you on the green - a very smart looking bike indeed.
 
Right you are, Jim; according to the VIN, that would be a US Standard with a 447 motor. The dual discs and Dutch provenance threw me a ringer; thanks for the correction.

Pete, the long rod 256 motors (with performance rods, not the OE bits with weak small ends) tended to be favored by US flat track race builders. The reason why gets into considerations of physics that make my poor brain lock up, requiring a 30 minute shut-down and reboot. European buyers were expected to run the bike more in high speed highway use, thus the 33 tooth rear sprocket and OE dual discs. The choice of rod geometry was probably made for the same reason. Maybe 2M, Jack, mrrigs, Craig Weeks, or another member with a better handle on the physics will chime in.
 
Maybe 2M, Jack, mrrigs, Craig Weeks, or another member with a better handle on the physics will chime in.
I wish someone would. This long rod deal has always befuddled the hell outta me.... Longer rod means more weight. More weight means more reciprocating mass. More reciprocating mass means more vibration. That's the down side... so I've often wondered... since it's obviously done, exactly what the hell is the up side?
 
I wish someone would. This long rod deal has always befuddled the hell outta me.... Longer rod means more weight. More weight means more reciprocating mass. More reciprocating mass means more vibration. That's the down side... so I've often wondered... since it's obviously done, exactly what the hell is the up side?

Hi Jim,
longer rods ain't necessarily heavier, not if they are designed right.
The longer rod's advantage is that it operates at a smaller angle than a shorter rod so that more of the piston's
downward force is transmitted to the crankpin and less is wasted rubbing the piston sideways onto the cylinder bore.
But of course, "the devil is in the details" The long rod advantage only exists if the engine design is done right.
 
Thanks Fred. After that explanation I'm sittin' here wondering why I didn't figure that out myself.....
Now I understand it, you're right, the devil is indeed in the details... Sounds like the gains (if any) would be minimal. A tenth of a second on the track would be huge... not so much in every day use.
Thanks again!
 
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Yup,Fred’s got it. I hadn’t considered the higher speed limits in Europe - but that makes sense too.

Physics - the bain of my students existence!

Thanks!

Pete
 
Check the disc diameter. The single disc on the U.S. models was larger than the dual discs fitted to the Euro models. The U.S. model's single disc had a 298mm diameter. I'm pretty sure the Euro discs were the same as used on the rear disc set-ups, 267mm diameter. If you have 2 of the larger discs then it is most likely a converted U.S. single disc model. They look like the larger discs in your pics.
 
It's not just that the front brake rotors are the smaller rotors it also means the front fork outer is different as well............where the caliper mounts on the front fork it is lower to compensate for the smaller rotor.

If by any chance your front fork lowers get damaged you need to be aware of the difference between the Euro front fork and the rest of the world.
US..............................................Euro
fol2F0_7.jpgxs650F-3.jpg

3_stock_rods copy.jpg
 
And actually that's not a 447 engine, it's the very desirable European long rod motor. Can't recall the designation with confidence--503 I think? Most internals except rods and pistons (wrist pin holes in a different place) will be the same as the 447. Anyway, IMO the dark green 1978 Standard is the best looking motorcycle of the XS650 seies. I'm green with envy--congrats!
Thanks, the colour really convinced me to buy the bike. I must admit I have little to no experience with the model. I sort of discovered it while looking for something else, but I reqlly fell for the look and the ride
 
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Hi all,
Here are a few more pics of my xs 650 e. Sorry for the scenery but I haven't had the chance to take it out since I bought it due to bad weather.
The bike looks nice overall but it will need some work on the electrical system. The battery is not standard and the wiring must be made cleaner, although overall I find the whole wiring in pretty good shape. The only thing that really needs attention(so far) is the starting system. For some reasons, the starter relay is gone and I don't know id the starter motor works or not. The air filter have been now replaced so ahve the oil filter (not the sump one) has it seems the gasket have been sealed and I was not sure how to clean the surface before reinstalling so I preferred to be lazy and keep this for the next oil change. The bikes looks quite orignal but trained eyes lîe yours will probably point out some non standard mods. To be honest, loving pretty mechanics doesn't make me an expert and I will probably ask a trusful pro to have the starter fixed as I'm pretty sure there is a good reason why this relay is missing and the problem can be anywhere. Maybe you have an explanation but I don't thin the previous owner wanted a kickstart only bike.
 

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