New to 650s

[retiredgentleman]

To add further to what 5twins was saying. A few years back, one lad was taking out the tach drive shaft in the right cover, and thought he would also remove the large gear to save more weight. Well he got 200 miles before the engine blew up. It shows how tough these engines are, They can even run for a while with no oil pumping.

 

[650Skull]

the last post in a page often get overlooked so i have reposted post #20..........it has relevant information and a caution......Pics included

Hey Chris, Engines and heads are assembled then the holes are bored in them. this is why they number the individual components for matching.............when they bore the holes there is a slight difference between every engine may only be a mm or so..........Yes it has been done before, and in some cases, (pun), they will be so close to a match a seal can be formed...................in other cases they can't and may as well be called Triumphs..........These mismatch's don't look much but a seal wont work on these.


View attachment 105748 View attachment 105749 View attachment 105750
also note in the first pic the sealant used on the rocker cover has blobs protruding into the engine...........one of those breaks off and gets stuck in an oil gallery the engine is going to get cooked somewhere.........if it is in the oil feed to the crank it is a complete rebuild..........


On the Tach drive, i always tell people to keep the Tach........... If the Tach stops working on a ride.....stop....check to see if the cable is damaged/broken, if the cable is your probably good to carry on...........If the cable isn't broken/damaged, it means the oil pump is.......get a truck...........the Tacho give you a heads up............

will have to go back to the previous page for pics

 

[Chris fertig]

Ok. So I stared digging through boxes and found some matching numbers so I'm good there. Thanks for the info on that guys. Now I just have electrical questions. I upgraded to a PMA charging system and got a Pamco ignition with forward advance. Do I need the factory harness to hook all that up?

 

[Chris fertig]

Ok. So I stared digging through boxes and found some matching numbers so I'm good there. Thanks for the info on that guys. Now I just have electrical questions. I upgraded to a PMA charging system and got a Pamco ignition with forward advance. Do I need the factory harness to hook all that up?

I forgot to mention everything electrical on the bike got tossed before I bought it.

 

[Shipper]

The cable attaches to the top of that long rod. The crank turns the oil pump, the oil pump turns the tach drive rod, and the rod turns the cable .....

The cable operates the tach, the instrument itself. It doesn't turn or operate anything down in the case. All that stuff is what makes the cable spin.

Hey Twins,

Currently servicing the oil pump filter etc. Anything in particular I shpould not on reassembly, etc. oil on the gasket etc. Plus, I'm assuming 3 and 2 in the diagram above are the seals? Hard to get the threaded piece out of the stalk.

 

[5twins]

Yes, 3 and 2 are the seals. #3 is an actual oil seal. It seals around the spinning tach rod. #2 is an o-ring. It seals that sleeve #1 into the case. Yes, I oil the gasket with motor oil before installing the cover. I think it helps keep the gasket from sticking so you can remove the cover next time without damage to the gasket. You can usually remove/install the cover several times using the same gasket before it needs replacing.

 

[Shipper]

Yes, 3 and 2 are the seals. #3 is an actual oil seal. It seals around the spinning tach rod. #2 is an o-ring. It seals that sleeve #1 into the case. Yes, I oil the gasket with motor oil before installing the cover. I think it helps keep the gasket from sticking so you can remove the cover next time without damage to the gasket. You can usually remove/install the cover several times using the same gasket before it needs replacing.

 

[Shipper]

Cool, done. Now, how far down do you screw the threaded/slot nut that holds the ball bearing against the spring for pressure release. Seems to me you tighten it all the way down but want to make sure as oil flow is rather critical.

 

[5twins]

If you're talking about that screw in the oil filter bolt, just run it in flush with the bolt head, don't tighten it in all the way. This is something that isn't covered in any of the manuals anywhere that I've ever seen. The info comes from a poster several years ago who bought one of these new and that's how he found the screw set from the factory. It can't back out or fall out, even though it's not fully tight, because the filter cover is there blocking it.

 

[Shipper]

If you're talking about that screw in the oil filter bolt, just run it in flush with the bolt head, don't tighten it in all the way. This is something that isn't covered in any of the manuals anywhere that I've ever seen. The info comes from a poster several years ago who bought one of these new and that's how he found the screw set from the factory. It can't back out or fall out, even though it's not fully tight, because the filter cover is there blocking it.

Really glad I asked as my impression was to tighten down. Thanks Twins.

One my question, (at least for the moment). I had to destroy the seal on the tach shaft that goes inside the cover piece under the slotted screw down piece. My thinking is the new seal has the cup facing the engine but not sure.

 

[5twins]

Yes, open side faces in. Tap it down into the sleeve. If you don't get it completely in all the way, tightening that slotted screw down on top of it should finish seating it.

 

[Shipper]

Yes, open side faces in. Tap it down into the sleeve. If you don't get it completely in all the way, tightening that slotted screw down on top of it should finish seating it.

Great, again - done. Use sealer on both sides of the cap gasket or just the cover side for easy removal?

 

[5twins]

I'm not sure what you mean by cap gasket.

 

[Shipper]

I'm not sure what you mean by cap gasket.

As per pic.

 

[5twins]

I use no sealer there, just oil it. You especially don't want to seal that one in place. It would be an absolute bear to remove that cover next time if you did. If just oiled, that particular gasket will last almost indefinitely. I don't think I've ever needed to change mine after installing the new one something like 10 years ago. Do keep a spare on hand though. You never know what may happen to it during one of the removals. It just may decide to tear on you, and most likely on a Sunday when the shops are closed, lol.

 

[Shipper]

I use no sealer there, just oil it. You especially don't want to seal that one in place. It would be an absolute bear to remove that cover next time if you did. If just oiled, that particular gasket will last almost indefinitely. I don't think I've ever needed to change mine after installing the new one something like 10 years ago. Do keep a spare on hand though. You never know what may happen to it during one of the removals. It just may decide to tear on you, and most likely on a Sunday when the shops are closed, lol.

Ya, that's why I ask. Took me hours to peel the old one off the cap and the cover. Ill follow your advice on just oiling. How do you like the newly shined cover/cap? Did both covers.

Thanks for the good advice (as always) Twins.

 

[5twins]

Oh, I just love polished alloy. I like the look better than chrome even. To remove old, stuck on gaskets, use paint stripper. A couple applications will pretty much melt the old gasket right off, you barely have to scrape. And that's a good thing because you avoid any damage to the sealing surfaces that way.

 

[Shipper]

Oh, I just love polished alloy. I like the look better than chrome even. To remove old, stuck on gaskets, use paint stripper. A couple applications will pretty much melt the old gasket right off, you barely have to scrape. And that's a good thing because you avoid any damage to the sealing surfaces that way.

Cool. Ill keep the stripper tip in mind but for now oil the gasket. The covers look terrific. When she back together I'll put out a pic. New wheels, spokes, polished covers, powder coat - looks like its right out of the box. Thanks again brother.