Newbies and Top End

[Rlauchard]

Thanks weekend....so it sounds ok to you?

Are you referring to the tank in the background? It's a bit of orange/rust/gold with a grey stripe influenced by Rude's build. So yes, that's my end goal.

Thanks by the way for your support and help through all this...and that really goes for everyone...this was truly a community project.

I have to update on what you mentioned earlier about it not running well...you were right. I really can't believe the throttle responsiveness now, and the fact that it starts up. Also, when I did my 'first' timing check, I was so green...a year ago...that I thought the T was the timing mark (because that's where it was falling on my timing last year). Then last night, it was on the F mark and I thought I fracked up...turned to the manual, and found out that this is correct, which means I got my camshaft markings and chain on right. I have to say...I am one jolly SOB today!

 

[weekendrider]

You should be stoked! And the little bride should have extras on the supper table to celebrate.
Yes I was talking about the tank. I think the color looks good.
It still seems a little noisy to me and the response could be quicker, but I'm not THERE so take my opinion with two grains of salt.

 

[Rlauchard]

There is some noise...now that I have it in, I want to warm it up today and adjust the cam chain. Then cool it and re-check the valves. The muffler is attached at the head, but floating free other than that...might be contributing a bit. Any other ideas as to noise cause is of course greatly appreciated!

 

[deadchef]

she sounds a bit chatty to me but it's tough to judge from a youtube vid. just double check you cam chain tension and valves. as long as there is no excessive smoking, break her in nice and easy.

congrats!

 

[retiredgentleman]

There is some noise...now that I have it in, I want to warm it up today and adjust the cam chain. Then cool it and re-check the valves. The muffler is attached at the head, but floating free other than that...might be contributing a bit. Any other ideas as to noise cause is of course greatly appreciated!

Besides the cam chain tension, and the valve clearances, another thing that can make a tapping noise, is if the "damper" is missing from the cam chain tensioner. It was missing on my bike, so I just used an old copper washer I had on hand.

 

[Rlauchard]

HAHAHA,

retiredgentlemen....do you have that as a saved copy/paste? I've read that in so many other threads! Now I get to ask about it!

So...is this like a magical thing that is not listed in the manuals (like the 5/16" ball bearing in the worm gear), or is 'damper' the piece in the manual that is labeled #21 - spring seat. I can't find a picture, but it's in the haynes manual, page 45. Fig 1.8.

If that's the case, I'm 100% sure I put it back on there, so I'm going to go check it after I get this answer.

 

[retiredgentleman]

HAHAHA,

retiredgentlemen....do you have that as a saved copy/paste? I've read that in so many other threads! Now I get to ask about it!

So...is this like a magical thing that is not listed in the manuals (like the 5/16" ball bearing in the worm gear), or is 'damper' the piece in the manual that is labeled #21 - spring seat. I can't find a picture, but it's in the haynes manual, page 45. Fig 1.8.

If that's the case, I'm 100% sure I put it back on there, so I'm going to go check it after I get this answer.

Oh, I don't think its magical. Yes, in the Haynes manual, page 45, item #21, spring seat. Its also called a damper.

 

[Rlauchard]

So...retiredgentleman,I had the damper in there...I'm embarrassed to say, but I went brain dead on my valve adjustments. Very embarrassed but when I tried to adjust the right side, I turned the crank 720...not 360....so, dumb story short...clanking was wide open valves on the right.

Now, my question...I put a copper washer and the damper in. Why? Well, the rubber had worn thru and I thought that the copper would be a bit softer. Will this hurt anything? I'm 99% sure that ill be taking it back off to remove the washer. Thoughts?

 

[XSLeo]

You use one or the other not both. The copper washer was used on some years, the rubber/steel on others. If your tensioner is set up for the copper washer and you put in the rubber/steel damper the plunger may not come out of the adjuster.
Leo

 

[trance]

I'm embarrassed to say, but I went brain dead on my valve adjustments. Very embarrassed but when I tried to adjust the right side, I turned the crank 720...not 360....so, dumb story short...clanking was wide open valves on the right.

Yeah, it was clacking a bit. Glad to hear that you found the problem right away. Sounds great!

 

[Rlauchard]

Ok...all back together...running pretty good when warmed...so next question. I put on uni foam filters and rejected to 45 pilots and 135 mains before the camshaft switch and didn't get any backfire or stumble....now I'm getting a backfire or two when she's cold...should I rejet?

Funny thing is as I'm typing...I know I know the answer....carbs are different depending on setup, try one up, one down and see how it responds.

I think the carbs will wait until I determine what exhaust and such I'm going to use...for now, I'm hanging my hat that I did a full top end rebuild...with all of you of course!

Thanks for the help....time for the next steps.

 

[Rlauchard]

So, I wanted to post another video for comparison's sake to my last. To me, the clanging is gone, but as I've said, I've introduced a backfire.

Watch the video and at the 11/12 second mark, you can visibly see a blue backfire from the uni filter.

If you have any ideas OTHER than rejetting, I would be thankful!

 

[5twins]

Put 137.5s in there. In my opinion, 135s are only good for totally stock BS34 equipped bikes. I know, that's one size larger than stock but those bikes were too lean to begin with, right from the factory. When you're close on your jetting, it's amazing the difference that just one more size change can make.

 

[Rlauchard]

5twins....I'm going to put the 137.5s in tonight. I just was reading in a couple of other posts re: mix screw setting during rejetting. I haven't touched my mix screw setting...crap.

I'm still at the roughly 3 turns out from the stock settings. If I'm at a 137.5 pilot and 45 main...is there a 'rough' estimate of turns? Just to be sure...the 'turn in' restricts flow and 'turn out' increases flow? Thanks again. Happy New Year's Eve!

 

[5twins]

Yes, turning the mix screw in restricts flow and makes the pilot circuit leaner. Turning it out increases flow and makes things richer. The older carbs (BS38s) sometimes needed as much as 1/4 turn less per pilot size increase. Your BS34s, being leaner from the factory, probably won't need as much. You may find 1/8 turn or so will do. There's really no way to say exactly. Your bike wants what it wants. You'll just have to tinker with the screws and see what setting works best. You may end up not much different than where you are now.

On the older carb sets, adjusting the mix screws was easier. You could actually hear the motor start stumbling and the idle speed drop off if you went too far in either direction with the mix screw. On the E.P.A. strangled BS34s, this doesn't happen so much. I set them relying mostly on small throttle blips. When the idle speed starts to hang high and/or is slow to return to 1200, that indicates to me that my screw settings are getting too lean. I back them out about 1/4 turn from that point - or whatever it takes to get the idle speed falling back down quickly as it should.

That's about as far as you can go with the bike at rest. Further fine tuning will need to be done through road testing and actual riding. If you get lots of popping from the exhausts on decel, open the mix screws another 1/4 turn. Do that a couple times if need be but if you start getting out in the 3.5 to 4 turns range, another pilot jet size increase may be needed.

 

[peanut]

well done Ryan!
sounds a whole lot better in the second vid. Should just need some fine tuning now to make it perfect