The "rebuild" kits are pretty much just a waste of money. Yes, you need to go through your carbs and clean them out but that usually doesn't require replacing things. You don't just change stuff out, you only do that if it's worn out.
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No spark with 18k boot, 6.3 primary and 9k secondary.
- Thread starter thunderdork
- Start date
thunderdork
XS650 Enthusiast
Okay, i'll take a stab and cleaning it tomrrow. In the meantime I read my coils again and i'm up from 9v to 12.25. I had cleaned my ignition switch. I used CLR and steel wool (couldn't find a steel brush I wasn't already using on non-copper metal). Let me know if you guys think it was an appropriate approach.
Before: Inside parts
Before: Terminal
During: Inside parts bath
During: Impromptu bath holder for the terminals. Unplugged my battery first!!!
After: Inside parts after
Before: Inside parts
Before: Terminal
During: Inside parts bath
During: Impromptu bath holder for the terminals. Unplugged my battery first!!!
After: Inside parts after
thunderdork
XS650 Enthusiast
oh, one thing I will note is take note of how the Y shaped part was in the ignition. Mine fit in either two directions. I think i got lucky when I put it back in...?
Well that's quite an improvement with the ignition switch. 3.25 voltage drop is large for sure. You're brave to use something as strong as CLR, which is an acid, to clean parts. Much safer to clean up copper switches with just a polishing compound.................I use Autosol.
If you assembled the ignition switch wrong, it just won't work and you will be re-doing it again.
You should also measure the resistance of the kill switch. Both the kill switch and the ignition switch should have 0.0 ohms each.
If you assembled the ignition switch wrong, it just won't work and you will be re-doing it again.
You should also measure the resistance of the kill switch. Both the kill switch and the ignition switch should have 0.0 ohms each.
thunderdork
XS650 Enthusiast
Okay i will. Is there a good place to test the switch without disassembled? And how would you clean it?
If you're not too far, you could try All-Tex, near breaker and I-35. There's also Frys at Parmer and Mopac. They may have the cleaner and deoxidizing grease for your switches...
thunderdork
XS650 Enthusiast
yeah, i was too lazy to make the drive. i'm in south austin so its a bit of trek. I'll look out for it next time I go there for cables and connectors. Its a great place.
I cleaned the switch, it did have some ohms of resistance, but now none. Got it started again last night. This morning, no spark again. i did test the new coil. suppose to be 4.5 ohms but its reading 6.1. i'm wondering if that's the issue. Does anybody know if there is an operating range?
I cleaned the switch, it did have some ohms of resistance, but now none. Got it started again last night. This morning, no spark again. i did test the new coil. suppose to be 4.5 ohms but its reading 6.1. i'm wondering if that's the issue. Does anybody know if there is an operating range?
Since you have been taking switches apart, have you measured the voltage at the ignition coil?
Are you testing just the coil primary by itself or through wiring/connectors also? There are tolerences in electrical items but a 4.5 ohm coil should be 5.0 or less.
thunderdork
XS650 Enthusiast
I was measuring from the two wires from the ignition coil (blue and blackwhite)
If you're sure your VOM is accurate, then you should contact the coil seller, and explain that the coil is not the 4.5 ohm coil that you requested.
If you have doubts about your VOM, you could buy a 10 ohm resistor from an electronics store to check the accuracy of your ohm meter.
If you have doubts about your VOM, you could buy a 10 ohm resistor from an electronics store to check the accuracy of your ohm meter.
When testing in the low resistance range on my el-cheapo VOM, I'll clip the two leads together and get something like 0.4 ohms, then subtract this from the actual test value...
thunderdork
XS650 Enthusiast
good called retiredgentleman and twomanyxs1bs. I tested against a 10k resistor. all 3 of my VOM's where off a bit at that low of ohms. the one the least off was 1.5ohms off so i used that and it read 6.1. So that puts me at 4.6. Should be good.
I'm just gonna do tune the whole system. Clean carbs, tension cam chain, adjust valves, re-check gaps, do the timing. If that fails I'm gonna do a relay bypass on the ignition. And if all that fails I'm gonna switch over to a pamco/PMA.
I'm just gonna do tune the whole system. Clean carbs, tension cam chain, adjust valves, re-check gaps, do the timing. If that fails I'm gonna do a relay bypass on the ignition. And if all that fails I'm gonna switch over to a pamco/PMA.
thunderdork
XS650 Enthusiast
Okay, good news. I cleaned the carbs, adjusted the floats, did a bench synch and fixed a stuck enrichment circuit rod. Now if i jumper the battery to the coil I can get it started in one kick! But then it RPM's like crazy if I rev it and stays there for 30 seconds or more.
I have it on the center stand and it still starts moving me forward just from sheer vibration. And I don't know what the nipples/stems coming out of the carburetor mounts going to the engine are for but they are spurting fire!
Still nothing if I hook the coils up to the ignition switch. Think I'm going to do the relay bypass after all. I already cleaned all the switches.
I have it on the center stand and it still starts moving me forward just from sheer vibration. And I don't know what the nipples/stems coming out of the carburetor mounts going to the engine are for but they are spurting fire!
Still nothing if I hook the coils up to the ignition switch. Think I'm going to do the relay bypass after all. I already cleaned all the switches.
I wonder if those are the vacuum nipples used for vacuum petcocks and synchronizer tools, and should be covered by rubber boots. If so, they (it) may have blown off from the backfire, or are simply missing. That'll make it run goofy...
Most electrical things such as coils have a tolerance of + or - 20%.
Things a bit more critical have a 10% tolerance.
So your 4.5 ohm coil can be from 3.6 to 5.4 ohms and still be in spec.
Your repair manual should list the tolerance along with the spec of what you are testing. Like the rotor, my factory book calls for 5.25 + or - 10%, so 4.72 to 5.77 is good.
I have two meters One when touching the leads I get 1.7 ohms, the other I get .1 to .2, it bounces back and fourth. I call it .15. On low ohm testing it's always good to check by touching the leads just before testing and subtracting what ever the reading is from the test reading to get the actual ohms. On anything that has 10 or more ohms this isn't as vital. Still not a bad idea though.
Leo
Things a bit more critical have a 10% tolerance.
So your 4.5 ohm coil can be from 3.6 to 5.4 ohms and still be in spec.
Your repair manual should list the tolerance along with the spec of what you are testing. Like the rotor, my factory book calls for 5.25 + or - 10%, so 4.72 to 5.77 is good.
I have two meters One when touching the leads I get 1.7 ohms, the other I get .1 to .2, it bounces back and fourth. I call it .15. On low ohm testing it's always good to check by touching the leads just before testing and subtracting what ever the reading is from the test reading to get the actual ohms. On anything that has 10 or more ohms this isn't as vital. Still not a bad idea though.
Leo
thunderdork
XS650 Enthusiast
Yeah, I guess those are suppose to connect to the petcocks. I ended up getting in touch with DogBunny. Awesome guy. He pointed me immediately towards th advancer. 100% correct. It is sticking. It's one thing after another 
Well you get a 35+ year old bike that has had no to very poor maintenance, you gotta expect to give it some love before it can give some love back.
It will get easier, I promise. It may take a bit more love but once you put enough in you will certainly enjoy how much you get back.
Leo
It will get easier, I promise. It may take a bit more love but once you put enough in you will certainly enjoy how much you get back.
Leo
Met DogBunny awhile back, his owner's pretty cool too, noted Austin artisan, he makes those thermometer dipsticks. And, yes, he knows bar-b-que joints!
Damm, now I'm getting hungry...
Damm, now I'm getting hungry...
thunderdork
XS650 Enthusiast
That's the word I hear. I'm up and running now thanks you y'all and him! Still need to do that relay bypass on the ignition but I can putter around now.
On a side note, in Austin, this is the order of BBQ as far as I know:
1. Franklin
2. Mueller
3. La Barbeque
4. County Line
5. Salt Lick (but only the one in Driftwood)
I'm an amateur Q smoker so I'll send him a rack of my own
On a side note, in Austin, this is the order of BBQ as far as I know:
1. Franklin
2. Mueller
3. La Barbeque
4. County Line
5. Salt Lick (but only the one in Driftwood)
I'm an amateur Q smoker so I'll send him a rack of my own
Rudy's on Research was always first on my list (mmmmmmm, bbq prime rib).
Had lunch today at The Pit BBQ here in fredburg.
Help! I've just eaten and I can't get up!
Had lunch today at The Pit BBQ here in fredburg.
Help! I've just eaten and I can't get up!
