No spark

falcn

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I'm trying to figure out if I should replace my regulator; my rectifier is corroded, I'm trying to test it but I can't find the parameters for it. Any advice
 
View attachment 244542View attachment 244543I'm trying to figure out if I should replace my regulator; my rectifier is corroded, I'm trying to test it but I can't find the parameters for it. Any advice
Welcome!

The pics you posted don't really show anything unusual or alarming. The lid can be removed to see if the contact within should be cleaned. The basic test for the regulator is verifying ~14.5VDC at the battery terminals at 2500rpm. If you need to test further, attached is a section on the charging system that includes the mechanical aspects of the regulator on the 1st page (103) and a series of resistance values for the reg. on pages 106-107
 

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  • XS CHARGING EARLY.pdf
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Welcome!

The pics you posted don't really show anything unusual or alarming. The lid can be removed to see if the contact within should be cleaned. The basic test for the regulator is verifying ~14.5VDC at the battery terminals at 2500rpm. If you need to test further, attached is a section on the charging system that includes the mechanical aspects of the regulator on the 1st page (103) and a series of resistance values for the reg. on pages 106-107
That's the thing I can't run it I can't produce a spark I did however get one tiny one today but that was the only one out of 30 trys today
 
That's the thing I can't run it I can't produce a spark I did however get one tiny one today but that was the only one out of 30 trys today
Ah, well that's a different problem that doesn't involve the regulator or the charging system.

Do ya have a fully charged battery and can you test to see if you have battery voltage at the red/white wire at the ignition coil?
 
Ok, can you test for continuity of the points wire to battery negative with the points closed (either set) and also no continuity to ground from the points wire terminal with the points open?
 
I'm sorry could you explain it another way
Im getting continuity from the negative to the red wire
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Ah again, the points have been replaced by an aftermarket transistor ignition....

Can ya post pics of the pick-ups (under the chrome cover Left side of Cyl Head) and the front of that blue box?
 
It's also possible to find a points assy and coils - perhaps cheaper (and easier to fix?):shrug:
 
My condenser is also wonky doesn't discharge or charge with a multimeter gonna try to change that out before I replace the whole kit rip
 
fully charged lead-acid battery open circuit about 12.7 volts. Under cranking load if the terminal voltage is lower than 11 or so, electronic ignitions tend to drop out. The decimals matter. So does the meter. I often test meters as I like to assume nothing.

Electrical tests generally call for a fully charged battery in good condition.
 
fully charged lead-acid battery open circuit about 12.7 volts. Under cranking load if the terminal voltage is lower than 11 or so, electronic ignitions tend to drop out. The decimals matter. So does the meter. I often test meters as I like to assume nothing.

Electrical tests generally call for a fully charged battery in good condition.
Battery is new and always on a tender when I'm not using it
 

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  • BOYER KIT00303.pdf
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