Not NEUTRAL about finding neutral getting p!##*% actually

Disassembled clutch and found
Pressure plate aligned with boss​
Push rod end with 5/16" bearing​
6 steel, 7 friction plates​
Nut-spring washer-washer-Boss​
Thick washer-needle bearing(Mikes improved?)-thin washer​
Basket-thick washer-thin washer​
Looks good to me. Don't see anything wrong?

Will check thickness of the friction plates again, warping of steel plates again and??????

Only option seem to be reassemble with the newer clutch package with the well used set plate, cushion spring and clutch plate with 6 friction plates and hope that makes a difference.
 
Oh, couple more nits: Roll the new pushrod on a flat/straight surface, look for any bend. Check ends of pushrod, don't want angled tips. Check fit of pushrod mushroom in pressure plate, look for out-of-square and offset/runout. Check for protrusion of clutch spring screws, possible contact with basket face. Look for scrape marks inside right side clutch cover, possible contact pressure plate on the inside.

After assembly, see if the worm area of the left cover flexes outward during clutch manipulation.
 
Oh, couple more nits: Roll the new pushrod on a flat/straight surface, look for any bend. Check ends of pushrod, don't want angled tips. Check fit of pushrod mushroom in pressure plate, look for out-of-square and offset/runout. Check for protrusion of clutch spring screws, possible contact with basket face. Look for scrape marks inside right side clutch cover, possible contact pressure plate on the inside.

After assembly, see if the worm area of the left cover flexes outward during clutch manipulation.

Pushrod and mushroom end all look good. Clutch spring all centered in pressure plate. No issues with pressure plate scraping on clutch cover. No flexing of worm assembly outward, screw gets pulled inward toward clutch/right side

Recap of reassembly.
Doubled checked friction plates all within spec...actually same size as new plates from Mikes. Didn't realize that the friction plate spec in my Yamaha manual is for the first version of the clutch. Should have checked the Hayes too. Got spares if I ever need them.​
Doubled checked steel plates, no warping, spent a little more time with 120 sandpaper to insure no rough spots​
Springs all within spec​
Installed bearings and washer as noted on this site using the 2/2/2 method, checked and double checked myself​
Installed friction plates and steel plates utilizing one less of each since I'm utilized the spring plated clutch basket now. Also faced all steel plates the same way​
Installed pressure plate making sure it was aligned​
Installed springs, right hand cover, left hand cover, adjusted clutch pull, test ran on center stand works perfectly so far​

Of course its pouring rain right now and I need to head out for an appointment. Will have to wait till tomorrow for a test ride.

Hope spring eternal....at least for some
 
Well got her out this morning and the good news is the spring loaded clutch basket is a bit smoother when starting out. The bad news still after about 4 miles of riding if I don't down shift or find neutral before coming to a dead stop, need to turn bike off, find neutral restart and then continue....what a pain. Shifts fine otherwise. For the hell of it will pull the tank later and put on the original clutch cable. Going to wait till later today as there are a couple of garage sales going on and almost got clipped three times already while testing the bike out on my street. Glad I still have eyes in my head, there are just to many today who drive on autopilot. Don't what to push my luck.
 
Put on original clutch cable...readjusted and no change within 4 miles no longer could shift at a dead stop.

Came home put bike on center stand, and with no weight on back end can shift, find neutral, no problems at all. Take bike down, go for a ride, stop, try to shift, and it acts like it is totally frozen, can't shift with foot or even pull with my hand.

Tried readjusting clutch worm screw while hot moving it 1/8 of a turn in and out 180 degrees in both directions, went for a ride after each adjustment...no noticeable change.

Did notice that when my clutch cable is attached to the worm screw lever it no longer is in the position as indicated in post #18, but is lever is close to being parallel to the ground with the spring tensioned. Assuming this is correct unless both of my clutch cables are to short?

Other thoughts:

Know there are many posts about using the correct oil. Could the friction plates be damaged by the PO use of the wrong type of oil? Have a new set of plates but hate to trash them when these look OK. Would have thought by now any previous oil would have been replaced. Should I try a thinner oil?
 
As far as I know, there's no solution to your problem. It's just one of the 650's "quirks". I've simply gotten into the habit of selecting neutral before I come to a full stop. Carry your old clutch cable with you as a spare because that new one from Mikes will break in short order, they're junk. I got 4 or 5K out of mine which from all reports is very good. Some get only 3 or 400 miles.
 
Thanks for maybe the best suggestions so far as to grin and bear it as this doesn't seem to have a solution. I have the old cable installed right now so I'll carry Mikes as a backup for now.
 
Try stretching out the neutral detent spring. It's under that big 7/8 bolt on top of the crankcase. I had a neutral problem and this helped a lot. Stretched it out a little and I added two small washers in there to compress it further. This was a tip from PamcoPete a few years ago and has served me well.
 
Try stretching out the neutral detent spring. It's under that big 7/8 bolt on top of the crankcase. I had a neutral problem and this helped a lot. Stretched it out a little and I added two small washers in there to compress it further. This was a tip from PamcoPete a few years ago and has served me well.

Actually did try stretching it out a bit, but will try the washer trick. For now will try to get a couple of miles on the bike and try to enjoy it.
Thanks
 
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