Notching the neck tube for tapered bearings

[weekendrider]

When installing tapered neck bearings is the ease of later removal a concern for you?
If you cut/grind notches would you place them at 12 & 6, 3 & 9, 4 & 10 positions or would you place them some other place not directly across from each other?

 

[Crashomon]

worked in a metric only bike shop for 8 years and this was never approached at all as a concern.

 

[gggGary]

I like drilling a small hole from the corner of the race bore up and out at an angle, a small drift down that hole will allow removal of the race later. This will also work to remove an installed race with no removal method done. Drill in 'til you hit the race then use a drift through the hole to tap it out of the bore. Drill two holes, one each side of the neck if needed.

 

[5twins]

I saw you mention drilling holes in another thread but just can't picture it. Are you drilling these from the outside into the inside of the neck? If they exit on the outside of the neck, do you plug them in any way when not in use?

I didn't notch my neck way back when I installed my bearings, but I can see the benefit. I had never heard of doing it. I think I would try something today, unless the blind hole bearing puller I just got would grab them, that would be even better.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/191569835474

 

[rusty rocket]

Pictures we need pictures ggGary!!!

 

[zzblazezz]

I bought a small cutter at lowes for my dremel tool. I only paid about $5 and it made quick work of cutting (grinding) a notch at the 3 and 6 o'clock positions. Not much material removed. Just enough to fit a punch. Easily remove bearings with a long punch. I did this so I can remove races for powder coating.

 

[TwoManyXS1Bs]

I'm on the fence. Haven't looked into it closely enough. Don't like the idea of weakening a structural area on a raked neck. Might look into a home-fabbed expanding mandrel puller. ArticXS's method is a great plan 'B':

http://www.xs650.com/forum/showthread.php?t=26199

 

[gggGary]

This neck hasn't been drilled but going in at about 45 degrees straight into the notch will allow you to tap out the race. I guess the best part of this is you can drill if you ever need to remove the race, so it's no big deal to just put in the tapered races, you CAN get them out later.





If the hole bothers you it would be easy enough to MIG it shut after the race is out.
or a dab of sealant to keep water out.

Yes necessity was the mother of this "invention". Fork and races ended up going on a different frame.

 

[JayR]

I used my dremel to notch the inside head tube at 12 & 6. Right above the race ridge and Just enough to to get a punch etc to catch an edge of the new inside race if needed.

I FUBARed my first attempt at a rear hub bearing replacement so I figured I'd take the extra time on the neck tube. Luckily all went in well, but for DIY newbies like me a good insurance policy in case you F it up.

 

[zzblazezz]

Just to clarify... I ground (cut) down the material from the inside like JayR said. Just enough to have a punch capture the edge of the race.

 

[Signal]

Tapered bearings don’t need replacing very often. But when you need to, run a bead of arc weld on the inside of the race on the bearing surface in a few places. As the weld cools it shrinks the race and they come out easily.

 

[chizler62]

If you own the bike long enough to wear out a tapered bearing race.

You're too old to ride it.

 

[650Skull]

Basically its a............... if you know about it doesn't hurt to do it and who knows when/if a bearing could be defective

 

[grizld1]

It's easy to remove tapered roller bearing races with a small 2-jaw puller set up to grip on expansion. Maybe it's just a matter of personal attitude, but IMO choosing the right tool for the job is a better practice than chewing up your bike to fit the tool at hand.

 

[fredintoon]

Where's the button that sez:-
I would have if I'd thought about it at the time, eh?
And chizler, I was considered too old to be riding back when I did the tapered roller install, and that was a long time ago.

 

[weekendrider]

Sorry for the lack of forethought Fred.
You are right a third choice should have available.

 

[XSLeo]

I didn't on mine. But I do think it's a good idea.
On using a puller, the race is smaller than the area it sets into. No place to get a grip. I can't see how a puller would work.
You can always run a bead of weld around the bearing surface on the race. This contracts the race enough they often just fall out. Of course this ruins the race for reuse, but it will get it out.
On drilling holes into the neck. If done right the race will seal the hole.
Leo

 

[grizld1]

Leo, I've extracted tapered roller bearing seats from XS650 and other steering heads this way a few times over the years, and I can absolutely guarantee that if you're using a light duty slide hammer puller with very small jaws assembled to point out and to expand as you tweak the threaded rod, you'll find enough gap to grab. It's never failed me and it's never deformed a race.

 

[XSLeo]

Next time I need to remove a race I'll try that.
Leo

 

[grizld1]

The trick is to feel carefully for the seam between the race and the neck as you tighten the jaws; no need to go Neolithic on it.