Oil Coolers

My setup cost £90 all in, most expensive parts were the anodised Goodrige fittings.. Still reckon its best to have all the oilways kept internal like that
 
any pics of the opened up left side cover?

attachment.php
 
I thought the rain would be a problem so I used to carry some duct tap under the seat.....rain seems to hurt nothing.....many miles I have been stuck in the rain unfortunately and it never seemed to bother anything....don't even pay close attention when I wash it anymore.....car alternators are open.........and it sure runs cooler open........I have 65 thousand on the new rotor that came with the bike 11 years ago and it's always been open......Differences as measured in the temperatures in there.......closed 180+ degrees F......open 130...........holes may not be necessary.......think I was on a hole drilling spree that day.......arrow shart or tubing and longer screws.........

Last year I rode back from the mountains...100 miles.......in a heavey torrent that I thought I was going to drown in........didn't miss a lick.....and with it open there is a drain in the bottom so water doesn't collect and no condensation from temperature changes either...........

Heavy mud or dirt roads a lot might do something.......me I'm am mostly a street rider on this one..........

Pods can screw you in the rain though......wouldn't use them myself...........

xsjohn
 
Last edited:
So I am about to install the "Mikes oil cooler"...as seen in the attached photo's... it's dumb question time....! :wtf:

the large gasket seems to fit ok (photo 2) , the smaller gasket, which is supposed to repalce the gasket on the original screen filter does not match the aluminum plug (Photo 3). It fits fine against the engine (photo 4 ), not against the plug....:banghead:

Do I cut the gasket ? As it looks like there will be some oil restricted, trapped in the old bolt hole ?

SDC10296.jpg


SDC10297.jpg


SDC10300.jpg


SDC10298.jpg
 
Last edited:
- try turning the gasket over?..no that wont work either

- if you put the gasket into the sidecase so the 2 holes are exposed, the recess should allow oil to pass...i dont remember having to trim my gasket though...if no one helps before, i will be doing an oil change this weekend and will photograph mine for you

edit..ah-i see, you figured it out
 
Last edited:
I assumed once everything is seal up the oil will find it's way through the holes...there is a little pocket however I am not going to lose sleep over it......
 
He did? i don't see that he did...? To me, it looks like this will not work well... Doesn't oil come into the filter via the small hole, then pass the filter, then direct to the pump via the larger diameter hole?
 
- these filters are on the push side of the pump...oil comes from the pump through the casing wall, through the filter from outside and out through the small hole in the bottom offset to the side...the large hole is threaded to take the original filter securing bolt which also acts as the bypass should oil pressure get too high...installing one of these aftermarket conversions removes the bypass function from the system

- i havent seen how he figured it out, just read it at the bottom of his post

- id be tempted to trim the gasket so at least it doesnt rip
 
Do I cut the gasket ? As it looks like there will be some oil restricted, trapped in the old bolt hole ?
SDC10300.jpg
If you trim the gasket that is slightly over the channel and hole it should work properly. If you don't like it just buy some gasket paper and make your own, would be cheaper in the long run
 
- personally im surprised they supply this gasket, i think it better to recut it anyway, its for the original filter to fit the large oval hole in the bottom
 
When I did my install,only a smaal bit was trimed off the smaller gasket center hole. Yes, it does do away with the bypass spring, but the pressure is so low on these machine's anyway, I have had NO problem's with oil. I went with this mod for the paper filter. Figured it is better than the screen. No, the block goe's in after that small gasket, then the filter, then the cover. You don't have to tighten the center bolt too much, cause you will pull the thread's out of the aluminium case.
 
When I did my install,only a smaal bit was trimed off the smaller gasket center hole. Yes, it does do away with the bypass spring, but the pressure is so low on these machine's anyway, I have had NO problem's with oil.

- yes the pressure is low...a good reason to install an oil pressure gauge :bike:...although you will get bypass problems with revving on cold starting or blocked oil galleries :(

I went with this mod for the paper filter. Figured it is better than the screen.

- my main reason too :thumbsup:, also enables me to use generic filters, and has the finned cool factor :D

No, the block goe's in after that small gasket, then the filter, then the cover. You don't have to tighten the center bolt too much, cause you will pull the thread's out of the aluminium case.

- he sussed it :thumbsup:, you can see the green reflection in the cavity and the 2 holes in the base :D...also the photos show the gasket sitting on the bottom of the block-you can see the machining :wink2:

SDC10298.jpg


- the rest goes

filterjerry3.jpg
 
In post #55 of this thread Gordon mentioned something about tightening the center bolt. Anybody know what he means by this? I'm going to install this conversion soon and I thought there was only the two bolts that hold the finned cover on.
 
I have the XS Performance one from MikesXS. Very nice. I don't care for the look of the pick-up lines off the oil pump. Really obscures the nice view of an XS650 motor. And it gets hot in Winnepeg?
 
Back
Top