OIL FEED DELIVERY PIPE with DAMAGED NUT

[ANLAF]

Fellers

I am ready to fit the oil feed delivery pipe on engine No.2. I noticed the retaining nut is damaged - it's not split or anything like that, it still tightens perfectly well, but some of the metal that covers the top of the nut and fills in the gap between the nut and the delivery pipe has come away.

Two things - does this mean I will need a new retaining nut? and if I do then how the heck do I get the nut off and get a new nut on?

Thanks, fellers. Apologies, I can't lay my hands on my camera.

ANLAF

 

[rbjenterprises]

Funny my nut just broke. I examined it with a magnifying glass and it looks like had been cracked for a long time. Tightening it after my top end rebuild just finished it off.

I found a metric compression nut that I think will fit, amazon should have it here Monday. From images on line the domed end that captures the nut is soldered on. I have a eBay oil line coming also.

Once I get the nut I will let everyone know how it works out.

 

[XSLeo]

Generally the nut and line are considered one piece. I suppose if you found the right nut you can unsolder the line at the upper tee fitting to replace the nut. At least I think they are soldered.
The easy way is to just replace the line. Should be able to fine them on Ebay.
Leo

 

[ANLAF]

Thanks, fellers. I have been looking out for a new complete oil delivery line - no luck yet in UK so I might as well experiment. Yes, looks very much like a soldered domed end, so here goes some heat treatment. Yes, I would be able to solder a washer over a nut. It won't be pretty, but needs must when the Devil drives, as they say.

Looking at the system, mine didn't have any rubber washers, or anything to prevent leaks - it worked, but was that just luck?

ANLAF

 

[angus67]

should have had copper washers opposite sides of the banjo bolts on the head. nothing but the comp nut, and seat down below.

 

[rbjenterprises]

It works!! Compression tube but for 14mm OD tubing, M20x1.5 thread, 24mm hex size, 30 mm length.

I got it on Amazon, less than $10. It looks like a flare but with a coned top. You have to cut away the coned top and about 1mm off the thread end. Then file a bit away from the edge around the top. It will be very evident what to do. A big vice and belt sander made it easy.

The domed end of the tube comes off with some heat from a propane torch, clean up the old solder, put it all back together. The tube is chromed. I have some pictures I will post tomorrow.

 

[TwoManyXS1Bs]

Some folks have used this as an opportunity to plumb in an oil cooler...

 

[ANLAF]

Compression nut - yes, I can see plenty of those on eBay.

rbj, you say you got a nut and it works, but I am not sure what you meant by 'Compression tube but for 14mm OD tubing, M20x1.5 thread, 24mm hex size, 30 mm length.'

Have you got a pic of what you got, and did, please?

ANLAF

 

[ANLAF]

TwoMany, yes, I can see how this takes us into the realms of plumbing. I wonder if I could heat a tea urn?

ANLAF

 

[TwoManyXS1Bs]

Tea urn??? Oh, gawd, now I've got pictures in my head!!!

 

[angus67]

burrito cooker?!? On another forum Im on, the bike has a tool tube between the rear cylinder, and exhaust pipe that runs next to it. on long rides, someone put a frozen burrito in there, at the end of the ride it was hot!!

 

[weekendrider]

From rbj's description he adapted a flared nut fitting like picture #1.
You may could save the mod/fab by using a compression nut like pic #2.
Now it might not make a bit of difference to you but there is a difference.
Look at the shoulder on the inside. You will notice on the flare fitting the shoulder is beveled. Then look at the inside shoulder of the compression fitting it is square.
So you get a larger surface contact area.

 

[rbjenterprises]

Ok I finally got time to upload some pictures.

The nut did look like a SAE Flare nut not a compression nut. The picture on Amazon was a generic compression nut. As I said before you cut off the cone part flush with the flats of the nut, grind off about 1mm off the threaded end, then file away a dado around the top to allow the nut to slip under the bolts that hold the cam chain guide in. Evidently metric compression nuts look like SAE flare nuts.

Unsolder the domed end of the tube, switch out the nuts or parts, solder it back on, bolt it back.

Now for the burrito cooker or tea urn holder. That is entirely possible with enough scrap tubing and a wind deflector. I will let someone else post those pictures

 

[weekendrider]

Nice job of re-engineering for a fix rbjenterprises.

 

[angus67]

yeah man, looks pro!

 

[ANLAF]

Thanks fellers, that's a big help and rbj I'm impressed with your work. Looks like the original is a thin castle nut with the compression ridge or rim fixed into the contravellations. I'll be ordering today.

The burrito warmer has given me an idea for a pastie warm. Frozen pasty wrapped in foil, just think, thirty miles down the road and a stop for a nice cup of tea and a pasty - delicious.

ANLAF