opinion on front oil drain plug

Thanks for the help guys. Wasn't too hard with a long handle. Of course there was a tear in the sump filter: Any suggestions on fixing it? I put it back on cause I had to ride it, and now it is leaking oil from the rear side of the plate. The PO had some silicon stuff on it, is there anything you might suggest I seal it with?

edit: Ah, might as well buy a new sump filter and gasket...
 
Yup with a new gasket you shouldn't need sealer. Hint if you are willing to be careful and work slowly take a fine flat file and Carefully keeping hte file very flat on sealling surface work it back and forth you will probably see a raised area around each bolt hole. Did I mention carefully? Work those raised areas down flat with the surrounding metal. work around the whole cover do not over file any one area. The cover will be much easier to seal, do not over torque the bolts on assembly let the gasket do the work, smear a little oil or grease on the gasket faces before assembly. .
 
Yup with a new gasket you shouldn't need sealer. Hint if you are willing to be careful and work slowly take a fine flat file and Carefully keeping hte file very flat on sealling surface work it back and forth you will probably see a raised area around each bolt hole. Did I mention carefully? Work those raised areas down flat with the surrounding metal. work around the whole cover do not over file any one area. The cover will be much easier to seal, do not over torque the bolts on assembly let the gasket do the work, smear a little oil or grease on the gasket faces before assembly. .
Here is another way to correct the pulled (raised) area around bolt holes. Chuck a 3/8" counter sink in your battery powered drill motor. With the drill running, lightly touch each hole with the spinning counter sink. This will remove the raised area pulled up by too much torque on the bolts.
 
Thanks for the help guys. Wasn't too hard with a long handle. Of course there was a tear in the sump filter: Any suggestions on fixing it? I put it back on cause I had to ride it, and now it is leaking oil from the rear side of the plate. The PO had some silicon stuff on it, is there anything you might suggest I seal it with?

edit: Ah, might as well buy a new sump filter and gasket...
You can repair the torn screen on the sump filter using JB Weld. It's reasonably easy to do.
There are several threads about how to do it.
 
Thanks for the help guys. Wasn't too hard with a long handle. Of course there was a tear in the sump filter: Any suggestions on fixing it? I put it back on cause I had to ride it, and now it is leaking oil from the rear side of the plate. The PO had some silicon stuff on it, is there anything you might suggest I seal it with?

edit: Ah, might as well buy a new sump filter and gasket...
Charlie, if you look on my public page, there are photos of the sump filter repair I made using JB Weld.
 
I took a look, though I already have a new one coming from xs650direct (canadian mikes), and since they charge a flat rate for shipping i usually just throw in whatever I can.
 
Go ahead and fix the old one. That way on the oil change you can just swap the dirty filter for a clean one. Saves a few minutes and you have another 1000 miles to clean the dirty one.
Leo
 
I ended up putting a new one in, but I am already due for an oil change. I ride it a lot.

However, I don't know if this is the appropriate place to post this, but yesterday i put on about 4 hours of 50mph at about 4rpm and it ran great until about the the last 30 minutes of my loop.... first thing i noticed was when i coming to a stop (slowing/gearing down) when i'd engage the clutch at the very end, it would just stall. So, i adjust the idle screw and, bam, was fine. I thought it was weird, but gave it a benefit of a doubt and thought, "hm, maybe the screw vibrated out a bit from all the riding"

Then, i kinda smelt somthing burning, almost a sweet smell, like baking. I rode it a little bit further at the same speed, lost some power for about 5 seconds, and it then it picked back up. Heard a scraping/squealing sound, which sounded like the cam chain, so I took a look at the adjuster (which i had adjusted right before i took off, along with checking my was was for 5 miles, so i was going about 50-50mph and about 4rpm, again. same sound, same loss of power, this time more abrupt, and it just died. I coasted to the side of the road, checked my oil, it read low... and it looked and smelt burnt. also, i notivced oil coming from my engine breather tubes (not burnt)

So, what am i looking at
- burnt oil
- coming out of breather tubes
- sqealing sound
- loss of power
- (need to adjust idle)

I could only think i was burning oil, and it lost it's lubricating power, so the engine couldn't handle it...

I was going to do an oil change today, check the filters for metal and plastic. Make sure there is enough oil in there. poor and bit of oil into the spark plug holes, kick it over. then start it up?

any other suggestions?
 
You get what you pay for. I would not buy a used torque wrench unless you have it recently calibrated. With a used tool..............has it been dropped?..............has it been over stressed? To many unknowns.

I have a beam type torque wrench, but I much prefer to use my "click" type. The "click" type are accurate and easy to use in any position.

Its a personal choice, you could make do with just a beam type. It might depend on what you think your time is worth, when you break off a bolt in the engine sump or an exhaust stud for example.

With a beam type you always know where you are by looking at the gauge.With a click type you dont know until it goes click.If you set a click type to high and dont have a good feel it may be too late when it goes click.To set proper preload on crown and pinion setups i find you need a good beam style.Most torque wrenches are not real accurate in the first bit of movement so for small bolts like the sump plate you should use a quarter drive unit that reads in inch pounds
 
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