Options for aftermarket gauges

Looks great, what's it made for, car or bike? does it have a switch to set it for 2-4-6-8 cylinders or pulses per revolution maybe?
The acewell has a soft switch that selects the number of pulses per revolution, below is from their handbook
http://www.acewell-meter.com/download.php
the default value is 1.0; there are 4 options: 1.0, 2.0, 3.0 and 0.5. It means the numbers of engine rotation per signal. For example the value 2.0 means the engine rotate 2 turns to output a signal.
 
They don't give you any info do they, can't even find a hint at who the maker is to go to for technical descriptions, although it is made for a 4 stroke twin so that's a good thing. See how you go coiling the sig wire around the plug lead, that is how these electronic tacho's work picking up the high currnet pulses that fire the spark plug (like a timing light)if that doesn't work methinks the unit is crook (hopefully you didn't break it).
disclaimer: the above is my best guess only based on knowledge gained through beer and bullshit.
cheers
 
You know I haven't gotten a chance to test the tach in the last couple weeks, because the speedo stopped working. I think it's because the angle that I had the drive cable going in, I had it coming up through a hole in the headlight and was kind of putting downward pressure on the connection to speedo. Anyway, it doesn't work anymore, like doesn't do anything if I hook up a cable. So I guess I'll take it back to the speedo shop and see what happens.

This doesn't really help anybody trying to decide to buy it, since I'm not sure if I ruined it or if it's just a shitty gauge.

More to come...
 
To conclude this long and slightly depressing story....

I tried hooking up the electric tach like "rude" suggested, by twisting the wire around the spark plug. It didn't work, at all. Also, like I was saying, the speedo stopped working at some point, so I took it to a shop, they directed me on how to open it up and what to look at....long story short, it still don't work.

I would not suggest anyone else buy this gauge, the shop said it was pretty poor quality, I broke it with a grand total of 64 miles on it. And as far as I can tell, there's no way to get the tach working.

So, a waist of $80 for me, and off to the junkyard for a real gauge.
 
sorry to hear that poorman, have a look at ACEWELL and VAPOUR gauges, I've got one of each (on different bikes) and they both work well
 
Poorman9, coiling the pickup wire around a spark plug lead is emphatically not a good method for connecting a tach. Hook the tach wire up to the same coil terminal as the signal wire from your Boyer box. If the tach spikes erratically, stick a 1 megohm resistor in the tach wire, in front of the coil connector. If the tach still spikes, add a second resistor to the line, in series with the first (splice unlike resistor ends together, referring to the stripes on the resistors).
 
Yep I did took me a while to get over the cost also but a must for what I want, even fell for the custom graphics. Not done with the little stainless dash I need to make underneath it for my volt meter and I am adding a micro barrel key switch, then trim the lower mounts up as small as possible.

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Yeah I'll give it a try tonight after work and report back.

I love the way to gauge looks, I think it complements the big ol stock headlight. It's definitely not the mini style that a lot of people like, but I was going for more of a vintage look.

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what bars are those i like them
 
Yeah I'll give it a try tonight after work and report back.

I love the way to gauge looks, I think it complements the big ol stock headlight. It's definitely not the mini style that a lot of people like, but I was going for more of a vintage look.

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what gauge is that i need different gauges and how was the instal thanks
 
My build has an iPhone holder from raving-psycho and a USB connector and we downloaded a gps speedo. No need for tach or other lights. Here is a pic installed on my cbr1krr
 
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