Other ignition options

[sleddog83]

Didn’t seem to be much point in removing them and checking them on my cap meter without knowing what value they should be. The meter could tell me anything but how would I know if it is correct. Besides, odds are that after 36 years they have gone resistive anyway. Even if they are shorted or open, what value of cap should I install? I suspect the value is significant, given that the resistors attached to the IC seemed to have been selected for a specific value. This might imply that some tuned RC values were selected for op-amp circuits in the IC.
I have been looking over the TID12-01 igniter I bought off eBay(supposedly from a 1980). For the IC it uses a quad Op amp IC.(ha17902). The board is filled with components that are connected to at least three of the op amps. I suspect the busted TID12-03 igniter I have is essentially the same quad op amp IC with all the extra caps and resistors built into it. Hitachi basically custom built that IC and reduced the component count on the board. The older board also has two tantalums on it. I will check those first. I will also trace out the older board to see if can figure out what the op amps are configured to do.

 

[TwoManyXS1Bs]

Well, I'm racking my brain here, over those old tantalums. A Google search on "tantalum capacitor color code" brings up old memories. Are there any other markings, even for polarity?

 

[Paul Sutton]

Interesting video I saw:

Includes a simple MOSFET tester which way be relevant to ignition testing at some point. But to be off topic the 1st project is a cute little induction heater.

 

[sleddog83]

Well if there is any similarity between a tid12-01(1980) igniter and a tid12-03(1983) igniter, they look to be 0.1 tantalum caps. On a side note, the drop-down resistor R49(82 ohm 1W) on the 12-01 board seems a bit stressed. It is part of the voltage regulation circuit on the board and a common point of failure on all igniters. On the later boards, they use two 150 ohm 1/2 watt resistors in parallel to do the same thing.
I think I will just replace all of the electrolytics on both boards.

 

[chugg]

Hey Scott; I am planning on purchasing the Hondaman transistor setup. I like to support small motorcycle entrepreneurs whenever I can. I don't mind the points setup anyway, and I like the idea of being able to switch back to the points on the road if I need to appealing. I would have purchased the Pamco setup, but that ship has sailed and I'm not buying the knockoff, or supporting the ripoff. I would like to have electronic advance, but the stock advance I have is working well, so I'm good for now.

 

[scott s]

Be sure to report back on how it works on the XS650. Install, performance, etc.

 

[chugg]

Be sure to report back on how it works on the XS650. Install, performance, etc.

Yes, I will. I'm replacing coils, plug wires, and plugs as well. I will install those first, and get a feel for how much better that is, and then install the transistor box and see how that goes.

 

[Beags64]

For grins (and a good winter project) gonna see if I can "engineer" workable mag ignition for my ongoing, slow moving, bobber project.

Worst case I'm out $40 for a pile of swap meet parts.

 

[Jim]

Ooooh.... I loves me a magneto.

 

[Team Junk]

I'm using a TCI box from a Maxum 700 0n my 82 motor using the stock TCI coil. It seems that the pickup coil is reversed from thc later maxum . The box works fine but no advance. I have several other later boxes that I've not had time to play with. Personally I thinks Hugh's PMA with CDI is the best setup. Pricey but fool proof especially for the guys running capacitors.

 

[Beags64]

Just gotta watch them digits if you spin it over with the cover off! The one is complete, throws a nice big spark and has a 2 lobe point cam. Little bit of trimming and an adaptor should take care of mounting. Need to figure out what's going to be the best way to spin 'er up, may even try to keep the impulse coupling in play.

 

[Jim]

may even try to keep the impulse coupling in play.

Yeah... definitely keep the impulse coupling. Makes for nice fatter spark for starting. I may even have a spare Slick coupling around here somewhere in my airplane stuff. Holler if you want me to look.

 

[Beags64]

Thanks for the offer, both these got the coupling with them. One was just missing the coil and the points, both easily pick up at the tractor parts store down the road. Already found a new 2 cylinder cover on Fleabay.