Painting Tins. No really...

What color should these tins be?

  • Candy green and white a la XS1

    Votes: 15 28.8%

  • Candy gold and white a la XS1

    Votes: 20 38.5%

  • Candy red and white a la XS2

    Votes: 17 32.7%
  • Total voters
    52
Jim said:
Showed up a bit ago...


View attachment 323315


Cups are 6oz. The aluminum cup I have on the DeVillebliss is 8oz... so roughly the same, and more than enough for the tanks and stuff I do. Might take two cups for a frame, other than that, should be plenty.


View attachment 323316


You fill the throwaway liner... thinner for test purposes.


View attachment 323317

View attachment 323318


Put the cap and plastic ring on it...


View attachment 323319


Invert the gun and push the adaptor into the cup... a slight twist to lock it.


View attachment 323320


...and Bob's your uncle.


View attachment 323321


Unscrew the ring, turn it upside down and the cap and liner fall into the trash.


View attachment 323322


I think I'll keep one cup with a little thinner in it (they come with plugs) to run through the gun to clean the nozzle.... but I like it.... huge time and thinner savings. Winner winner, chicken dinner. :cheers:
Click to expand...
The plugged cup with thinner is certainly one way to do it. I just have a Devilbiss squeeze bottle with L.T. in it. The spout is small enough to squirt directly in the port plus I can squirt the outside of the gun and squirt it in the air cap too. Hope you like it, can't really see a downside to the system.
 
46th Georgia said:
The plugged cup with thinner is certainly one way to do it. I just have a Devilbiss squeeze bottle with L.T. in it. The spout is small enough to squirt directly in the port plus I can squirt the outside of the gun and squirt it in the air cap too. Hope you like it, can't really see a downside to the system.
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I like that idea. I'd have to buy another "hard" cup and ring for my suggestion. On the other hand, squirt bottles I have. šŸ‘
 
Vincenthdfan said:
He'd be even more booked if shipping prices werent so damned criminally high these days. šŸ˜”
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I shipped tank, fenders and side covers to @Jim last winter using a commercial UPS/FEDEX/whatever for ~$95IIRC. When @Jim shipped the completed tins I believe he used pirateship and the shipping bill was ~$45. KC to Sheboygan WI. I feel that last number is reasonable and not really criminally high.
 
Kevin Werner said:
I shipped tank, fenders and side covers to @Jim last winter using a commercial UPS/FEDEX/whatever for ~$95IIRC. When @Jim shipped the completed tins I believe he used pirateship and the shipping bill was ~$45. KC to Sheboygan WI. I feel that last number is reasonable and not really criminally high.
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You're a lot closer than I am though. :unsure:
 
Filler... round three.

I ever mention I suck at bondo? I mean... the finished product is as good as anyone's... but it seems I pick a hard row to hoe gettin' there.


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Jim said:
Filler... round three.

I ever mention I suck at bondo? I mean... the finished product is as good as anyone's... but it seems I pick a hard row to hoe gettin' there.


View attachment 323408
Click to expand...
I suspect you're a lot like my Wife in regards to her cooking...she's her own worst critic, she cooks great.

Im pretty certain your mud work is great too. :laugh:
 
Last edited:
Jim said:
Filler... round three.

I ever mention I suck at bondo? I mean... the finished product is as good as anyone's... but it seems I pick a hard row to hoe gettin' there.


View attachment 323408
Click to expand...

If youā€™re using actual bondo, I find evercoat to be a much better product.

It costs more, buts it much better to play with.

I use it everyday.
 
Jim said:
My go to store switched to Evercoat last year. To be honest, they both spread and sand about the same to me.
Click to expand...
Which Evercoat? I find that Rage Ultra, although it's ridiculously expensive, sands easier than anything I've ever used. Also, I use a half round cheese grater to knock off any real bad high spots, followed by 80 grit then 150. Then I like to put on a coat or two of Feather-Fil poly primer, let sit over night, 150, 2k urethane primer then prep for paint. I find that the poly primer levels out the bondo and makes the blocking more consistant as you're not sanding epoxy and bondo in the same sweep as they cut much differently. Also, instead of buying Icing for pinholes, I just use Evercoat Honey to thin down the bondo. Waaaaay cheaper. Just my 2 cents worth.
 
WideAWAKE said:
If youā€™re using actual bondo, I find evercoat to be a much better product.

It costs more, buts it much better to play with.

I use it everyday.
Click to expand...
46th Georgia said:
Which Evercoat? I find that Rage Ultra, although it's ridiculously expensive, sands easier than anything I've ever used. Also, I use a half round cheese grater to knock off any real bad high spots, followed by 80 grit then 150. Then I like to put on a coat or two of Feather-Fil poly primer, let sit over night, 150, 2k urethane primer then prep for paint. I find that the poly primer levels out the bondo and makes the blocking more consistant as you're not sanding epoxy and bondo in the same sweep as they cut much differently. Also, instead of buying Icing for pinholes, I just use Evercoat Honey to thin down the bondo. Waaaaay cheaper. Just my 2 cents worth.
Click to expand...
Sorry guys, shoulda answered last night....
I do appreciate the suggestions, seriously. I've adopted many of @46th Georgia 's suggestions, so don't think I don't want to hear 'em... I do.

Having said that :wink2: , it's me, not the materials. You can't fix stupid. I'll give ya an example; On both tanks, there's a half dozen or so minor dings. Hoping for the quick fix, I filled 'em in and sanded. Felt a little waviness, so added a bit and sanded a bit.... more waves... finally after too damn many tries, I put a skim coat over the whole area and sanded it out to shape. The stupid? I knew damn good and well after the first try I needed to skim the whole area and be done with it. Did I? Nooooo! I kept going for the easy fix.... which in the end is the much larger row.

Want an even better laugh? I did the same damn thing on the other tank. I know better, yet....
I'm 69 and set in my ways I guess.... Ya can't fix stupid.

Anyway, 'nother prime tomorrow and see where we're at. Color this weekend?...


1713488077187.png


1713488097693.png
 
Jim said:
Sorry guys, shoulda answered last night....
I do appreciate the suggestions, seriously. I've adopted many of @46th Georgia 's suggestions, so don't think I don't want to hear 'em... I do.

Having said that :wink2: , it's me, not the materials. You can't fix stupid. I'll give ya an example; On both tanks, there's a half dozen or so minor dings. Hoping for the quick fix, I filled 'em in and sanded. Felt a little waviness, so added a bit and sanded a bit.... more waves... finally after too damn many tries, I put a skim coat over the whole area and sanded it out to shape. The stupid? I knew damn good and well after the first try I needed to skim the whole area and be done with it. Did I? Nooooo! I kept going for the easy fix.... which in the end is the much larger row.

Want an even better laugh? I did the same damn thing on the other tank. I know better, yet....
I'm 69 and set in my ways I guess.... Ya can't fix stupid.

Anyway, 'nother prime tomorrow and see where we're at. Color this weekend?...


View attachment 323545

View attachment 323546
Click to expand...
Don't feel too bad. I catch myself doing it too as I hate using more filler than I (think) I need.
 

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