or blue.Let's see some red in one of those cups...
or blue.Let's see some red in one of those cups...
The plugged cup with thinner is certainly one way to do it. I just have a Devilbiss squeeze bottle with L.T. in it. The spout is small enough to squirt directly in the port plus I can squirt the outside of the gun and squirt it in the air cap too. Hope you like it, can't really see a downside to the system.Showed up a bit ago...
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Cups are 6oz. The aluminum cup I have on the DeVillebliss is 8oz... so roughly the same, and more than enough for the tanks and stuff I do. Might take two cups for a frame, other than that, should be plenty.
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You fill the throwaway liner... thinner for test purposes.
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Put the cap and plastic ring on it...
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Invert the gun and push the adaptor into the cup... a slight twist to lock it.
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...and Bob's your uncle.
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Unscrew the ring, turn it upside down and the cap and liner fall into the trash.
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I think I'll keep one cup with a little thinner in it (they come with plugs) to run through the gun to clean the nozzle.... but I like it.... huge time and thinner savings. Winner winner, chicken dinner.
We all have our strengths and weaknesses.Shows how much I know....
I like that idea. I'd have to buy another "hard" cup and ring for my suggestion. On the other hand, squirt bottles I have.The plugged cup with thinner is certainly one way to do it. I just have a Devilbiss squeeze bottle with L.T. in it. The spout is small enough to squirt directly in the port plus I can squirt the outside of the gun and squirt it in the air cap too. Hope you like it, can't really see a downside to the system.
Or Star Black.or blue.
Maybe when TurboTax asks if I have any out of state purchases...Sounds like @Jim is booked solid...
the gloves are coming off!Maybe when TurboTax asks if I have any out of state purchases...
I shipped tank, fenders and side covers to @Jim last winter using a commercial UPS/FEDEX/whatever for ~$95IIRC. When @Jim shipped the completed tins I believe he used pirateship and the shipping bill was ~$45. KC to Sheboygan WI. I feel that last number is reasonable and not really criminally high.He'd be even more booked if shipping prices werent so damned criminally high these days.
You're a lot closer than I am though.
A hoe? Thereās my problem! I always spread it with a plastic spreader!but it seems I pick a hard row to hoe gettin there.
I suspect you're a lot like my Wife in regards to her cooking...she's her own worst critic, she cooks great.Filler... round three.
I ever mention I suck at bondo? I mean... the finished product is as good as anyone's... but it seems I pick a hard row to hoe gettin' there.
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Filler... round three.
I ever mention I suck at bondo? I mean... the finished product is as good as anyone's... but it seems I pick a hard row to hoe gettin' there.
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Which Evercoat? I find that Rage Ultra, although it's ridiculously expensive, sands easier than anything I've ever used. Also, I use a half round cheese grater to knock off any real bad high spots, followed by 80 grit then 150. Then I like to put on a coat or two of Feather-Fil poly primer, let sit over night, 150, 2k urethane primer then prep for paint. I find that the poly primer levels out the bondo and makes the blocking more consistant as you're not sanding epoxy and bondo in the same sweep as they cut much differently. Also, instead of buying Icing for pinholes, I just use Evercoat Honey to thin down the bondo. Waaaaay cheaper. Just my 2 cents worth.My go to store switched to Evercoat last year. To be honest, they both spread and sand about the same to me.
If youāre using actual bondo, I find evercoat to be a much better product.
It costs more, buts it much better to play with.
I use it everyday.
Sorry guys, shoulda answered last night....Which Evercoat? I find that Rage Ultra, although it's ridiculously expensive, sands easier than anything I've ever used. Also, I use a half round cheese grater to knock off any real bad high spots, followed by 80 grit then 150. Then I like to put on a coat or two of Feather-Fil poly primer, let sit over night, 150, 2k urethane primer then prep for paint. I find that the poly primer levels out the bondo and makes the blocking more consistant as you're not sanding epoxy and bondo in the same sweep as they cut much differently. Also, instead of buying Icing for pinholes, I just use Evercoat Honey to thin down the bondo. Waaaaay cheaper. Just my 2 cents worth.
Don't feel too bad. I catch myself doing it too as I hate using more filler than I (think) I need.Sorry guys, shoulda answered last night....
I do appreciate the suggestions, seriously. I've adopted many of @46th Georgia 's suggestions, so don't think I don't want to hear 'em... I do.
Having said that , it's me, not the materials. You can't fix stupid. I'll give ya an example; On both tanks, there's a half dozen or so minor dings. Hoping for the quick fix, I filled 'em in and sanded. Felt a little waviness, so added a bit and sanded a bit.... more waves... finally after too damn many tries, I put a skim coat over the whole area and sanded it out to shape. The stupid? I knew damn good and well after the first try I needed to skim the whole area and be done with it. Did I? Nooooo! I kept going for the easy fix.... which in the end is the much larger row.
Want an even better laugh? I did the same damn thing on the other tank. I know better, yet....
I'm 69 and set in my ways I guess.... Ya can't fix stupid.
Anyway, 'nother prime tomorrow and see where we're at. Color this weekend?...
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