Pamco + Banshee PMA: Install which first?

[AirsoftNY]

Hi all,

Purchased a Pamco kit a while back, and also recently finished getting my parts together for a "banshee swap", using Hugh's kit.

My question: Which is recommended I install first, the Pamco or the banshee? I'm thinking ahead toward timing and troubleshooting.

thanks!

Aaron

 

[azman857]

Pamco, because its a qwick and easy installation. or should be. Mine was. PMA will take a bit. Needs special tools if the old rotor is still installed. Again, not hard to do but way more involved. One more thing. If you do the Pamco first and all timed up, when you replace the rotor you can make the timing mark accurately on the new rotor.

 

[blackbetty]

I just did a boyer w Hugh's PMA yesterday.

I did the ignition first so I could keep the timing marks during set up, but it may be different with the Pamco.

I also had to do a little notching of the aluminum ring in Hugh's kit to get it to sit flat on the case. The most time consuming part of the PMA install is filing down the woodruff key.

 

[AirsoftNY]

Sounds good, Pamco first.

thanks!

 

[MiniDanzig]

i'm actually in a similar situation. My 81 special is disassembled with the original harness kind of butchered. My intent was to do the pamco install and banshee swap at the same time. Aside from doubling the amount of trouble shooting i'm going to have to do is there any reason it cannot be done?

 

[XSLeo]

Any way you do it you might want to run the ignition on it's own battery until you get the PMA working right. If the regulator is acting up it can charge to a very high voltage and damage the ignition. Once you check that the voltage doesn't exceed 14.5 volts then unhook the ignition from the battery and to the bike.
Leo

 

[MiniDanzig]

thanks for the advice Leo, i'm not really sure how to go about doing that. I've been reading all i can on the numerous pma and pamco install threads but haven't found any info on running the ignition and charging system separately. if anyone could point me in the right direction that would be awesome.

i still have all of the stock ignition parts and a tci that is still good so maybe i can hook back up the necessary stuff just to get the bike started so i can get the pma dialed in first. i picked up a new regulator from Hugh so hopefully that wont be the issue.

 

[XSLeo]

Hooking in a battery to run the Ignition isn't hard. Get the ignition on the bike. The TCI where the red/white to the coil and to the TCI box, instead of hooking them to the bike wiring hook the through a switch and fuse and hook them to the positive if a battery. Hook the negitive to any point on the frame. This will power the ignition.
Hook up all the parts to your PMA. Wires from the stator to the reg/rec. The red to the cap or battery on the bike, black to ground.
As long as the ignition is powered by one battery and the bike has a seperate one. Don't hook the red from the PMA system to the battery you are powering the ignition with.
Start the bike, check the PMA. If it works right, no overcharging, then you can unhook the extra battery and hook the ignition wires to the bikes system. Through an engine stop switch and a fuse of course.
I have done about the same to test a bike to see if it runs. Hooking it that way bypasses all the bikes electrics so just the engine runs.
Leo

 

[AirsoftNY]

XSLeo,

Just to confirm, the procedure you describe above is done BEFORE you install the Pamco, correct?

tx!

 

[MiniDanzig]

Hooking in a battery to run the Ignition isn't hard. Get the ignition on the bike. The TCI where the red/white to the coil and to the TCI box, instead of hooking them to the bike wiring hook the through a switch and fuse and hook them to the positive if a battery. Hook the negitive to any point on the frame. This will power the ignition.
Hook up all the parts to your PMA. Wires from the stator to the reg/rec. The red to the cap or battery on the bike, black to ground.
As long as the ignition is powered by one battery and the bike has a seperate one. Don't hook the red from the PMA system to the battery you are powering the ignition with.
Start the bike, check the PMA. If it works right, no overcharging, then you can unhook the extra battery and hook the ignition wires to the bikes system. Through an engine stop switch and a fuse of course.
I have done about the same to test a bike to see if it runs. Hooking it that way bypasses all the bikes electrics so just the engine runs.
Leo

Fuck yeah Leo, thanks! It may seem simple, but for someone like me who is new and kind of intimidated by the electrical side of things this is a massive help. I'm sure i'll have some questions as i go but this will get me going in the right direction. thanks again.

 

[XSLeo]

Airsoft, This will work with any ignition. I have used this to test run bikes many times.
MiniDanzig, The electrics on any thing can be intimidating. These bikes aren't very complicated, you just have to study it and you will figure it out.
No matter what ignition you use, having a functional charging system is one thing you can't do without.
A battery will only go so far, then it's dead. If the charging system works you keep going.
Leo

 

[The Dependable]

Ok, dumb move but I forgot to mark the Banshee flywheel with the timing marks from the rotor. I also installed a Pamco. I have her running ok but how do I now figure where the timing marks should go on the Banshee flywheel? I'm guessing I bring a piston to TDC by visually inspecting through spark plug hole first...then I downloaded a timing wheel off the internet (Tavia one- don't know if there are better ones...) What is the advance on these babies? Thanks to you gurus, so glad I'm anonymous!

 

[thrashin]

where is that down load? I could use one. PM me if you can. I did the same thing on my bike. Changed the flywheel and didn't mark it. haha

I made a mark where the bolt goes into the banshee bracket up top left. Then found tdc and marked the flywheel. I was told the fire range should be aprx 1" left of tdc.

I found full advance on the Pamco by turning it clockwise all the way.

 

[losi9]

I just did a boyer w Hugh's PMA yesterday.

I did the ignition first so I could keep the timing marks during set up, but it may be different with the Pamco.

I also had to do a little notching of the aluminum ring in Hugh's kit to get it to sit flat on the case. The most time consuming part of the PMA install is filing down the woodruff key.

It tells you to remove the woodruff key???

 

[CaptDan]

I believe what blackbetty was referring too was changing the width on the woodruff key, not filling it down to nothing.

Some of the old piece-it-together PMA installations used the XS woodruff key to index a Banshee rotor/flywheel, but the slot in the Banshee rotor is narrower than the XS key, so the key had to be shaved down to fit.

http://www.xs650.com/threads/pma-swap-woodruff-key.31995/

But yes, the key can be removed completely when doing a PMA conversion, it just means you will need to make you own timing marks on the rotor.