PAMCO is in.

Downeaster

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Whadda breeze. Installation was very straightforward, everything fit like it should.

I went a slightly different route with the mount for the new coil, but other than that it was just like the pictures in the instructions.

I will need to neaten up the wiring once I get a handful of good male and female bullet connectors (didn't realize I was out of 'em...:(, ). I was in and out in about an hour, including a few minutes of head-scratching while deciding how to mount the coil.

Timing was dead on when I eyeballed it into the center of the adjustment slots, didn't need to tweak it at all.

Bike starts better, idles cleaner, pulls harder and runs a LOT smoother at 55-60 MPH.

An outstanding kit, two thumbs up!! :thumbsup::thumbsup:
 
Make sure you check the timing at full advance as well. You don't want it going past that full advance slash mark at all. After running my Pamco a month or so, I re-checked and retarded the timing just a hair to get that full advance mark lining up better. Now, several years later, I retarded it yet again a little bit more. Keep in mind that these motors originally were timed to 38° BTDC for full advance. After the first couple years, this was changed to 40° BTDC. I actually think they run better and stronger on the old mark. The idle isn't as smooth but higher RPM and high speed performance is better.
 
I mounted mine in the stock location (ultimate high output coil)

File4293.jpg


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I'll try to remember to take a pic when I clean up the wiring.

Essentially, I made a flat plate out of aluminum:

coilmount.jpg


Holes on 2" centers mount to old coil bracket (on points side worked best for me) and new coil mounts to holes on 4" centers. This gives clearance for original flasher unit on the frame side, and just clears the tank on the outboard side.

NOTE: Hole centers are actually a tad wider than shown, you'll need to check your coil and the old mount for exact measurements.
 
I made mine similar to Downeaster's, but out of 1/2 inch steel stock and all 4 holes in line with each other.
 
I've installed the Pamco on my 73 and it starts great but I'm wondering about the full advance setting? Is there a static mark from the factory down on the flywheel. I know there is the "T" and "F". What should I be looking for? Thx
 
What's the deal w/ that Ultimate Coil? I am reading that has a possible 82Kv but what exactly does that mean--possible? I'm thinkin' to get one, I usually go w/ Accel but I might try something different this time. To get the 82Kv do I need to rig it up any special way?

See the Accel is a 45Kv or something like that & doesn't use paper, nice coil & I've always been satisfied, & that Ultimate doesn't use paper either right. Price is about the same too, maybe $10 bucks or something--no big.
 
I've installed the Pamco on my 73 and it starts great but I'm wondering about the full advance setting? Is there a static mark from the factory down on the flywheel. I know there is the "T" and "F". What should I be looking for? Thx

Here is the full advance timing mark on a '78. Probably the same for the '73:

advance2.jpg
 
What's the deal w/ that Ultimate Coil? I am reading that has a possible 82Kv but what exactly does that mean--possible? I'm thinkin' to get one, I usually go w/ Accel but I might try something different this time. To get the 82Kv do I need to rig it up any special way?

See the Accel is a 45Kv or something like that & doesn't use paper, nice coil & I've always been satisfied, & that Ultimate doesn't use paper either right. Price is about the same too, maybe $10 bucks or something--no big.

Paper?.....................
 
Yeah, Pregrid--
Now, obviously I'm not the ripest apple in the bunch but I understand that the coil has separate pieces & between those pieces is either paper (lower quality) or plastic (higher quality)--If I'm understanding that wrong I'm kool bein' learned.

I'd heard of it awhile ago & learned Accel used a plastic divider so, I've stuck w/ 'em but these days some of the producers are using the plastic which, to my understanding, helps keep the mechanism kooler by shielding its parts from each other &, therefore, not letting one hot end overflow negatively affecting the others in a dominant fashion.
 
What......


All in ignition coil is, is a step up transformer essentially....The primary (12v) side has a bunch of windings around what is probably an iron core....and the secondary has about eleventy billion more around an iron core....then they are dunked it a hot varnish more than likely. The two cores make no physical contact as they work off of mutual induction....All transformers work off of this basic theory...some are probably constructed better than others... The can short across windings internally and not work.

i am running a like new Yamaha seca 900 coil that i got for 30 bones from the wrecker..All these people running super high volatage coils on a street motor are throwing money away. 30KV is plenty. I ran a green monster for a while...what a piece of shit. The minute it got a hint of moisture it was arcing to everything close by.
 
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