A couple updates:
1.) I wired up the new harness so all connections are good and the connectors are half broke anymore.
2.) I ran the test wire from the neg. battery terminal to the bottom nut of the handle bar mount (on the underside of tripe t, effectively grounding the bars) that cleared up the electric start issue, so I needed to ground the bars. One problem down!
That shouldn't work there is still something wrong there . referring to my schematic you should have a R/W red /white live feed from the safety relay to the kill switch which then feeds the starter switch . From the starter switch the switch live feed goes to the starter solenoid to activate the starter. There should be no ground wire anywhere connected to the kill switch or the start switch unless you are using a non-standard switch ?
3.) Double checked the Boyer is wired up right, everything is good there and it is getting voltage too!!
4.) Talked to my buddy at work who has done a few Harleys in his time, he said he knows a good machine shop right down the road that did his harley heads for 40 bucks, I forget what all was included but I'm thinking thats where my head's heading once i tear it down. Maybe see if he can port them too to squeeze some extra juice out of it.
5.) I figured while I'm in the motor I mine as well do rings too, and have the cylinders checked out and make sure I don't have to have it honed. But I was reading the write up on mikesxs on his motor teardown and rebuild and when he installed his rings he said he used his hand and a screwdriver?!? Can anyone shed light on that? I've always used a ring compressor but those were all 8 cylinder engines
if you renew the rings, even with the same size rings, you'll need to hone the bores , if only to remove the glaze.
6.) Also I have read while I'm in the engine its a good idea to do cam chain and the front guide too? Would that be necessary with only 10,200 on the motor?
depends on when they were last replaced. The wearing surface is made of rubber which deteriorates over time so if the bike has stood for many years then yes its best to replace but judge that when you tear down
7.) Got the rear brake hooked up and functioning but when I went to install the front caliper the top bolt hole is off by about a half inch and wont line up. Tried some gentle pressure but figured I'd ask before I break something.
that doesn't make sense if the caliper came off of the same forks ? you sure its a front caliper ?
I think thats about all I have to say for now, If I missed something let me know. I was hoping I could take care of that top end rebuild quickly at the end of this month
but I got set back $150 bucks for a speeding ticket yesterday so that pushed everything back a couple weeks