Questions on Rectifier/Regulator Installation

[TeeCat]

Guys -

As some of you know, I will be installing a Mike's rec/reg in my '73. It comes with instructions, which address the basics, but I have a couple more questions at the moment. I'll likely do this work this coming weekend.

Supplied are plastic terminal connector blocks for both the reg and rec side, since the new solid state unit will plug into the stock harness. Both male and female plugs are supplied, but do I HAVE to use the new ones on the harness side if the new ones mate up to the old ones, or is it just advisable? I'd like to do as little soldering as possible, though my temptation is to do everything all new.

Also, when assembling the blocks to the wires, I:

- crimp the four little tabs on the metal male/female connector to each wire;

- solder over the crimped connections; and

- insert the completed wire/metal connector into its hole in the plastic terminal plug.

Is that right? I just want to make sure I have secure connections in the right places - I'll have to pay attention to that - and I'm a bit concerned about not being able to get them out if I screw up.

Also, the instructions say (on the regulator side):

For an improved secondary ground, run a black wire from the base of the new unit and splice it into the battery negative lead, or run the wire to the black wire in the connector block.

The latter is my preference.

Now, the instructions also recommend mounting the new unit into the old mechanical reg location. But does it have to be installed right on metal, or rubber... not sure if that matters at all, both in terms of vibration isolation and proper grounding... though it will already be grounded with the black wire.

Thank you.

TC

 

[pyrocentric]

I'm still using the original plugs, but I spent hours with a nail file polishing the corrosion off of those little plugs. A dremel with a small bit will clean them off too. Those rusty connections were source of lots of my troubles.

 

[XSLeo]

You can use the new or the old.
The connectors have a release tab that lets you remove the connectors from the plugs.
If you look at the new ones you will see a tab that sticks out of the side of the connector. This tab can be pressed in with a paper clip slid down in by the connector. A flat jewelers screwdriver can work also.
If you remove one wire at a time, clean it or replace it, snap it into the same slot in the new plug.
After you do all the wires in each plug you will have all new connectors.
To mount the new part, If the mount holes line up with the old regulators mounts and doesn't get in the way of the side cover, mount it right on. No need for rubber, right to the battery box is fine.
If it won't, then a strap of steel with holes drilled to match both sides will need to be made. On my Chrysler regulator I used one stock mount hole and drilled a second in the battery box. A short bolt and it was mounted.
As far as grounding Mike's directions sound good. The battery box is not grounded, rubber mounts. Adding the extra wire from under one of the mount bolts to the harness or to the bolt where the battery ground strap bolts to the frame will insure a good ground. I ran my regulator ground to the battery ground bolt.

 

[TeeCat]

Hello, guys...

Hey, thanks for the tips!

Leo, I wanted to thank you in particular for the detailed guidance. I saw a little "retaining tang" on the new metal connectors, and thought that once they were in the plastic... that was it. So, thank you... I'll have a look. I hope to do this this weekend. And if the existing connectors on the harness side can be cleaned, I'll just use those as long as the new plastic parts mate up with the existing ones.

As to the ground, I think I'll follow your suggestion and run a black wire (with a loop connector on it) to the bold that holds the battery ground strap to the frame. That's a great idea, and seems easiest.

After all this, I sure hope the reg/rec replacement solves my problem!

I'll keep you posted!

TC

 

[TeeCat]

Leo...

Working on this.

One more question: Is it okay to fix one end of the ground wire right to the body of the new reg/rec (and the other end to where the battery ground strap bolts to the frame) as long as I scrape a little paint off the reg/rec? I was thinking of using one of the bolt holes with soldered loops on the ground I'll make up.

Thanks.

 

[XSLeo]

Thats how I did mine. A wire with a loop soldered on each end. One end under a reg mount bolt the other under the same bolt the battery ground strap hooks at the frame.
Making sure a clean connection is always a plus. A dab of dialectric grease helps stop corrosion.

 

[TeeCat]

I'll do it that way, Leo, thanks. I have the unit temporarily mounted in the original holes. It needed longer bolts, and mounts on an angle. It does touch the top edge of the sit cover, but not so much as to displace it or make me want to relocate it.

I soldered male connectors onto the fuse block wires and shrinkwrapped over them, except for the bullets, and they plug right into the existing female ones from the battery/harness side nicely. So I think that part of it is fixed.

I soldered the male connectors on the regulator/rectifier side, but still have to insert them in the terminals and hook it all up.

Also, I can't seem to get my old rectifier off. There's a single bolt that holds it on. It moves, but won't seem to back out all the way; the unit wants to turn with it. Any idea what's going on with that? I don't want to muscle it and break anything.

TC

 

[XSLeo]

Just hold the unit and turn the bolt. It should come right off. It may take a bit. It has been on there 37 years.

 

[TeeCat]

Guys, just to update you, I buttoned it all up today - still not entirely thrilled about the way I loomed and routed the wires, but my options are limited - and the bike fired right up on the first hot kick. I have not taken her out yet - might oughta have someone follow me - but my voltmeter says I'm getting 13 - 13.5 at idle, and 14.5 at 3 grand, though I'll have to see at speed, because my Sun volt gauge needle was characteristically "busy" at speed. Not sure if it was vibration or an indication of a failing reg or rec.

So, we'll see. I hope this was my problem. Seems too specific a problem to be coincidental. I'd still love to know why the main fuse blew that day.

Maybe some pics later if I get a chance.

 

[XSLeo]

Glad you have it back together.
My volt gauge on my handle bars bounces around a lot. Engine and road vibrations.
It bounces as much below as over. Watching it and eyeballing half way between is close enough for me. It still tells if the voltage gets to low or to high.

 

[pamcopete]

XSLeo,

You need one of these:

On the bike:

Available from:

http://www.martelmeters.com/products.php?cat=1

This meter draws so little current that I wired it up permanently to the battery which allows me to see the battery voltage even when I have the trickle charger on.

 

[TeeCat]

I might have to look into one of those.

I also wanted to install an oil pressure gauge at some point, but there seem to be varying schools of thought on whether it's needed - though I'm sure it can't hurt - but that seems like quite a project to me.

I'll keep you guys posted on how it goes with the new reg/rec and try to get some pics for those interested. It's too hot and humid here today to even look at that bike, though.

 

[XSLeo]

That gauge may be better, I like the analog gauges.
I have a more expensive gauge to replace my current $4.95 Harbor Frieght gauge. It may not bounce as much.

 

[TeeCat]

Guys, here we are:

Here's the new reg/rec. It mounts in the stock location, but on a bias. It does contact the top of the side cover, but not in a way that prevents a good fit of the latter, either visibly or functionally. You can see that I ran the ground from the bottom of the unit off the right bolt, along the main harness ground, and affixed it to the frame with the main ground. The reg/rec ground that I made has loops soldered on and shrink wrapped over.

Here's how I routed the wiring. Running it to the front like this, it's not quite long enough to be able to tuck the rectifier coupling in the rubber cover (to the left rear of the tool kit holder), but the wiring just doesn't seem to run as well to the rear of the holder because it exits the reg/rec pointing to the front. I still might try it again though, because there is a bolt that exits the bottom of the seat pan that contacts the wire loom right near where the wires enter the rectifier terminal. I covered the bolt with a little vacuum plug (I could shorten it, I suppose), but I can see the depression in the plastic loom already, and I don't want any wear-through. It's neat and clean, but I'm not 100% thrilled with it.

TC

 

[TeeCat]

Hey, guys...

See the way I routed the reg/rec wiring in the pic above? That split loom is pretty bulky, and I wanted to reduce that a little. Has anyone ever used the spiral loom? Seems like it might be less bulky, less messy than using tape, and could be the way to go.

Thanks -

TC

 

[PhatTony]

I use the spiral loom on most of my projects. It seems to snug up the wiring and seems less bulky. The only pain is if you have to add a wire later sometimes it has to be unwound.

 

[TeeCat]

Well, it might be worth trying for a small application like this... thanks!

 

[retiredgentleman]

I prefer an analog voltage gauge, and this inexpensive voltmeter from Walmart has worked perfectly for several years now. The pointer on the gauge is rock steady (at any speed) mostly because its rubber mounted. I placed a piece of rubber hose around the handlebars and then "tiewrapped" my metal mounting bracket to the rubber hose.

 

[TeeCat]

Hi, RG.

Yes, remember I installed one last year on your recommendation and with your assistance. I have not had a chance to do a proper road test to see if the needle is still "busy" after I installed my new solid state regulator/rectifier. I had thought that the old (original) reg/rec was causing my main fuse to blow, but I put grommets in the headlight bucket on Friday, and was unable to reproduce the symptoms on Saturday.

 

[machstang]

If you were to put the stock side covers back on over that reg would there be enough airflow? I want to put the covers back on my bike but I'm concerned about cooling. Also slightly unrelated. Is there enough airflow behind the stock covers to run my unifilters? They don't seem to touch the cover at all.