RD350 PMA Problem

Scotchmist

XS650 Enthusiast
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Hi all,

I've just finished installing a home-spun RD350-based PMA. I believe it's the same rotor and stator as the US Banshee. It uses a 5 wire three-phase reg/reg with 3 yellow wires, a red and a black. The three yellow wires are connected to the three wires from the stator, the the black wire to ground and the red wire to battery +ve.

After installing the PMA the bike will start and run but won't really idle and the throttle needs to be very gently applied or the bike will cut out. It sort of splutters at low revs if you try to snap the throttle. At higher revs it sounds like it's running fine. I've briefly tested it with a voltmeter and it makes about 12.5 volts at idle and about 13.5 at 3000 rpm.

To confirm, the bike ran fine before I swapped the charging system. Whilst the source of the problem could be a huge range of things I tend to blame the last thing I did.

My main question is; in simple terms how can the PMA be eliminated from the fault diagnosis? I'd like to run the bike in some kind total loss form to test whether the PMA is the problem. I've read a few references to doing it but none were specific as to what should be removed and what shouldn't.

Any help greatly appreciated.
 
To run the bike with a total loss ignition you electrically remove the charging system from the bike.
Before you try anything make sure your battery is fully charged.

My experience is with RD 350LC and RZ 350 alternators and reg/recs.

In your situation I personally would not just disconnect the wires from the alternator in case the lack of load causes a voltage spike that damages the stator windings or the regulator/rectifier. I would also not short the 3 stator wires together for the test as well.

Pull the rotor off the crank and disconnect wires to the battery and ground. That way there will be no voltage induced in the windings and there can be no possibility of a back feed through the reg/rec loading the battery.

Others with more experience may say that this is not necessary but I try to keep the smoke inside electrical stuff as much as possible.

Also 13.5V at 3000 rpm seems a bit low I think it should be around 14.5V check your connections especially the ground.

For reference and info RZ and LC reg/rec's have six wires so you have something different, not that that is a problem in itself. It's just that it's not a RZ or LC unit.
 
I might leave everything but the ignition hooked up as you have it. Hook just the ignition itself to a separate battery. Now the ignition runs off one battery. the rest off another and the PMA.
I agree with the 13.5 volts at 3000 rpms is low. 14.2 or so is perfect. 14.5 is almost to high. if 14.7 or higher is not good.
Leo
 
Scothmist do as Leo suggests it is a much better way of going about it. A lot less mucking about .
 
Hi all,

Thanks very much for the replies. I managed to figure it out. Looks like it was a dodgy battery. It held charge but clearly wasn't working under load. All sorted now. With the new battery the PMA makes 14v at idle and 14.7 at 3000rpm. No matter how high you rev it the revs never exceed 14.7v. Is this is safe level?
 
14.2 to 14.5 is considered ok. 14.7 is a bit high. Not burn anything up high but it can boil the water out of a regular battery. Some of those high tech batteries don't like voltages that high.
I might suggest keeping a close eye on your battery. I would also install a volt meter on your bike. I did. This way I can keep a close eye on the charging voltage. My 75 runs at 14.2 or .3. If it gets higher it might be a weak connection between the battery and regulator, weak ground or the regulator going bad. If low it could be the rotor, brushes stator or regulator. I run the stock system on my 75.
Leo
 
Just now I went to the shed and measured what my set up puts out (it is almost the same set up as you have).
14.27 V was the highest I saw on the meter. I also looked at a regulator I bought from a wrecker (who I know and trust) and he has written “Good 14.5V” on the back of it.

If it was my bike I would say job done and not worry too much about the overvoltage. However I also would keep an eye on the electrolyte level in the battery.

Also keep in mind that years ago you probably would not be able to measure the voltage that precisely with a home workshop grade analogue meter.
 
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