I don't see it right off here, but some values in the book, it's worth doing a conversion from metric yourself to check them because some of the conversions have been wrong. I think it might have somehow happened in the pdf process where they turned image text into searchable text.
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Rear Axle Torque for the '75
- Thread starter YamadudeXS650C
- Start date
I've been aware of this situation for some time, and have been waiting for someone to point out which ones were converted wrong.
I'm so lazy.
Preferred tool to use, 6 point socket
2nd best, 12 point socket
3rd best, box end wrench
4th tool, open end wrench, try to avoid this
5th tool, adjustable wrench, haven't used one in years
If your exhaust is only attached at the foot peg, you could add a few spacers, washers, to give you just enough room to use a BOX END WRENCH.
Scott
Maybe the neighbors have a 50 lb. kid that you can borrow?
2nd best, 12 point socket
3rd best, box end wrench
4th tool, open end wrench, try to avoid this
5th tool, adjustable wrench, haven't used one in years
If your exhaust is only attached at the foot peg, you could add a few spacers, washers, to give you just enough room to use a BOX END WRENCH.
Scott
Maybe the neighbors have a 50 lb. kid that you can borrow?
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Yes, I do that. I have a nifty little free conversion program I use. Out of the box, it's not set up to do torques but you can set it up in the "Custom" panel .....
This is conversions for the old style front caliper .....
This is conversions for the old style front caliper .....
And yes, as WER said, you should have a 27mm combination wrench. I'm surprised you don't. Besides the rear axle nut, it will also fit your oil drain plugs. MikesXS sells a nice one but it's way over-priced now that the new owners took over. It used to be a rather reasonable $7 or $8, now it's double that. You can find one cheaper and even better quality on eBay .....
http://www.ebay.com/itm/GearWrench-...270972&hash=item5ae216f44b:g:k4EAAOSwnNBXZGaK
http://www.ebay.com/itm/GearWrench-...270972&hash=item5ae216f44b:g:k4EAAOSwnNBXZGaK
I am very careful doing maintenance on my bike. I use both an in-lb and a ft-lb torque wrench for best accuracy. I use a torque wrench for just about every bolt or stud except for the rear axle and front axle. I have always just used my own feel for tightness. I've never had a rear or front axle come loose. If some one wants to use a torque wrench, I'd say 80 to 90 ft-lbs for the rear axle is a good range. Any torque over 90 ft-lbs is over kill for sure.
80 ft-lbs is a lot of torque.....................that's what I use for the wheel lugs on my car.
80 ft-lbs is a lot of torque.....................that's what I use for the wheel lugs on my car.
Also the 27 from the factory tool kit is great. Iv'e seen then on ebay. Very thin so you might be able to get it on your axle nut. Will take lots of hammering. The way I finally got my rear drain plug unstuck was with that and a 5 lb hammer. Other wrenches would have just absorbed the blows -- probably by breaking.
A 1-1/16" box end wrench works just fine, same for a 1-1/16" socket.
LIke 2Wheel, I use a 1 1/4 socket. For the drains, I pull out my 3/4 " drive set which has a mammoth breaker bar.
I use 82 on my wheel lugs.
I have this nagging sense that this thread is heading towards a "I have more tools than you do" competition.
Maybe I should go down to the garage and start counting......
Maybe I should go down to the garage and start counting......
Well, since we seem to be going there, I'll mention another I consider a "must have" if you own a 650, a 12mm offset box wrench. This gets mentioned when the topic of starter removal comes up. You need it to access some of the mounting bolts if the engine is still in the frame. Many probably frown upon buying one for this very occasional need but it will serve another even more frequent need - the lock nut on the clutch worm gear adjuster screw. That nut is inset into the cover some which makes it difficult to properly get an open end or normal box wrench on it. Basically, you'll use it all the time and wonder how you got along without it, lol. And you can get cheap ones for less than $3 .....
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Metric-6-32...hash=item2a825a2035:m:mKVALXGHWwmezKPnvnev1vg
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Metric-6-32...hash=item2a825a2035:m:mKVALXGHWwmezKPnvnev1vg
Alright 5Twins, you got me going with those offset wrenches. I don't have any. They look nice and the prices are pretty cheap, so ....
Here are the available combo sizes. If you were to choose 6 , which ones do you think are the most useful of these?
8-10mm. 9-11. 10-12. 12-14. 13-15
14-17. 17-19. 18-19. 19-22. 20-22
21-23. 22-24. 24-27. 25-28. 27-30
30-32
Here are the available combo sizes. If you were to choose 6 , which ones do you think are the most useful of these?
8-10mm. 9-11. 10-12. 12-14. 13-15
14-17. 17-19. 18-19. 19-22. 20-22
21-23. 22-24. 24-27. 25-28. 27-30
30-32
Bob, I have a set 8-9,10-11,12-13,14-15,16-17,18-19,20-22. Covers everything but the big 27mm stuff.
Actually picked up another set to carry some of the more common ones in the travel tool bag.
Actually picked up another set to carry some of the more common ones in the travel tool bag.
I don't think you even need 6. The sizes I'd get would be the 10-12, 14-17, and 19-22. Those are all sizes you will/can use on the 650. There's hardly any 13's on the bike, and no 15's or 18's. In the larger sizes, the 27 is about the only one you might use (drain plugs, rear axle) but I'll bet you already have sockets and regular wrenches for that. Besides, if your muffler is in the way, you won't be able to get the box on the axle nut.
Thanks guys! I appreciate it.
Now THAT is funny!!!!!
Sorry to be a bit late to this party - it is very interesting and I'd like to contribute a few points:
Sooo...to respond to 'Dude's original question, the key thing is to get that axle nut good and darned tight - and then line up the cotter pin hole - and make sure that the pin is in place and bent over in a secure fashion. If you stare at the mechanical arrangement on the XS650 rear axle - there is another mechanism that help the axle nut to secure the axle in-place, namely the two rear axle chain tensioners.
As long as everything is good & tight and the cotter pin is in-place - you should be fine.
As requested by either 2M or 5T (sorry but memory fails...), I will find my slide deck for that talk and post it as a .pdf file and then if anyone wants to ask questions...fire away!
Cheers,
Pete
- As noted above, torque is defined as a force at a distance, so you need to specify one of the two quantities to determine the other. For example: (108 ft-lb = 108 lb x 1 ft) - OR - (54 lb x 2 ft) - OR - (1296 lb x 1 inch) - OR - 1 lb x 1296 inches. There are literally an infinite number of combinations or forces and distances.
- I have seen some people use units of pressure (psi) when they mean torque - this is completely WRONG!!!
- Pressure = force/area and torque = force x distance. COMPLETELY DIFFERENT - like apple pie and roller skates.
- So - to use the adjustable wrench and fish scale idea (which is, in principle perfectly reasonable) - you need to determine the distance from the hole in the handle of the wrench to the centreline of the axle (in inches or feet) and then simply divide (108/feet) or (108/(inches/12)) to get the force in pounds required on the fish scale.
- When you use a threaded fastener, what you are really trying to do is generate an axial force to press the parts together - OR - prevent them from sliding over each other.
- The fastener torque is actually a very indirect way to generate and measure that axial force.
- 108 ft-lb (let alone 108.5 ft-lb) is, indeed, pretty damned tight;
- The smoothness of the threads on the bolt and the nut;
- The smoothness of the transverse bearing surface (like the facees of the washer or the underside the bolt head);
- Any lubrication applied to the threads or transverse bearing surface;
- etc.
Sooo...to respond to 'Dude's original question, the key thing is to get that axle nut good and darned tight - and then line up the cotter pin hole - and make sure that the pin is in place and bent over in a secure fashion. If you stare at the mechanical arrangement on the XS650 rear axle - there is another mechanism that help the axle nut to secure the axle in-place, namely the two rear axle chain tensioners.
As long as everything is good & tight and the cotter pin is in-place - you should be fine.
As requested by either 2M or 5T (sorry but memory fails...), I will find my slide deck for that talk and post it as a .pdf file and then if anyone wants to ask questions...fire away!
Cheers,
Pete
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5twins do you have those in the link? They just don't look very deep
I have plans to cut a 10mm ring spanner in half, weld a bit in the middle so it looks like a bicycle crank, and then tighten that 6mm bolt on the head between the intake ports. Then I'll have something really special to brag about!!
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