Rear fender question...

[TeeCat]

To any and all skilled metal fabbers here:

This, in my humble opinion, is one of the most aesthetically pleasing rear fenders I have ever seen. I'm not sure why... I think it's that I just love the way the lower "beaded" edge is partially linear, in contrast with the bulk of the fender's rounded contour, and provides a really pleasing "embrace" of the rear wheel/tire.

On my '73, the rear fender is in excellent shape. It had been "bobbed" by a PO by rotating it forward a bit to preserve the clean rearward edge. I remounted it more stably, though... that had been kind of shoddily done.

That said, I don't want to replace the fender, but I'd like to do a reversible experiment to try to mimic the side profile of this Big Bear fender. In much the same way that some classic cars had removable fender "skirts", I was thinking that I could mimic the Big Bear profile with a polished aluminum applique. Creating the actual applique would be easy, I think. The hard part would be creating or approximating that beautiful bead at the lower edge. If you look closely at the Big Bear fender, there is a very slight upper "ridge" that conforms to the upper contour of the fender; that's not a problem. That would be formed by the top edge of the applique. The bottom one is the challenge.

Does anyone know how that could be done by hand? I have made some small aluminum parts, but nothing with a 3D feature like that. I think, though, that where there is a will, there is a way.

Input welcome!

(This might seem dumb at first blush, but I was thinking that my gauge visors seemed dumb initially, and I could not be more pleased with those. So sometimes, you just have to ask these dumb questions and give it a shot.)

TC

 

[TeeCat]

Found an Eastwood bead roller that would likely work. Kinda pricey, though, unless you use it a fair bit.

TC

 

[I am Carbon]

If I had to try and make a fender like that I would make it in 3 pieces and weld it together the center and the sides. even the bead roller at HF is $180 after tax on sale
do you have an english wheel?

 

[TeeCat]

Carbon, no, unfortunately. That looks pretty involved, doesn't it? I suppose that's why this is "skilled labor" that I respect so much.

The "skirts" would just be flat and cut to conform to the existing fender... no welding as it would be an experiment and must be reversible. But that lower edge is the real challenge!

Below is a VERY rudimentary (no texture/coloration) digital profile of what I am visualizing. I could do better, but my more capable application is at home.

TC

 

[bbillington]

probably simpler to cruise ebay and find a fender you like, then modify to fit.

 

[I am Carbon]

well TC I'v been givin this some thought and then some more thoughtannnnnnnnnd maaaaaybe i'v come up wit sumtin. So without ferther adoooo

 

[TeeCat]

bbill... I actually started down that road, and it didn't really go anywhere... hence my current ruminations.

Carbon... I'm interested to see what you have! I can't see YT at work, so I'll look when I get home! Happy to stimulate your interest, though... thanks for noodling this so hard!

TC

 

[I am Carbon]

bbill... I actually started down that road, and it didn't really go anywhere... hence my current ruminations.

Carbon... I'm interested to see what you have! I can't see YT at work, so I'll look when I get home! Happy to stimulate your interest, though... thanks for noodling this so hard!

TC

Its cool a bead roller is the way to go if you can use one though

 

[scabber]

It's a cafe bike I don't think skirt looks right with the skirt. looks better open fender just my opinion.

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[TeeCat]

Hey, Carbon! Thank you so much for that! I appreciate the trouble! That's a practical approach, really, except for my lack of ability to weld. Still, I think it's an idea the bears more noodling to overcome that. One way: Remember the skirts on the '55 Chevy's? I don't think they had a bead per se... the edge of the metal just flared out a touch. That may be able to be done by hand, I'd think. But this is an idea to work with, thanks very much!

John... you may be right, too. Being a cafe-roadster, it might not look right if the "skirt" is too "deep". But I think a shallow one might provide a nice detail without obscuring any/too much of the tire/wheel. The example I made might have been a little too exaggerated. This might merit a cardboard mock up!

Thank you, guys!

TC

 

[ReycleBill]

Couldn't you fake the rolled edge by welding a piece of steel rod along the edge of the fender skirt?

 

[TeeCat]

Bill, I can't weld, sadly. I'd love to learn, but I wouldn't do it often enough to make the effort and expense worthwhile.

TC

 

[ReycleBill]

Liquid Steel? JB Weld? If all you're doing is an experiment either might do.

 

[TeeCat]

Hmmm... they're file-able/sandable too, right? Hmmmm...

 

[tonyc]

TC My 1963 BSA A-65 has full valanced fenders front and back.

 

[ReycleBill]

Hmmm... they're file-able/sandable too, right? Hmmmm...

Yep! I once built a stock for an Enfield 303 sniper rifle from JB Weld and blocks of wood. It's still around 30 years later and that 303 kicks like a SOB!

 

[TeeCat]

Bill, come to think of it, I repaired a broken tab on my left case cover with JB Weld, smoothed it, painted it, an it's still fine, and invisible!

Tony... like this? That's some pretty bike!

TC

 

[bobadame]

A bead roller would do this in a couple of minutes. There are other ways to do this with hand tools and a bit of MDF. Basicly you would cut a pattern from MDF in the shape of the basic lower part of the fender. The thickness of the pattern should be equal to 1/2 the circumfrence of the actual bead profile. Clamp your sheet metal blank over the MDF form. The sheet metal is cut a pattern thickness larger than the form. Begin tapping the edge over the form a little at a time all along the edge until you have turned it over 90 degrees. Now release the clamps, turn the blank over so the short flange is pointing up. Now you'll need a rod that is bent to match the contour. This rod can be several short pieces that you will turn the flange over. It's easier to do than to explain once you've made the simple tooling.

 

[TeeCat]

A bead roller would do this in a couple of minutes. There are other ways to do this with hand tools and a bit of MDF. Basicly you would cut a pattern from MDF in the shape of the basic lower part of the fender. The thickness of the pattern should be equal to 1/2 the circumfrence of the actual bead profile. Clamp your sheet metal blank over the MDF form. The sheet metal is cut a pattern thickness larger than the form. Begin tapping the edge over the form a little at a time all along the edge until you have turned it over 90 degrees. Now release the clamps, turn the blank over so the short flange is pointing up. Now you'll need a rod that is bent to match the contour. This rod can be several short pieces that you will turn the flange over. It's easier to do than to explain once you've made the simple tooling.

I think I see what you mean, bob. It might actually work with one or two variously shaped mallets and the MDF. I suspect that thin enough aluminum would stretch a bit. And despite the fact that the bead line would be a bit asymmetrical from front to rear, the MDF form could simply be flipped and used for each side. So, basically, we're talking about the first operation being to do away with a sharp leading edge, and the second to form the actual "flare" part of the bead.

I might actually have to make a cardboard mock up just to assuage my curiosity. At the very least, this could be yet another learning opportunity!

Thank you! I never thought of the MDF.

TC

 

[bobadame]

Yes, I think you've got it. One pattern will do both sides. Ideally it's best to sandwich the metal between the pattern and another piece, could be an identical pattern. This keeps the metal form puckering up as it's bent down. Try this with a couple of straight boards first just to get a feel of how it works. It's pretty simple. If you are even a little bit interested in sheet metal shaping, search out David Gardner's youtube videos.