I found this tip in the Yamaha Racing Tips Manual. You slot the top end studs so you can remove the top end with the engine still in the frame. Anyone here ever try this?
Agreed.I would bet that the engine is out and apart when the studs are notched.
On my 80 frame, there's plenty of clearance for the inner studs. The rocker box clearing the frame is another question. Just as a guess, the gap 'tween the box and frame looks to be about the same as the alignment bushings. Of course if one was to do this.... trimming a tad off the bushings would work.They also probably used Champion, Trackmaster and C&J frames where there is lots more room on between engine and frame.
Drag it outta the barn and get to it....One of these days...............
There might be some confusion here; this thread is dealing with studs that have already been freed from the crankcase and the adhesive removed.
In my fairly experienced opinion; you will NOT remove the studs from a stock motor with the head and cylinder still on the engine. To remove you have to heat the studs where they go into the crankcase. We ain't talking a match, play a propane torch over the stud pretty good. Some long socket extensions to get the extractor down near the base of the stud really helps.