Repaint dilemma

[gentlemanjim]

I bought 1 can of spraymax 2k clear it worked awesome!! Enough for 3 coats on the fuel tank side covers and lower panels. Supper gloss, flowed out with very little orange peel effect and the spray nozzel is quite unique large fan effect. I have confidence with this product to get a lot more creative on future paint projects.

I'll post a pic tomorrow - Thanks Mike MalloyM

 

[gentlemanjim]

Here's the pics of the finished product. I'm most pleased with the SprayMax 2k. I may color sand or buff out with rubbing compound some time in the future, but I don't think it's really necessary. I'm pretty much finished, maybe a Sargent seat job, better silencer and a low bar mounted Master cylinder. Finito

 

[yamaman]

Nice one Jimmie

 

[Bobber 12]

Anyone in the Minnesota area that need there tanks and fenders painted hit me up I work in a body shop by day and paint bikes by night. Boss lets me use the booth after hours for a little extra cash. single color base coat clear coat three parts you would be looking at about $150. Can do custom stuff as well. thing Im big in to now is real fire.

 

[Teebs]

Your Roadster looks great Jim. The new decals are excellent.

 

[nj1639]

Nice job all around there Jim.
The timing of the post is excellant. Having to redo my Standard tank. Stripped off a gazillions layers of paint to find the remnants of a once beautifull emerald? green.
I'm familiar with the duplicolor, now to find a close match to the origional color, a can of SprayMax 2K and a couple of xs650 vinyls in Baskerville italics.

 

[malloym]

How can something be the "real deal" clear in a spray can? The reason I say this is not the price or that it is actually available . . its because 2 part, cured, paints has a short pot life. They were harden in the paint gun after a couple hours. They chemically cure, not air dry. So how is it they can be put in a spray can? Well there are some high tech spray cans out there that allow for mix as it exits the can. I can only assume this is one of those. So, if it works and the quality is decent . . cool. But understand, once you activate it, that can cannot be stored, you must use it all. Still . . . I'd almost want to try it myself to see Still a consideration is the chemicals in the hardener. Its isos, which I suspect it must be, you need to be protected.
Now for others . . if you find painting very rewarding, getting a small gun and compressor will allow you to paint a lot more than a spray can will allow. If funds are tight, maybe a good x-mas present to ask someone for Once you have a gun and learn how to use it, you can do so much more.

See,,, this is exactly what I'm talking about.... shooting from the hip with 0 research... keep your coments to yourself...

jim glad you liked it.. I just ordered 4 cans. there epoxy rust cure primer is awesome as well.. I got 2 can of primer and 2 cans of clear.... I'll be doing my tank and fender in the coming days..

 

[650Skull]

Looks great jim wish i could paint as good.........guess that's the next thing i got learn to do.

I see where PetesPonies is coming from and he has been supportive and helpful with his knowledge and safety concerns are something to take on board.........i would be more than happy to be able to have painted the tank as well as jim has done.....like any thing it doesn't take long to do a good job, (relatively speaking), but the time it takes to go from a good job to a job without any blemishes, doubles the time it takes to do the good job.........I work with wood and have to contend with this problem in my work, the time and cost to the client doubles between a 90% finish and the 100% finish and the finish doesn't look all that much different between, (my classification), 90% and 100% to the untrained eye ................. though i may feel the job has not been done as well as i could be or i would like the customer is happy ..............Thats the thing. Yea

 

[gentlemanjim]

Thanks all for the input and advice. It feels good to finally have this puppy put to bed.

650skull - the painting was so very easy. a light coat let flas 5-10 minutes a medium wet coat let flash and a final wet coat. The spray nozzels on the Duplicolor are very good and the Spraymax is outstanding. I get heart palpatatons when I begin to paint, but it all went quite smoothly.

The gas cap didn't seal and when I stopped hard gas spalhed on the tank. Wiped it off and the brilliant shine was still there. Spaymax saved me from commiting suicide or taking my revolver to the bike.

 

[PetesPonies]

Nice color there! Now there's some definite orange peel and a tank is so small its easy to remove. As long as there's enough clear on it, some wet sanding and buffing will take it to another level.

 

[650Skull]

The only thing i am used to painting out of a can, with a fly spray nozzle, are pieces of iron with a 3 coat anti rust system , Live next to the beach............well one street back actually ............. so no clear coats or anything around here and i live at least 140 ks away from any chance of being be able to get cheap cans...bloody locals charge a fortune for thing..........Ill check out the net and see whats available over here

 

[gentlemanjim]

The only thing i am used to painting out of a can, with a fly spray nozzle, are pieces of iron with a 3 coat anti rust system , Live next to the beach............well one street back actually ............. so no clear coats or anything around here and i live at least 140 ks away from any chance of being be able to get cheap cans...bloody locals charge a fortune for thing..........Ill check out the net and see whats available over here

Did you go here? http://www.repaintsupply.com/pd_2_part_2k_aerosol.cfm

 

[650Skull]

I got side tracked looking for gel pads..i am redesigning and rebuilding the stock Special seat for my bike incorporating some gel.

Need a paint store in Australia

 

[wideload]

Nice color there! Now there's some definite orange peel and a tank is so small its easy to remove. As long as there's enough clear on it, some wet sanding and buffing will take it to another level.

I am inspired to try this myself. You say wet sanding the clear coat will minimize the orange peel - would you use 1200 wet/dry? How about the buffing you mention - what materials and technique would you recommend?

So, let see if I have this right: Three coats of color, each thicker and wetter than the previous coat with short dry times between. No sanding between color coats. A short dry time before clear Spraymax over the color coats. Wet sand, then buff. Sound right?

 

[gentlemanjim]

Yes you are correct. I'd use 1,000 -1500 and lastly 2000 wet and dry. Gentley sanding at a diagonal to eachother. Then buff with a foam buffing wheel at moderate speed just above slow with white rubbing compound.

I use this polisher Harbor Freight around $35.00. You could probably use an orbital polisher as well.

 

[PetesPonies]

close, but not exactly. When you spray BC/CC there is not getting the base ( color ) on thicker and wetter. Actually not reason to put it on wet at all. You are not trying to achieve a shine. The paint should look semi gloss in most instances and actually dull sometimes. I put the first coat on a bit lighter, but not much. The second and third coat are about the same, sometimes the third coat is even lighter just getting the metallic ( if there is any ) to lay consistent and even . Then your three coats of clear. When its time to color sand,, the grit is determined most times by what you are trying to do. If there are not problems and just peel, 1200 - 1500 is used. You could use both. Some people even go higher . . . but with the buffing material I use, I stop at 1500. I use a wool pad with a material you must buy online. It is the best buffing material I have ever used. I buff until it begins to go away, then switch to a foam pad. No need to change materials, use the same ( which is an added benefit ). This material is completely swirl free even black colors. It really is worth using over the locally available buffing materials. It is called Sure Finish. You could use other material, but after using many I will never use anything else.

http://autobodystore.net/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=SFQ&Category_Code=M3

 

[gordonscott]

Bike looks great Jim! ride and enjoy

 

[wideload]

Thanks for the summary on the paint and finish process guys!

Now if I could find a nice concise set of instructions on polishing the aluminum case covers to a very shiny finish, I would try that too. Seems to be a hundred opinions about material and technique (and just as many downsides to each.

OOPS I think that is stealing the thread - right? I will post some questions somewhere else.

 

[kent_in_kc]

Polishing aluminum ain't hard. Just start, you can't really screw it up. Work from coarse to lighter polishing compounds with your buffer, just like polishing paint. Track down so smallish buffing heads (Harbor Freight, etc.) for nooks and crannies.

Take your time. You'll be surprised and the results will really set off your cool paint job.

 

[gentlemanjim]

You might want to wet sand a bit first 320, 400, 600 and then buff.

I bought a flexible shaft put it in a drill motor, chucked a buffing wheel and went to town. No heavy bulky drill to hold an you can get into tighter places. If you attach it to an AC motor all the better. Harbor freight has the set up, but a bit pricey even for them.