Rev counter jumping/not charging

With brushes removed, you effectively remove the alternator from the electrical system. A charged battery should run total loss for 200 miles if lights aren’t burning.
 
If you have the original voltage regulator, it is easily replace by a solid state regulator. VR115 IIRC. I Had charging issues on my "New to me XS650" and the denizens here walked me through replacing it. $15 new (er) technology is a joy.
+1 (+100) on fitting a $10 1/2" x 1 1/4 digital voltmeter to monitor the state of your charging system. Expect ~1/2 volt loss through your main wire and key switch.
 
I'm still here for now. I won't be setting off home until Tuesday morning, but I've got a spare battery & I'm supremely confident!

Thanks for all the help guys!
 
The brainworms got the better of me. I sat up last night googling how to test various stuff on the charging system.

Up at 5:30 this morning & tested the rotor. Not good. 1 ohm between the 2 rings.
I checked that against the 2 bikes, plus spare engine that Chris has (all early model bikes, so boot compatible to my '80) & they all read between 4.5 & 5.5.

Looks like Marty was dead on the money & I'll be ordering a new rotor.
 
The brainworms got the better of me. I sat up last night googling how to test various stuff on the charging system.

Up at 5:30 this morning & tested the rotor. Not good. 1 ohm between the 2 rings.
I checked that against the 2 bikes, plus spare engine that Chris has (all early model bikes, so boot compatible to my '80) & they all read between 4.5 & 5.5.

Looks like Marty was dead on the money & I'll be ordering a new rotor.
Do not order a new rotor! Send the bad one to @Jim for rewind. There’s also Custom Rewind in Alabama. The new rotors are junk right out of the box.

 
YOU WILL NEED TO BUY A ROTOR PULLER.

I believe it’s fine to get one from any XS650 parts vendor. MikesXS and the like are pretty fast.
 
For future reference, if anyone else has this issue, you can ride at least 285 miles just on a charged battery, as long as the head & tail lights are unplugged & the stator brushes removed.
It still started first kick when i got home, but I'm too tired to put the meter on it! I reckon it's probably good for at least 350 though, judging by the brightness of the neutral light (Science! 😃)
 
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Getting to ride across this was the highlight of the trip & I couldn't have done it without y'all's help.

10 points if you can name it! 😁
 
Hmmm looks like the Wabash Canonball Bridge, but that's up in IN:umm:

Agree with JP. Looks like the Wabash Canonball Bridge.

10 points apiece gentlemen!
It's technically right on the IN/IL state line.
220 mile, highly convoluted round trip from Chris's place in Marengo, involving far too many dusty gravel roads, several fly blown pumpkin patches & an accidental trip through a corn field (don't ask)
 
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Oh, so the rotor went south after all that?
 
Oh, so the rotor went south after all that?
My guess is that it crapped out somewhere within my first 100 miles after plugging in my phone cable at a gas station & the head & taillight, plus feed back to the charging system just killed the battery. I couldn't find fault with the reg/rec & the battery is taking & holding a charge. Brushes are still great too.
I do have an idea what wiped out the rotor, but it's only a theory.
When i wired the phone charger in, i accidentally got the terminals switched (previous owner used a red wire for the battery ground) When i came to plug in the USB cable, the outer surface of the small USB3 plug was positively charged & i shorted it out to the frame. It may be nothing to do with it, but I'm thinking that shorting the battery directly to ground might have toasted it. I'm just thankful it didn't fry the CDI unit (or whatever it has) Like i say though...... witchcraft.
 
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